JasonG

It's all gonna burn, Wenatchee style.

Truly don't care, or don't think it will make a difference?

Great trip and some spectacular pictures! My theory on the goats- minerals.

Sweet.

Wow. This is the year for the Slesse casual approach.

I'm not sure how it looks right now, but when Steve and I were in there a couple summers ago it looked pretty spicy to down climb from the raps with at least few tricky crevasses to negotiate (would need to go back and look at my photos to refresh my memory exactly). As the glaciers are continuing to thin in there I think it isn't as straightforward as in years past. But maybe it was always a bit spicy?

And no snow in the Liberty Concord gully. Significant snow remains in the chockstone gully on NEWS.

That is the proper way to do it, good for you guys! Well, not the epic part, but way to stay true to your mission. Curt and I were not so dedicated.

That is moving! Nice work, a spectacular route.

NW Arete of?? (Mt Sir Donald? It looks similar...) Well, maybe I should have said the NW face of Forbidden . An overlooked classic on the peak. Not easy to get to though!

Trip: Liberty Bell Group - Liberty Traverse Date: 6/13/2015 Trip Report: After a few years of wondering, Curt and I tackled the easy version of the Liberty traverse (Beckey rte., NF concord, NF Lexington, Chockstone on NEWS, South Arete of SEWS) a couple weekends ago in a relaxed 13 hour day from the cars. This is a really fun link up, even more so because it is quite adjustable to the ambition level of the group. We had hoped to finish on the SW buttress of SEWS, but the late hour and fatigue made the SA a lot more attractive. Even in the "light" form I think it is something like 18 guidebook pitches and 2000' of climbing, but all at the very moderate grade of 5.7 and under. Graupel showers throughout the afternoon added to the drama, but the rock never got too wet. Still, it felt like an accomplishment, and the beer at the car tasted quite good. My one bit of advice is to get an early start if you plan on beginning on the Beckey route- we narrowly beat out the hordes to start the day, though there are many other options should the Beckey rte. be jammed. The Liberty Traverse is a fine weekend warrior link up, and highly recommended! The high one, two, three, four, and five seemed like a good idea, but the photos look a bit awkward..... Gear Notes: Listen to Ian. Approach Notes: Easy as can be

2 miles? My neighbors climbed it a couple weeks ago. Trail is in great shape.

How long ago did you do Bonanza Jim? I think it has cleaned up some- I thought it was pretty solid, considering Beckey's description.

"Well you're my friend (It's what you told me) And can you see (What's inside of me) Many times We've been out drinking And many times We've shared our thoughts But did you ever, ever notice The kind of thoughts I got Well you know I have a love A love for everyone I know And you know I have a drive To live I won't let go But can you see it's opposition Comes a-rising up sometimes That it's dreadful and position Comes blacking in my mind And that I see a darkness And that I see a darkness And that I see a darkness And that I see a darkness And did you know how much I love you Is a hope that somehow you you Can save me from this darkness Well I hope that someday, buddy We have peace in our lives Together or apart Alone or with our wives That we can stop our whoring And pull the smiles inside And light it up forever And never go to sleep My best unbeaten brother This isn't all I see Oh no I see a darkness Oh no I see a darkness Oh no I see a darkness Oh no I see a darkness And did you know how much I love you Is a hope that somehow you you Can save me from this darkness"

Only in Seattle.

"The world is a vampire, sent to drain Secret destroyers, hold you up to the flames And what do I get, for my pain? Betrayed desires, and a piece of the game Even though I know - I suppose I'll show All my cool and cold - like old job Despite all my rage I am still just a rat in a cage Despite all my rage I am still just a rat in a cage Then someone will say what is lost can never be saved Despite all my rage I am still just a rat in a cage Now I'm naked, nothing but an animal"

Damn. I would like to climb sinister again, if only to see the view, but I'm not going to climb it in a day, that's for sure. Sheesh. Juan- That's a brutally long weekend, but at least you're old.

Luke- You went from the TH to the summit of Sinister in a 12 hour push?

You guys are nuts! That is a crazy long weekend trip, impressive!! Glad to hear that the Bachelor creek trail is getting some love, I was worried that it would slide into oblivion. It's been a dozen years, probably time to do the Ptarmigan again!

Getting to the start of the NR isn't the problem, it is finding the crossing to the Moraine Lake side that is much trickier. The NR notch is the most obvious and easiest looking place to access where the glacier comes close to the ridge. Such a good route! Now you are ready for the NW arete.....

One of these days I'm going to have to go out to Easy ridge on a backpacking trip, so scenic. Thanks for the report!

Geez, that is a lot of climbing in a few days. Excellent report as always Steph, glad to see you're still going full bore.

I tend to think Whitehorse is best in May or early June, and that is in a normal snow year. The snow may be soft, but you can often kick steps right up on to the summit and never touch rock. Bonus points for the wicked fast glissade right off the summit.

Wait until next spring when Lone Tree Pass is snow covered. The summit is easier to attain, and the whole trip more enjoyable.

Well said Gene.