JasonG

Expect to wallow on the approach, based on ski conditions yesterday. North facing stuff is very unconsolidated making for great skiing, and bad post holing. Didn't look at Pandome, but would imagine it would be quite snowy. There is a ton of snow at Baker right now, and more on the way this weekend.

No worries. I certainly appreciate all the hard work that goes into maintaining the site, esp. since this isn't your real gig. When cc.com goes down, it just serves as a reminder that I need to get a life. I need that every now and again.

Wow, talk about some wicked ski terrain!

I would take Sol's word for it, he knows that neck of the woods better than most. The route he and Martins put up is supposed to be quite excellent and a good alternative to the original. The approach alone is classic, and there is a bunch to do back in there, esp. if you head over to the big face on Dome. If you are looking for something a bit easier, the Beckey line climber's right of the west gully between the Gunsights looks amazing. We were traveling too light to give it a shot, but rock quality looked to be superb. We were kicking ourselves.

I think the Dallas Memorial Clean up is scheduled for around 4/21 or so this year (hasn't been finalized yet). I will try to remember and put it in the events forum when it is nailed down. It would be great if a bunch of folks came out to help -last year we had a good crew out there. Thanks for getting a jump start on it, Dan, your efforts are much appreciated! If folks do see such extreme cases of littering, please let Anacortes Parks and Recreation know ASAP. Contact Jonn Lunsford: jonnl at cityofanacortes dot org (360) 299-1953 I have to say that is some of the worst littering I have heard of up there in recent years. Disgusting.

This is bare bones, but for around $200 will get the job done (digital, 3 antennae also). Pretty good deal on sale at quite a few places online.... http://www.ortovox.com/avalanche-transceivers/patroller-digital-2 Or, my personal favorite, the Mammut Element Barryvox (more money and a better interface/features): http://www.mammut.ch/en/productDetail/231000370_v_1012/ELEMENT+Barryvox.html

I think the key is also if there is any sort of open slope above where things can get moving. I haven't ever seen avalanche carnage (busted or damaged timber)on slopes that were heavily treed all the way to the ridgeline. Also I think Gary and other's comments on TAY match my experience skiing trees on higher danger days. If the canopy is closed, and there aren't open areas, I haven't ever seen anything dangerous kick off, even during major avi cycles. Where there are openings, however, watch out.

A question for Kurt- Is the 6mm cord you use for your alpine cordelette the standard (i.e. non spectra) type? And if so, do you find that it is strong enough to use for anchor building purposes (as opposed to rap anchors only)? Thanks for any info!

So is it the use of the dyneema that causes the fast wear, UV, or do they degrade quickly over time regardless?

Blake brings up some good points. I do think though that on easy alpine objectives (blocky mid fifth class), a cordelette comes in very handy for a couple reasons. One, it is super fast to sling a big block or horn (often too big for a double sling) and bring the second up with minimal fiddling with a gear anchor. Two, this frees up the leader to have the full amount of gear for the next pitch. On these climbs the rack is often meager, and using up gear at the belays can limit the leader on the next pitch (or shorten an upcoming simul block). That said, I could probably ditch the daisy....old habit I guess.

My experience over the years is that often times "considerable" forecasts turn out to be overly conservative and the stability is much better than predicted. Of course, it is that one time that gets you.

You have the dog working on it too?

Whoah. Strong work! And, like Ryan, I think the name is fitting and clever. Lowell is going to have to work to keep up with your new descents!

Maybe I missed it in all the mayhem, but did anyone link to Steph's analysis? Although she has some interesting conclusions, my personal experience that alpine climbing is significantly more dangerous than driving.

I have to say I was surprised to see the odds of death by suicide. A lot higher than I expected.

Be careful, it doesn't look like there is a window during your dates: http://www.wrh.noaa.gov/sew/get.php?wfo=sew&pil=REC&sid=SEW

Wait, they were on an old road?? That could be an honest mistake, as it is a bit odd to have roads (even old grades) in a wilderness area. Sort of defeats the whole "untrammeled by man" thing....

I hope you got license plates at the TH/road end (and photos of the sledders/sleds)....without that, enforcement can't really do much, if anything. Even if you did get plates, I think the courts need law enforcement to witness the transgression (where there isn't direct evidence like good photos/video showing the location of trespass) to throw the book at them. For example, with poached fish and/or game, enforcement needs to find an illegally retained dead animal in someone's possession in order to prosecute (if they didn't catch them in the act of poaching it). Without direct evidence, and assuming they can find the folks in question, the authorities could at least issue a warning, or keep and eye on the access in that area though. Thanks for turning them in!

Located in Mount Vernon, Wa.

-Ski mountaineering tips and tricks? We have some seriously experienced folks around that could make this enlightening. -Second the article on kiddos and climbing/outdoors stuff -Climbing and high quality photography. Garrett Grove? -Tutorial on some of the online weather products available thru the UW Atmos dept.?

WOW! What a great turnout tonight for the show. Thanks again to Steph and John for coming out and dazzling us with great stories and images. John signed and sold every copy he brought, for good reason- it's incredible. Buy John's book!!!!

Was it as warm as it looked? I'm jealous, my winter experiences high on Rainier were filled with cold suffering. Nice work, and way to take advantage of the window!

Hey everybody, this it TOMORROW night! Hope to see a bunch of folks there. If you already have a book, feel free to bring it for John to sign. Books will also be for sale at the show, with proceeds going to benefit the Skagit Alpine Club.

Wow, that is cool. Your photo?

Have fun guys!! I will need to get back out on the rock with you all once the ski season starts to wane. . ..the pull of the snow is too strong right now.