jon

quote: Originally posted by allison: Jon, remember I-695? State surplus all gone now! That's right allison, mr tim eyman fraternity watch salesman money stealing peter puffer screwed everyone. And the funniest shit is car tabs aren't even $30. I'll look into the exit 38 deal a little bit.

Can anyone fill me in on what happened to our state surplus. Was it used for greens fees? Invested in Enron? I heard King County won't be having the heritage festival this year at Marymoore, that was always fun. With more and more people wreckreating I find it hard to believe that they are closing down parks. Are sport climbers going to have to wear camouflage spandex to climb at 38 now?

Two weeks ago while in the waiting room of the ICU for news on my friend I was talking to a family who's elderly mother had just undergone a live saving bypass. The wife of the son had been diagnosed with a late stage cancer and was told that she would die within months. She went to a treatment center and amazingly survived, cancer free for two years now. In college one of my good friends whom I was living with was diagnosed with and survived hodgkin's lymphoma. It was sad seeing him suffer as he underwent treatment. It also was very personal, it happened to be in the same area of cancer research that I've been working on the last four years. Cancer doesn't disciminate, it doesn't care if you are white, black, green, super fit, super slob, young, old, climber or not, anyone can get it. There are hundreds of different kinds, each having different initiating factors, whether it is genetic disposition, spontaneous mutation, environmental, parasitic, or viral. Some are easy to treat, some don't have a treatment at all. Pancreatic Cancer has a 1% survivability. 1 in 8 women in my generation will get breast cancer. Please support cancer research and treatment centers, whether it is by donations, volunteering, or participating in fundraising events. Every ounce of support helps.

quote: Originally posted by Sparky: C.C. refers to Capt. Caveman-the fascist we all loved to hate! Ray... I like Ray, he's been nice to me and is really passionate about climbing. Just needs to work on the short fuse. quote: Honestly, I doubt that I would initiate a shit-talk fest with someone I didn't know. Did you not read your second post?

I would not tie in with a normal bowline, I never have, and now have a really good reason not to. I do tie in with a modified bowline; two rabbit holes partly revowen back towards the other end with a safety know (similar to what was in a Climbing tech article a few months ago). I like this knot because it is easy to get out of, I have an affinity for getting figure-8's to tight to get out of (loose some weight you say!). Two problems with this knot; most people don't climb with it and don't know what it should look like, and since it is more complex it is easier to screw up. With this in mind and applying Ockham's Razor I'm considering going back to the figure-8.

Those fucking biologists!

Get that guy some spinach!

Can you idiots just shut the fuck up for once. Have a little tact. I'm purposely being a little vague here because I'm not sure what info the family wants released. Jim is in stable condition and improving. He is no longer on a ventilator or using a feeding tube, is fully conscious and fairly cognitive. He has been able to stand and sit in a chair but with some difficulty, basically he's having trouble exhurting himself. As with most injuries of this nature it is going to take some time for things to get back to normal. He has not been transfered yet, they are still assessing rehab options. Please do your friends and family a favor and be safe while your out there and wear a brain bucket. Jon

frosted lucky freshiez they're magically plabalicious!

erik your the ass. i don't have a clue what this person was saying but I was wise enough to know that it is someone who happens to live in the same town jim grew up in.

quote: Originally posted by pope: Hey, that's damn funny! Kind of interesting how a row of condos will offend somebody when line after line of bolts will not. Hey you could say the same about the opposite too huh. If bolting gets your panties in a bunch never become a mountain biker. Nothing like being banned from a trail right next to a damn clearcut and freeway. Sorry I'm bitter. Definately check out that website, very interesting. They are obviously in need of money to make these land purchases, I might write a few quick letters to encourage some outdoor companies to help, like dare I say it... REI.

quote: Originally posted by crack addict: about the only positive thing i can say is that i am glad the freshie cam got demoted - next stop the garbage heap. however, i am disappointed that the gremlins haven't been dropped. no matter how high tech the site gets, it'll never outgrow its infantile image until the gremlins go. I just got off the phone with your credit card company, we couldn't get your monthly user fee to go through. Would you like to choose another payment option? In other words eat a dick!

yeah i heard there isn't much of a market anymore for colorblind webdesigners huh

Good work fellaz! Nice TR Dan!

I just bought a Metolius Web-o-lette, was $25 at Marmot. Haven't used it yet. 10' long 3/4" weight 4.8 oz

Too bad it isn't a first ascent cause they could call it "Effortlessly Couloir"

My boss saw this presentation and the Mounatineers lodge by the Mt. Baker ski area a couple months back and really enjoyed it.

I didn't think they came out that great, but my coworkers think they taste really good. I don't know if it was having to mix everything with a fork or the part where I accidentilly boiled the butter to soften it in the oven.

Try Netscape 6, it renders frames much better than 5.

