JasonG

This was a new one for me: As seen this past weekend at the Castle Rock trailhead. I guess the internet still isn't king for these types of public eye pokes.

Beautiful, thanks Luke!

Ten years.

All route names must be approved by the Captain!

You don't need to tell me that, my wife is from Stony Brook! For anyone like yourself, Long Island is pretty bad. I hope you don't have too much more time there.

That damn polygamist, Layton is such a spirit-breaker.

Agreed. But in those situations I think a sat. phone makes the most sense.

Colin and Dylan's climb is pretty cool and all, but what I am really interested in is whether or not John was successful in his quest from all those years ago:

Amazing.

I guess it depends on your style (and how cheap a bastard you are). Personally, I like having something that I only plan to trigger when death or serious injury is at my doorstep. My family knows that unless they get a call from USMCC, I'm either OK or the entire party is dead and there is nothing they can do about it. I suppose that doesn't work for some though.

Caveman ski pole. He carried it all the way to the rap!

Trip: Eldorado - NW Couloir Date: 3/1/2015 Trip Report: This is a route that I've thought about almost as long as I've been climbing, but it is also one that's been difficult to find in good shape. I tried half-heartedly a few times in the fall many years ago but then it sort of slipped off the radar until this present winter (that wasn't). Suddenly, alpine conditions and weather were some of the best we've seen in years (and the worst ski conditions), and I had a hall pass and willing partners in Chuck and Tim. I guess it was time to slog back up to the Inspiration and see how conditions were. Tim, ever the fit young man, thought my plan of a two day climb was a bit banal for a climber of his ilk (I'm reading between the lines), and planned to meet us at the base of the east ridge of Eldo at 0630 Sunday morning. Chuck and I did the predictably grinding approach on Saturday and had plenty of time to shiver, melt snow, and pretend to sleep while our betamid flapped incessantly in the stiff NW wind. I think Tim had the right idea and sure enough he strolled into our camp only a few minutes late, and ready to get it done. Amazing! Thanks to Dave Burdick, the approach to this climb is quite a bit easier than described in Nelson, and after a bit of walking and a 60m rap we were on the glacier only a couple hundred yards from the base of the route. Maybe an hour from camp? Once on route, there wasn't much of the straightforward steep snow climbing you would think this route would offer in the winter. Though the climb is relatively short (~5p,300m?), steep bulges, aereated ice, and funky snow kept us on our toes (even if we couldn't feel them). Chuck was up for the challenge and led the harder sections with style, leaving the wallowing and funky snow to the choss dawgs. The end of difficulties is only about a rope length from the summit, and once we sorted gear, we made the quick walk to the top- maybe about 7 hours after leaving camp? The wind was rising and the sun had gone so we didn't linger, heading back to camp and the flask of Hunter without delay. So many of the other high peaks in the North Cascades are involved to get off of that it was a treat to stroll unroped to the bivy. All that remained was to finish the whiskey, pack up and trudge down. Impressively, Tim stayed out in front the whole way and we made it to the car about 10 hours after leaving camp that morning (14-15 hour day for Tim). After getting home, I went took out the trash and it was already lightly raining in the Skagit. For some reason that always makes me smile. It is a great route in a spectacular position; I can see why it made it in the Select guide. If you find a stick on the Inspiration this summer, you can thank Chuck: We ran into Jason4 and Krissy up there, and I couldn't resist taking a Japanese tourist photo of them: Jason and Krissy heading down after climbing the east ridge as a day trip: Gear Notes: two tools, helmet, screws, pickets, crampons Approach Notes: One 60m rap from Eldo-Dean's Spire col off two pins (lowest col from Eldo summit). There is supposedly two 30m raps, but we didn't see the second station (buried?). A short walk takes you to the base of the route. Rope up on the glacier, there be cracks/'schrunds.

Wow, that sounds full value. Glad that the cornices all behaved. Do you have an overview photo of the cirque where you could draw your line? I'm not familiar with the area, but have been meaning to check it out.

I'm more impressed that he got Lowell to start a topic in Spray! I'm pretty sure that is unprecedented.

Whew. That was close. Young Daniel pulled himself out of the lion's den just in time. Getting dressed down on CC.com is some serious business.

Is Vesper one of the 12 peaks? Is that why you are so angry?

You were probably at the right spot. You have to find the narrow slot that will spit you on the west side of the summit ridge. When I was standing on the nub before the false summit I thought for sure that we were too high and left. You have to drop into the notch and wiggle your way west and around the false summit. It looks improbable from above, but works great.

Great comments all. Jake, please be sure to post back when you get the location SNAFU addressed with the manufacturer.

Good point. Typically once they go off they keep transmitting location, for up to 24 hours. Maybe the location updates periodically?

Glad you made it out safe, and thanks for having the guts to post about it here. I think you are learning the right things about some extras that could have made life a lot better. A foam pad, lightweight puffy pants and space blanket are cheap insurance in the winter. As are some handwarmer packs. Since it sounds like you never wanted to push the button, does Gerrit now realize that you were most likely right? Also, I'm curious, was it a SPOT or a true PLB? The location SNAFU makes me think it was the former.

The real Pat has been around here since 2010? You never know what you will learn in Spray.

Damn Brett, that looks like an amazing trip! I'm certainly jealous, looks like you hit the season for the ages. And you had fun with the wife, which is the most important part.

Sorry to mislead you, I guess the warmth has returned!

Thanks for posting up Monte, have an anecdotes from the FA?

Thanks! That's Sloan in the last photo, will try and add some captions in the next few days.