jon

My boss saw this presentation and the Mounatineers lodge by the Mt. Baker ski area a couple months back and really enjoyed it.

I didn't think they came out that great, but my coworkers think they taste really good. I don't know if it was having to mix everything with a fork or the part where I accidentilly boiled the butter to soften it in the oven.

Try Netscape 6, it renders frames much better than 5.

Ok here's a question, which I can't investigate because I don't have the right CAG here. On your way to Hannigan Pass from the parking lot there is what appears to be granite domes to the left (north?), looks like it has some potential. Has anyone checked these out.

I’m in the midst of writing up an accident report from this weekend with what I think should be learned from it, but I thought I’d fuel the conversation here. What I experienced on Sunday was something that I’d hoped I would never have to go through, and now that it has happened, I hope it never happens again. The reality though is that climbing is dangerous and it is likely that I will be in the vicinity of an accident again, and I will be ready, and better than I was this time. In a way I’m actually surprised I have witnessed more accidents with the sometimes carnival atmospheres that you see at places like vantage, 38, and Smith. I spent about 5 years in a SAR unit. I’ve responded to things like hypothermia, broken bones, plane crashes, hangliders stuck in trees, and unfortunately casualties. This was the first time thought that I was first to the scene of something this bad, where someone’s life is on the line. It didn’t help that it was a good friend. My friend Jim is very lucky to be alive. The fact that the only broken bone he suffered was his collar bone is beyond me. It could have been much worse, actually it should have. After lowering off the route I was on and reaching Jim right after Chad I quickly realized how serious this was. I don’t want to get into gory details right now but in my head I was confronted with the fact that he could die there. At first there was no breathing and not a detectable pulse with very evident head trauma. Chad and I both conceded to each other later that we both realized we very well might have had to resuscitate him. Having to perform CPR on someone with a potential neck/spinal injury is something I never want to have to do, you risk killing them trying to save them. I think we were very lucky to be where we were, close to a road, near a couple towns, in a place where a helicopter could land easily. Had this been in a different setting I’m afraid to say the outcome might have been different. Looking back at how I handled the situation I think I did alright, I wish I had done some things better but all I can do is learn from it. It’s definitely hard to stay calm in a situation like this and I really credit Chad, Andrew, and someone from another group named Chris who remained calm thus helping me stay calm. I’m definitely going to seek more medical training involving severe trauma. Luckily Chad was there who has more medical experience than I have, he knew exactly what needed to be done. Had this been a situation where we would have to rig some raises and lowering it would have been a good thing I was there because I spent hundreds of hour learning this type of rescue system. Luckily we didn’t need to. I’m just really grateful Jim is still with us. This whole thing still seems a little unreal, in the same way Sept. 11 felt, though way more personal. Hopefully people hearing about and learning from this accident will prevent future accidents.

So Court you agree with me then? I was first taught head back, but later learned head looking forward by professional strength and conditioning coachs. We broke down every movement and I had to be signed off on my form after my last set. I don't do cleans much anymore but they were by far my favorite lift and I got really good at it thanks to a lot of attention. I was lucky in that for 5 days a week for 8 months I got trained by the best in the business for free. What I learned from those people is invaluable. That said I wouldn't hesitate to pay for a professional trainer to analyze my form.

In this epic episode of the Iron Chef, the dazzed and confused molecular biologist jon is pitted against, well, his inability to bake cookies. Although he lacks practically every utensil needed to make a delicious batch of white chunck and macedamea nut cookies, including a sifter, a mixer, and a cookie sheet, armed with an fridge full of beer and his beloved Jurassic 5 cd he is determined to prevail. Krem Ofsomyong Guy: "Iron Chef jon, why in the hell are you baking cookies this late?" jon: "Well...umm...jeezus why are you asking such hard f&*cking questions." Krem Ofsomyong Guy: "Ok, so what is your stategy in this round?" jon: "Well basically I'm just gonna start mixing shit together, try not to spill my beer, and to not fall asleep while they are cooking burning the house down." Krem Ofsomyong Guy: "Excellent jon, this looks like it will be quite an epic tonight." More Iron Chef after a few words from our sponsor, Deschutes Obsidian Stout.......

If it's you, suck it into your bike bottle and blow it on people.

After reading that article I'd be really careful about reading a climbing magazine article and going to do a lift like dead lift or squats. As simple as they make it sound there is serious technique and other strengthening involved in doing those lifts. You could get really hurt doing those, and I’ve actually seen it happen. As I’m starting to write this and reading the dead lift thing over and over it’s starting to piss me off. Contrary to the article I was taught not to squat, dead lift or power clean with your head back like they say in the article. People believe that putting your head back like that is better for your back. It’s not. It puts unnecessary stress on you neck and promotes over-curvature of the spine. By looking at the ceiling you are not looking at the most important thing, your fucking technique (yes I’m getting really pissed). Additionally the key to not hurting your back is to have a very powerful midsection, meaning abs, obliques, and lower back. Your abs should be so tight during these lifts that someone could hit you there without fazing you. This may be the most important thing and he doesn’t even mention it, unfuckingbelievable. I'm not implying anything about Bronco here just in general I’d be very reticent to use what I read in a climbing magazine as my primary source for info for weight training.