Ok here's a question, which I can't investigate because I don't have the right CAG here. On your way to Hannigan Pass from the parking lot there is what appears to be granite domes to the left (north?), looks like it has some potential. Has anyone checked these out.

I’m in the midst of writing up an accident report from this weekend with what I think should be learned from it, but I thought I’d fuel the conversation here. What I experienced on Sunday was something that I’d hoped I would never have to go through, and now that it has happened, I hope it never happens again. The reality though is that climbing is dangerous and it is likely that I will be in the vicinity of an accident again, and I will be ready, and better than I was this time. In a way I’m actually surprised I have witnessed more accidents with the sometimes carnival atmospheres that you see at places like vantage, 38, and Smith. I spent about 5 years in a SAR unit. I’ve responded to things like hypothermia, broken bones, plane crashes, hangliders stuck in trees, and unfortunately casualties. This was the first time thought that I was first to the scene of something this bad, where someone’s life is on the line. It didn’t help that it was a good friend. My friend Jim is very lucky to be alive. The fact that the only broken bone he suffered was his collar bone is beyond me. It could have been much worse, actually it should have. After lowering off the route I was on and reaching Jim right after Chad I quickly realized how serious this was. I don’t want to get into gory details right now but in my head I was confronted with the fact that he could die there. At first there was no breathing and not a detectable pulse with very evident head trauma. Chad and I both conceded to each other later that we both realized we very well might have had to resuscitate him. Having to perform CPR on someone with a potential neck/spinal injury is something I never want to have to do, you risk killing them trying to save them. I think we were very lucky to be where we were, close to a road, near a couple towns, in a place where a helicopter could land easily. Had this been in a different setting I’m afraid to say the outcome might have been different. Looking back at how I handled the situation I think I did alright, I wish I had done some things better but all I can do is learn from it. It’s definitely hard to stay calm in a situation like this and I really credit Chad, Andrew, and someone from another group named Chris who remained calm thus helping me stay calm. I’m definitely going to seek more medical training involving severe trauma. Luckily Chad was there who has more medical experience than I have, he knew exactly what needed to be done. Had this been a situation where we would have to rig some raises and lowering it would have been a good thing I was there because I spent hundreds of hour learning this type of rescue system. Luckily we didn’t need to. I’m just really grateful Jim is still with us. This whole thing still seems a little unreal, in the same way Sept. 11 felt, though way more personal. Hopefully people hearing about and learning from this accident will prevent future accidents.

So Court you agree with me then? I was first taught head back, but later learned head looking forward by professional strength and conditioning coachs. We broke down every movement and I had to be signed off on my form after my last set. I don't do cleans much anymore but they were by far my favorite lift and I got really good at it thanks to a lot of attention. I was lucky in that for 5 days a week for 8 months I got trained by the best in the business for free. What I learned from those people is invaluable. That said I wouldn't hesitate to pay for a professional trainer to analyze my form.

In this epic episode of the Iron Chef, the dazzed and confused molecular biologist jon is pitted against, well, his inability to bake cookies. Although he lacks practically every utensil needed to make a delicious batch of white chunck and macedamea nut cookies, including a sifter, a mixer, and a cookie sheet, armed with an fridge full of beer and his beloved Jurassic 5 cd he is determined to prevail. Krem Ofsomyong Guy: "Iron Chef jon, why in the hell are you baking cookies this late?" jon: "Well...umm...jeezus why are you asking such hard f&*cking questions." Krem Ofsomyong Guy: "Ok, so what is your stategy in this round?" jon: "Well basically I'm just gonna start mixing shit together, try not to spill my beer, and to not fall asleep while they are cooking burning the house down." Krem Ofsomyong Guy: "Excellent jon, this looks like it will be quite an epic tonight." More Iron Chef after a few words from our sponsor, Deschutes Obsidian Stout.......

If it's you, suck it into your bike bottle and blow it on people.

After reading that article I'd be really careful about reading a climbing magazine article and going to do a lift like dead lift or squats. As simple as they make it sound there is serious technique and other strengthening involved in doing those lifts. You could get really hurt doing those, and I’ve actually seen it happen. As I’m starting to write this and reading the dead lift thing over and over it’s starting to piss me off. Contrary to the article I was taught not to squat, dead lift or power clean with your head back like they say in the article. People believe that putting your head back like that is better for your back. It’s not. It puts unnecessary stress on you neck and promotes over-curvature of the spine. By looking at the ceiling you are not looking at the most important thing, your fucking technique (yes I’m getting really pissed). Additionally the key to not hurting your back is to have a very powerful midsection, meaning abs, obliques, and lower back. Your abs should be so tight during these lifts that someone could hit you there without fazing you. This may be the most important thing and he doesn’t even mention it, unfuckingbelievable. I'm not implying anything about Bronco here just in general I’d be very reticent to use what I read in a climbing magazine as my primary source for info for weight training.