Jump to content

lazzara

Members
  • Content count

    66
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

0 Neutral

About lazzara

  • Rank
    journeyman
  • Birthday 11/30/1999

Converted

  • Homepage
    leelazzara.blogspot.com
  • Location
    B'ham/SLC
  1. Brand new - never used - size medium Gregory Denali 75L.All the bells and whistles you could ever hope for in a mountaineering pack.Retails new ~$350 give or take . . . No shipping out of town, no weird deals - meet in Bellingham only for cash payment . . . Photos @: https://bellingham.craigslist.org/spo/d/gregory-denali-75l-new-tags/6556301960.html
  2. La Sportiva Trango Ice - size 43 - $150 Great ice specific boot - gaiter built into boot upper. Used but in great shape - boots only used in snow/ice conditions so very little sole wear - minor snags on inside of both integral gaiters. Black Diamond #5 Camalot (old style - sizing between new style #5 and #6) + Big Bro #4 (protects 7.5" to 12") - $140 for both - each used only a handful of times - selling as set, not individually . . . Petzl Adjama harness - size M/L - $40 (new) photos @ bellingham.craigslist.org/spo/5387848818.html
  3. Some more photos from the summer and a feeble attempt at some wit here: http://leelazzara.blogspot.com/
  4. Trip: Bernese Oberland - Eiger - Mittellegi Date: 8/6/2015 Trip Report: Life is full of trade-offs . . . you don't get something for nothing . . . insert some other droll cliché here. Alpine climbing in Europe is no different. The camping gear you don't carry is sometimes offset by some random dude snoring in your face at the hut. The food you don't have to buy and pack is sometimes replaced by marginal soup, unidentifiable meat and a worthless breakfast. If you don't eat dairy you are kind of hosed. No gluten or carbs? Fully hosed! That approach you float over in the tram, gondola, chairlift or train (or all four in the same trip)? - probably more expensive than driving your Honda Civic to the Valley from Portland, OR. Oh yeah, and everybody over here climbs too so the idea of having some uber-classic, historical route all to yourself is as likely as . . something else that is not very likely. That being said sometimes the hut is beautiful, modern and empty, the food awesome and the climbing fully inspiring and worth it - crowd or no crowd. After five weeks of work in the Alps peppered with some climbing for fun here and there, I had two days to kill before my flight from Geneva. Two days of good weather were in the forecast and the Mittellegi was reputed to only take an afternoon and a morning (plus a two hour train ride on either side). Having made climbs of the Mont Blanc (White Mountain for the literal) and the Hornli on the Matterhorn (Meadow Mountain) in the proceeding weeks, the Alps Trilogy was within reach! But only if we could navigate our way to start of the climb . . . Eiger, Monch and Jungfrau from Kliene Scheidegg Step #1 - Get fully bitched out by the hotel desk attendant where my partners were staying because I didn’t say good morning to her – not kidding. Classic Swiss . . . but I will always say "Guten Morgen" from now on Step #2 – Train from Interlaken Ost to Eismeer Station literally inside the South Ridge of the Eiger Interlaken Ost Eismeer Station chaos Step #3 – Find and descend tunnel to glacier. Feel for a moment like you are in some documentary style horror flick. [video:vimeo] Tunnel exit and downclimb to glacier Step #4 – Cross glacier, don’t get crushed by seracs Step #5 – Climb a few pitches of 5.7 limestone with wet boots with 4 other teams at the same time 4 rope teams, 1 ring bolt anchor, no problem Step #6 – Traverse ledges of uber choss to Mittellegi Hut Step #7 – Eat soup, buy multiple ½ liter bottles of water at 5 francs a pop, force down rice with meat in gravy Home is where the hut is Evening cloud play Step #8 – Sleep, kind of. Wake up in middle of night to take a leak off the ridge and realize that you could fall thousands of feet off the mountain wearing only boxers and socks. Step #9 – Fake your