How many times do you dead lift a week? Are you also doing things like squats or leg press, and how often are you doing those?

Crap, I just broke my scanner sitting on it, how am I going to explain this to my boss.

I'm going to make this really quick because it's been a pretty long and stressful day, and just got home from the hospital. The climber involved in the accident is my good friend and roommate. Jim is an experienced climber as many who know him can attest. It's not entirely clear what happened but he was either not properly tied in or his knot came undone somehow. He took about a 40 - 50 foot groundfall and rolled halfway down the hill at feathers. He wasn't wearing a helmet. He's currently in a coma in critical but stable condition with his family at his side. Besides the severe head injury he broke his collor bone. It's basically just wait and see at this point. Thanks to those who were there and aided in getting him out of there safely. Family and friends would appreciate that people don't call the hospital or go and try to visit him. Any individuals who were there at the accident or are friends send me an email and I will keep you up to date on his conditions as I find out.

The Access Fund:YOUR CLIMBING FUTUREVirtual Times #14http://www.accessfund.org/February 2002 Submissions/comments for the Virtual Times are welcome via email to john@accessfund.orgTo view this e-news on our website click: http://www.accessfund.org/virtual_times/e-news16.html ------------------------------------------------------------------------ IN THIS ISSUE:1. Access Fund Grant Supports Bouldering in Bishop, CA2. BLM Asks For Voluntary Closure of Western Chalk Bluff3. Bridalveil Falls, Colorado4. President Bush Authorizes Oil Exploration for Drilling in the Desert of Utah5. Indian Creek Update6. Jefferson County Open Space Developing Climbing Management Plans, CO ------------------------------------------------------------------------1. Access Fund Grant Supports Bouldering in Bishop, CA------------------------------------------------------------------------The Access Fund has provided a $9,750 grant to the Bishop, CA field office of the Bureau of Land Management to manage the tremendous growth of bouldering in this area and protect resources on the Volcanic Tablelands. Funds will be directed towards a number of projects, including campground maintenance, climber education, outreach, and cultural resource surveys. The grant is part of the Access Fund's nationwide Bouldering Campaign, which aims to: -Raise awareness about bouldering among land managers and the public;-Promote care and respect for natural places visited by boulderers;-Mobilize the climbing community to act responsibly & work cooperatively with land managers;-Protect and rehabilitating bouldering resources;-Preserve bouldering access. For more information, contact Shawn Tierney, access and acquisitions director, at shawn@accessfund.org. ------------------------------------------------------------------------2. BLM Asks For Voluntary Closure of Western Chalk Bluff------------------------------------------------------------------------Steve Addington, Field Manager for the Bureau of Land Management in Bishop, CA, is asking the public to honor a voluntary seasonal closure of public lands along the western part of Chalk Bluff, north of Bishop, to protect raptor habitat. The voluntary closure to foot, equestrian and vehicle traffic will be in effect from January 1 to July 31, 2002. The closure area is from the northern edge of Chalk Bluff Road to the northern boundaries of Sections 19, 20 and 21, and from the eastern edge of Section 21 (touching the uppermost tip of Happy Boulders canyon) west to the edge of the power line road above Pleasant Valley Reservoir. The closure applies to BLM-managed public lands and does not include the foot trail in the middle of Section 21. There will be signs posted in the area asking visitors to respect the closure, with additional notices at information kiosks and local businesses. Although it is expected that the closure will have a minimal effect on climbing due to limited bouldering in this area, the Access Fund urges all climbers to honor this closure as it will help preserve access in the future. As a result of public input and environmental analysis, the BLM decided on a voluntary closure for the 2002 raptor-breeding season. The completed environmental analysis document is available at the Bishop library or from the BLM office in Bishop. BLM is continuing to study the situation and will begin a public planning effort to guide long-term management of the area. The process will be completed by September 30.For more information contact Doug Dodge, Joe Pollini or Joy Fatooh at the BLM's Bishop field office at 760-872-4881. ------------------------------------------------------------------------3. Bridalveil Falls, Colorado------------------------------------------------------------------------ Bridalveil Falls, one of the most sought-after ice climbs in this country has a new access problem. Idarado Mining Company, owner of the property where the falls is located, did not renew their year-to-year recreational access easement with the Town of Telluride. This means that the approach to the Falls is technically closed, at least for the Winter 2001-2002 season. The Access Fund is working with Regional Coordinator Steve Johnson and local climbers to explore all options for restoring access to this historic climb. For more information, contact Shawn Tierney, access and acquisitions director, at shawn@accessfund.org. ------------------------------------------------------------------------4. President Bush Authorizes Oil Exploration for Drilling in the Desert of Utah------------------------------------------------------------------------ President Bush recently authorized oil exploration and drilling between Canyonlands National Park and Arches National Park in Utah. Some of this exploration will occur on land recently reviewed for expansion of Canyonlands National Park. The San Rafael Swell just south of Capitol Reef NP is also being considered for oil and gas drilling. Federal and state park officials, and even some oil companies, object to this policy. Please see the New York Times article below: http://www.nytimes.com/2002/02/08/politics/08UTAH.html?ex=1014466451&ei=1&en=9b2f18bd3c0ca2fb The Access Fund is concerned about the potential effects of oil and gas exploration on the climbing experience in Canyonlands, Indian Creek, and other lesser-known areas in this region. We do not believe the limited resources that could be extracted from these areas justify the disruption of the environment that inevitably accompanies drilling. See http://www.congress.gov for contact information for your elected officials. ------------------------------------------------------------------------5. Indian Creek Update------------------------------------------------------------------------ On January 17 and 18, at the request of the Access Fund, an informal meeting was held at the BLM Monticello Field Office to discuss issues concerning the upcoming Recreation Plan for Indian Creek. Access Fund Policy Analyst Jason Keith, BLM recreation planners, and representatives from The Nature Conservancy and Rocky Mountain Field Institute attended this meeting. The new plan will likely include changes and improvements in camping locations, vehicular access, and perhaps limited route closures to rock art, ruins, and wildlife. By Fall of 2002 the BLM hopes to present a draft Indian Creek Recreation Plan EA for public review and comment. For more information visit our website http://www.accessfund.org/programs/programs_news_pr.html ------------------------------------------------------------------------6. Jefferson County Open Space Developing Climbing Management Plans, CO ------------------------------------------------------------------------Jefferson County Open Space (JCOS) is currently in the process of developing or implementing management plans for lands, which feature outstanding and historic climbing opportunities, including Cathedral Spires Park and Clear Creek Canyon Park. JCOS recognizes the climbing the climbing values of these areas (includes Cynical Pinnacle and the Dome) and is soliciting input to help in the planning for these sites. Further information can be obtained from Colleen Gadd at JCOS by calling 303-271-5995. JCOS is hosting a public meeting on Thursday, February 28 from 6:30-8:30pm to gather information and ideas about climbing in Clear Creek Canyon Park. The location will be in the Open Space building in Golden at 700 Jefferson County Parkway, in the Hearing Room. The Access Fund encourages climbers to attend this meeting. ------------------------------------------------------------------------

