rocketparrotlet

When climbing R&D this weekend, we got a #2 Technical Friend stuck on the pitch between Cocaine Connection and the R&D chimney. If someone is able to get it out, that would be awesome. I'd love to have it back, and I'll pay you a few bucks for your time. I kind of expect this to become fixed gear, but I really hope not. Thanks, Mark

I was in Leavenworth this weekend, and I asked him about it, thinking the route would take him 3 hours if it takes a normal party all day. Nope. 25 minutes bottom to top. Way to send, Marc!

Are you going to be in Leavenworth this weekend? If so, I might see you there.

Well, do you think they blow because they are awkward, or because they are hard? Have you had a go at the 'buttlips' at Index? That chimney blows. It's the worst thing I have ever climbed, and the only time I have ever had to pull on gear to get up. I was on toprope. Might give Midway a shot soon, but I'm not too worried about that.

Sorry, won't make that mistake again.

Deals change every 20 minutes or so. It was a Black Diamond bivy at 40% off when I posted it. Now it's something else. That's how Steepandcheap works.

http://www.steepandcheap.com/ Get them quickly!

I just drooled a little.

Thank you very much! This is awesome.

I'm looking for a couple of guidebooks for rock and ice climbing in the Index and Leavenworth areas. I would love to buy a new copy of Leavenworth Rock, Sky Valley Rock, and Washington State Ice, but I can't afford to. Does anybody who "upgraded" have an old version to sell? Thanks, Mark

How technical is this route right now? AI2/3?

That's almost as hard as our route at the Bluffs!

Thanks, I really appreciate your offer! I will let you know if we are in the area without a ride.

We didn't go because our ride bailed on us an we couldn't take bikes on the train. The other factors did not change my decision.

Harrison Bluffs grades (near Marc's house) are not. I found them quite comparable to Index. 5.9 there felt like the 5.9 I know and love. I saw his projects, and they are not inflated grades at all. Why the bad blood towards Marc? He is a generous, good-natured person and a strong climber.

Josh and I have already talked this over and I do not feel like Baker would be the best choice for me in this questionable weather. However, I appreciate your concern. Josh was not the one who bailed, by the way, he was committed until we were 100% sure Leavenworth would not work this weekend. Best of luck on your trip Josh. Take lots of pictures and make sure to have enough food and water this time.

My partner/ride bailed on me at the last minute for Leavenworth, and I was hoping that I could still be able to get out this weekend. I don't have a car, but I can pay gas money and can provide rope and gear. Index, Leavenworth, alpine ice, etc. I live in Everett. -Mark

I was going to head out to Leavenworth tonight via train with Josh for the weekend, but it occured to me that we don't have a car. How is access to the climbs by foot? Does anybody have a link to a map of climbing destinations in Leavenworth to judge distances or suggestions for how else to get around? -Mark

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/mountain//winger-for-the-weekend-36

I'll take the guides if things fall through. -Mark

I'll take the guides if things fall through. -Mark

When taking the basic climbing course, I remember that we were required to anchor everything at the bottom of the climb...they believed it was ALWAYS possible using webbing. That crack over there...can you sling it? No? Better to use the giant boulder 20 feet down with 3 pieces of tubular tied together. -Mark

I've been to that summit, but my photos suck. Good point, though. It was Mt. Pugh, you want to start?

Why?

Here's the rules: I'll post a picture of a summit in Washington, and the first one to guess it successfully gets to put up the next one, etc. (Not my photo)