way through 4am breakfast with instant coffee. Step out of hut, onto ridge and realize you will be climbing with thousands of feet of exposure from now through the rest of the day. Follow trail of crampon scratch marks and fixed ropes to summit. Most of the route was non-descript limestone climbing by headlamp - anything over 5.6 has a fat fixed boat rope pinned to the rock with metal stanchions Route finding clues for those who have problems following the obvious ridge Crowd control is achieved by the fact the hut only sleeps 36 - or 40 in a pinch when folks with no reservation show up as we found out. The local Grindelwald guides have right of way, then the visiting guided teams, then everybody else. We got totally smoked by the local guides but found a nice pace about in the middle of the visiting guide peloton. Though this system seems beyond comprehension by North American standards, it actually works pretty well. The local guides are going to cruise the route since they've done it countless times and they want to get home early. On the other hand some of the unguided teams were hours behind - probably because they were trying to place gear where there was none and simul-climb through terrain that was more swiftly managed with short pitches and terrain belays. The managed departure from the hut kind of sorts folks out before they get on route. It aids in preventing some of the on route bottlenecks and some frustrations as well. Another team rapping from mid-ridge tower It's kind of scenic up there We reached the top in a about 4 hours through swirling clouds. Descent was by the South Ridge to the col between the Eiger and the Monch - followed by some glacier to the Jungfraujoch and the train back to the valley. Easy, right? After and hour or so of downclimbing and about 5 raps we realized that the rest of the descent was actually a climb of the lower NE Ridge of the Monch. The descent involved climbing the ridge past the last snowfield in the middle of the photo to reach glacier traverse Pitched out climbing on the descent After a few more hours of climbing we reached a spot to unrope - a snowcat packed tourist trail that lead across more glacier back to the Jungfraujoch. Oddly enough this trail passed within meters of large open crevasses and under some not insignificant seracs. Foot prints wandered to the edges of the big cracks - so as to get better deep hole photos we suspected. Maybe the alpine version of putting your child on a bison at Yellowstone? Full tourist action in the shadow of 4000m peaks The Junk-frau-jock - "The Top of Europe" - has got to be the craziest spectacle of alpine tourism out there. The Midi's got nothing on this place. Tubbing, ziplines and a Disney style walking loop inside the mountain called "Alpine Splendor." There's also a hotel, an observatory and probably some duty free shopping as well. We had to ask for directions 3 times to find the train outta there. Tuckered out from a big day in hills Though definitely not memorable by virtue of the climbing itself, Alps objectives like the Mittellegi not only put a new spin on climbing but also put one in touch with the roots of Alpine history. And banging out a reasonably big climb in a wild setting without touching a foot to dirt or trail is an interesting departure from our North American climbing paradigm. It's also just cool to climb a peak called the Eiger. Gear Notes: 50m rope (the most needed for descent raps) Few finger to thin hands cams 4-5 quickdraws to simul climb fixed rope sections A few big lockers like the Petzl Williams are nice - they can clip on to any of the massive fixed ropes or stanchions around the Alps Steel pons, axe, etc. $$$$ Approach Notes: Train: Interlaken Ost > Eismeer Station tunnel + Jungfraujoch > Interlaken Ost - through Grindelwald is shorter I think Total trip cost for train and hut + water ~225CHF
  5. So is the goulotte the actual C-B finish up the right side of the Fin (?) or is it the line more to the right that hooks up with the Serp?
  6. Looking for BD Bionic Frontpoints