quote: Originally posted by mikeadam: Jon, I'm not sure which Monkeys you're talking about but Powergel 10 pack has gone into favor over GU. quote: Originally posted by jon: You know, if we synchronized our schedules when Lambone is on campus, you could have him, Mueller, icegirl and myself at the same time. You'd save a lot of gas. You could bring your gang, I'll go across the hall and grab some monkeys to join our gang, and it will be just like a Michael Jackson video. Any you know the wild chimps will give 110%!!! The wild chimps that give 110% Mike, jesus! These chimps don't fuck around either. PowerGel 10 pack? Nah I'll take a sixer of Schmidts tallboys over that crap. Interesting story about Gatoraid though that I bet nobody has heard. So Gatoraid was developed at the U of Florida as a recovery drink for endurance athletes. Lots of sugar while your insulin levels are at their peak 30 minutes post workout, which is good. Well the dumbshits didn't patent it and a bunch of people ran off and made millions of dollars with their idea. U of F makes nothing. So doing anything collaborative with that University sucks because they want all the rights to everything. Anyways....

quote: Originally posted by mikeadam: $35 dollars and you can register either at REI or directly by mailing them. Sounds like fun. So the monkeys want to know how much it's for them to enter, they think $35 is a little steep unless there is a special macaque category. They also want to know if they could get bananas instead of GU at the fueling stations, or at least banana flavored GU. I think they're being a bit unreasonable, but hey they did go into space before us.

You know, if we synchronized our schedules when Lambone is on campus, you could have him, Mueller, icegirl and myself at the same time. You'd save a lot of gas. You could bring your gang, I'll go across the hall and grab some monkeys to join our gang, and it will be just like a Michael Jackson video. Any you know the wild chimps will give 110%!!!

Works on Mac OS X with M$ media player.

Vegy your shit better knock it off or I'm coming over and stuffin your ass in the juicer.

After a two hour conference call between cascade climberz inc. and its venture capital parterners, by unanimous vote have decided to replace the freshiez cam with the GO FUCK YOURSELF CAM!!

If you send Tim a PM he might be able to post you a picture of what it looks like. I was just down at Bachelor and Broken Top looked pretty good.

Maybe you guys should find a boss that climbs, skis, sail boat races, etc. and takes 6-7 weeks of vacation a year.

Hey I'm about to go to the TNF outlet in an hour, does anyone one want anything? I know Dru wants a Met 5.

http://www.alpenglow.org/links/nwsnow.htmlWerd!

Charlie you have too many Zimas there or what?

Isn't that Mt. She's gonna blow from Beck's Teddy Ruxpin story.