JasonG

Trip: Whitechuck - Standard Date: 2/21/2015 Trip Report: What a fun scramble! Conditions are likely still quite good on Whitechuck, though this report is from a couple weekends ago. Not surprisingly you can drive to over 4K, which is not quite to the start of the summer climber's trail. The route itself is exposed, but scenic and not very long, making for a perfect winter day trip. Clouds added to the drama and feeling of traversing over the abyss, but we still had excellent views for much of the day. We didn't bring a rope and didn't necessarily feel the need for one, but you certainly don't want to fall! Thanks to Kit and Trent for another excellent adventure in the North Cascades! Gear Notes: Steel crampons, axe, second tool, helmet. Approach Notes: Don't follow the Beckey description for driving directions. You want to drive 2435 until you can't go any farther.

It didn't look like it was in "easy" shape by any means this past weekend. But, Dan's right, it is probably as good as it is going to get.

Good to see you guys up there! I will hopefully get up a TR this week....We had a good and challenging time.

I always appreciate your adventures and TRs! It is amazing the variety this world has to offer.

Great photos!

You're right Luke, TRs aren't the place for this debate, and you were well within the law. You shouldn't feel the need to remove the video. I started a thread over in access issues.

Yikes, those numbers scare me. A fine climb, thanks guys!

More detail on plane flights over wilderness areas, pretty interesting: http://www.aneclecticmind.com/2012/12/20/the-rules-about-flying-over-wilderness-areas/

Yep, the drones are cool in the Rec. area as are sleds. I was just getting at that planes are allowed to fly over wilderness areas while drones are not. I feel this is a good distinction, but you're right that they aren't silent.

I was curious so did a bit of digging. Maybe you all know this already. Here is the USFS stance for wilderness areas and drones: Motorized and mechanized equipment are not allowed, including drones (see below), bicycles, carts, wagons, chainsaws, hang gliders and off-road vehicles and other wheeled vehicles. Landing aircraft, air dropping or picking up supplies, materials or people are prohibited. Public use of drones (including quadcopters, model aircraft and other unmanned aerial systems) is increasing in popularity. However, drones are motorized equipment and are prohibited in wilderness. Please help us protect wilderness character by leaving your drone at home when you visit a congressionally designated wilderness area. Federal regulation 36 CFR 261 18a states that the following are prohibited in a National Forest Wilderness:(a) Possessing or using a motor vehicle, motorboat or motorized equipment except as authorized by Federal Law or regulation.(b) Possessing or using a hang glider or bicycle.© Landing of aircraft, or dropping or picking up of any material, supplies, or person by means of aircraft, including a helicopter. From: http://www.fs.usda.gov/detail/mbs/passes-permits/?cid=stelprdb5405234 And drones are a no-no in national parks as well: http://home.nps.gov/news/release.htm?id=1601 Maybe this will be a topic for the updated NW Forest Plan?

Huh? Scurlock's plane is just another drone? The Man doesn't think so. Nice video BTW.

YEAH!!!!! That is an impressive climb, glad you survived the topout. And Dan, Colin climbed it with someone awhile back.....

And here I was just thinking I'd gladly trade a few clear cuts for better road access and some trail maintenance dollars. Not pushing the old grades farther up valleys mind you, but the reprod. is getting pretty tall these days....

Cut the list down and ride yer bikes!

Would you consider Brian Williams a "Libtard"?

Wow, thanks for the gripping detail. I'm glad you guys are in relatively good shape, that was a long fall. I hope you don't mind a couple questions to better learn from this accident.... 1. How were the pickets set? 2. What was the general density of the snow in which they were placed? Rest up!

Nevermind

I should clarify that walking the cable is the way to go if you don't have a pulley that fits on the cable (I didn't). A fat pulley would be awesome.

Jay- What did you find was the best option? Josh's accident has got me thinking....

If you have five days I think I would head to the N. Cascades and ski the Boulder on Baker and the Sulphide on Shuksan. Two classic summits and one decent (sulphide) and one terrific (Boulder) ski descent. Of course if you are dialed in and the weather is perfect you would still have time to ski the SW chutes (lots of driving though). The Ptarmigan will involve a lot of grunt work and not much in the way of ski descents. Scenery is hard to beat, however. I agree that the Magic S and Forbidden tours are iffy unless the winter magically turns around. It is quite grim at the lower elevations of both of those tours right now.

FYI, the fat cable is no more than 25mm. I clipped a large belay biner over it that wouldn't clip onto something more than 1". I'm pretty sure it is 7/8th cable, which is ~23mm. Walking the fat cable is the way to go for sure (drag your pack on the fat cable behind), though it still gets your attention and clipping around the balls/cones on the small cable isn't totally trivial when you are bouncing around. Marc- As we can see from your season down there (TR?), you aren't quite like the rest of us!

I think Fred may be including many of the long D-town routes in the new edition. MattP is coordinating the beta for him, I think. Good points on clarifications on existing routes. Fred knows there are errors throughout the edition and wants corrections. I will tell him to get in touch with Pete. Keep the suggestions coming!

Why is Sunset ridge on Rainier in condition less often than most other routes on the mountain? That surprises me.

Ain't that the truth!!

Great effort, and good work surviving! Thanks for the mere-mortal write up about the climbing in Patagonia. Pretty pictures leave a lot of that out.