    That's the motherlode for sure . . . Thanks for linking
  7. The orange ones - a pair or four. I'll pay the shipping and whatever it takes to make it worth your while to send them. Thanks!
  8. [TR] Dragontail Peak - Gerber-Sink 3/2/2015

    Quick conditions note from ascent on 3/8: - Still awesome climbing. Kind of like climbing the ice pitches between the 1st and 2nd Couloirs on the TC's over and over. - Last pitch to gain the 3rd Couloir is way melted out compared to the OP's photo. Blebs of ice, moss sticks (bomber) and a few hooks get you up that last 30'. A Sceptre was nice to have for frozen moss pro. - Rock gear/anchors are there but take a sharp eye and some poking around. Had three stubbies and could've used one or two more. We ended up cleaning a fair bit of snow, dirt and micro choss out of poor looking cracks and ended up with some good gear placements. - Recent snow/spindrift on upper snowfield makes for some trailbreaking but pretty trivial overall.
  9. Conditions are too good to pass up but partner pool is dry for these days. Looking at routes like the Geber-Sink or the mixed line between Backbone and Serpentine, something on the west side, etc. Open to other ideas too . . . cheers
  10. Haute Route and Lift Skiing in Region

    The Bahnhoff (yes, it's right across from the train station) has hostel style bunk rooms and a well equipped kitchen. Probably still spendy but at least you don't have to eat out. In the summer it was 40-ish CHF a night but probably more in the winter. I've been told all the Co-op's (the Swiss grocery chain) are obliged to sell food at the same cost at all locations in Switzerland. So that stick of sausage in Zermatt costs the same as it would in Geneva - not that it's affordable in either locale. Still making your own food is reasonable even in Zermatt . . In Cham the recommended place in town is the Ski Station. Hostel with breakfast I think. France feels downright cheap after you've been in Switzerland for awhile . . Another logistical aspect is getting all your shit from Chamonix to Zermatt if you are going to stay in Zermatt for a bit. It's way less of a hassle to get from Zermatt to Geneva than to go from Zermatt to Chamonix to Geneva. I think there are taxi services that can transport your kit after you blast off on the Haute Route. Hope this helps you some
  11. No snow means summer rockfall?

    Maybe . . . on the other hand I think there might actually be a fair bit of snow up high. We have gotten some pretty significant precip events this winter with a freezing/snow level hovering around 6k (though sometimes going much higher than that). Just because we've got jack shit for snow at low elevations doesn't necessarily mean there's no snow anywhere in the mountains . . . Skiing around up on the Coleman Gl. it doesn't seems any less filled in this year than last. And climbing the TC's the other day the gullies were surprisingly filled in compared with photos I've seen from years that registered much lower on the 'oh shit there is no snow' meter. Thoughts from the community at large?
  12. I think belonging to the group camped above the west side of the lake on Friday/Saturday (you were the only folks we saw up there with skis). I probably won't see a pm on this board so email me at: lee.lazzara yahoo.com I can get them to you one way or another
  13. Helmet sold too . . .
  14. Axe and Shovel no longer available
  15. Photos for all the below at: http://bellingham.craigslist.org/spo/4834237283.html Prefer local pick up but might be willing to ship based on terms. Will be in Seattle Saturday the 10th in the PM. Brooks Range Elephant’s Foot Bivy Bag - $100 3-season bivy bag - shoulder length - 25deg F when paired with big puffy jacket (hint: pull bag up underneath jacket) 850 fill goose down – less than 1 lb. – used 10 times, maybe . . . BD Raven Ice Axe 75cm - $30 Used for 1 season but this thing isn’t wearing out any time soon BD Vector Helmet M/L - $40 Used lightly – a few dirt smudges on lid. That’s what you get with a white helmet Petzl Adjama Climbing Harness M/L - $45 Wore this once and remembered Petzl harnesses don’t fit me. Pretty much new. Comes with bonus ice clipper. Volie Rescue Shovel w/ Tourlight XL Probe (260cm) - $40 Used lightly. Edelweiss 8.5 x 70m ½ rope - $70 This could be a great glaciated skiing rope to split between you and a friend. That way you both have one if the other falls in a crevasse. At the very least don’t be the fool who carries the only rope in the group and then falls in the crevasse. That would suck and there’s no rapid dispatch helicopter to come pull your ass out of the hole like in the Alps. Not new but still stays dry in in the snow. Used mostly as a tag line on ice routes. Make two 35m ropes, or a 30m and a 40m, or whatever . . . BTW: I know some of you are just so tempted to tell me that no rope should ever be sold used. I respect your opinion so much you don’t even need to post telling me I shouldn’t be selling it. I get it. If you don’t want to buy it – don’t buy it . . . .
×