rocketparrotlet

Who, me?

Speaking of which, we haven't heard from Josh in a long time. I wonder if he learned anything from this site, or if he's up to his same old game. The mentoring thing is working fine. He's a lot more responsible than he was half a year ago. Banning him from SP didn't do crap though but make everybody angry and satisfy the admins. -Mark

Darn it! I don't know how to fix the giant picture size!

Trip: Leavenworth - Rainbow Falls and The Funnel Date: 12/27/2009 Trip Report: First TR, sorry if I don't get the format right! EDIT: Pictures resized, posted here: http://www.summitpost.org/trip-report/586951/Ice-climbing-in-Leavenworth.html Giant pictures removed from this post. I went out to Leavenworth for some ice climbing the 2 days between Christmas and my birthday, making for a perfect holiday break! It was my first time ice climbing, due to a very generous invitation by Curt (montypiton). We went up Rainbow Falls (I think) the first day, where I learned technique and placing screws. I did a lot of "bouldering" (icicling?) at the bottom while Curt and his son Michael were climbing, testing out different tools and different swing techniques. http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/585653.JPG[/img http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/585654.JPG[/img http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/585655.JPG[/img http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/585656.JPG[/img http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/585657.JPG[/img http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/585658.JPG[/img http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/585659.JPG[/img http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/585660.JPG[/img http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/585661.JPG[/img The next morning, we hiked up to The Funnel, a 2-3 pitch waterfall on Hubba Hubba Wall. The ice was more brittle and hard here, and I had to learn different techniques. I got a tool stuck on the vertical section at the bottom, and consequently fell trying to get it out. (Darn it!) When I reached the belay, I asked Curt where to stand, and he gestured towards a slightly less sloped part of the waterfall with a thin layer of snow. I remember thinking, "Wait, what? I don't see a stance...oh." It was cool to look at the anchor, built off a resident piton, Curt's freshly-placed piton, and an ice screw. I hung the backpack with our puffy coats and some hot tea and clipped my camera in to the anchor. This was all new to me, but what a fun experience! Curt brought Michael up and then led the second pitch, then Michael followed. A barrage of ice continued on throughout, with me looking up then consequently pressing myself against the waterfall repeatedly as chunks of ice bounced and shattered on my helmet. When it was finally my chance to climb, I undid the anchor and continued on to Curt and Michael at the top, noticing how small the front points on my G-12's were and how they barely scraped the surface of the ice, yet still gave me enough support to weight them. http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/585662.JPG[/img http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/585663.JPG[/img http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/585664.JPG[/img http://c0278592.cdn.cloudfiles.rackspacecloud.com/original/585665.JPG[/img The rappel tree, unfortunately, was about 20 feet above us. I led the short, unprotectable pitch (thinking there would be ice underneath, thus rendering it easy), but there was only powder snow covering rocks. I delicately continued up, and I hooked a small tree with my ice tool until I was able to climb onto the large tree, clip in, and belay Michael and Curt up. We rappelled back down, packed up our gear, and hiked down in the dark. All in all, this was a fun trip and I am very eager for my second time ice climbing! -Mark Gear Notes: I bought a pair of Aztars from Curt! It was cool getting to test gear before buying it. Approach Notes: Rainbow Falls is like 3 minutes from the road, The Funnel is about 1,500 feet higher. Totally worth the walk though! (Who am I kidding- I like hiking too.)

If you never bail, then you won't be around very long to have the choice. We all get sketched, and a little Elvis leg never hurt anyone! -Mark

Unfortunately, it doesn't happen very often. Lower section looks sketch- plus the pro probably wouldn't have been as good 100 years ago.

People like these make me sick. -Mark

I would suggest emailing him this thread and telling him to read it. Seeing a negative thread posted about yourself would be a sobering experience, but not a flameout that would publicly embarrass him. -Mark

I know that Snoquera Falls, a 400-foot waterfall near Crystal Mountain, freezes over in the winter. It looks like an amazing ice climb for the capable. However, I have not been able to find any information about it, besides the fact that a young woman died ice climbing there (a tragedy.) I am not interested myself in climbing Snoquera Falls, as it would probably be too hard for me, but I was curious to know if anyone else has or plans to, or if not, why not. (400 foot waterfall with vertical sections? Seems strange it's not more recognized.) Also, I'm assuming no part of Wallace Falls freezes over. Because if it did, everyone would want to climb it. Right? -Mark

I'd be up for Index! Just rock climbing and not mixed, right? I don't have much mixed experience, but I love climbing moderate (5.9) rock routes. I live in Everett. -Mark

I bought one of those pairs of modded Aztars to use leashless- I guess I'm badass now...? Those climbs look sweet! If I'm in the area again soon (and I just might be in the next couple of weeks) I would like to check them out! -Mark

I had a great time out with Curt (montypiton)! Thanks again. I'm looking for partners now for some easy (WI3) climbing. If anyone is interested, PM me! -Mark

Rainbow Gully has some nice, easy ice climbing. The Funnel on Hubba Hubba Wall is up as well. -Mark

The White Spider showed up! I will have to read that soon. That mountain grips me, I will have to climb it someday. -Mark

That movie was enthralling. It convinced me to buy "The White Spider" by Heinrich Harrer, an account of the first successful ascent of the Eiger Nordwand (but you all probably know that). I hope to climb the North Face someday, to repeat that route. But that won't be for a long time. For now, I am looking forward to Leavenworth ice if I happen to go. -Mark

Is the ice in Leavenworth any good right now?

I thought this would be a job offer...I was very wrong.

Umm yeah...I lost a full rack...with that stuff in it. No I'm just kidding. That's awesome that you put this up here! Someone's going to be happy. Try craigslist maybe if you haven't gotten any results yet. -Mark

From Oxford. liberal • adjective 1 willing to respect and accept behaviour or opinions different from one’s own. 2 (of a society, law, etc.) favourable to individual rights and freedoms. 3 (in a political context) favouring individual liberty, free trade, and moderate reform. Don't get liberals confused with uneducated flakes...common mistake. I'm in the 12% club by the way, hoping to find a cheap beacon. Most people don't know crap about mountain climbing, sad truth, and they think we're all crazy adrenaline junkies wishing to die. -Mark

I'm looking for a partner for a trip tomorrow. Some ideas I had were McClellan Butte and Vesper Peak. Crags are cool too- if you've got any other ideas, shoot me a PM. -Mark

Me too. I think they're in Hyalite Canyon between December 11th and 13th. Anyone wanna go looking? -Mark

This is an amazing offer! I sent you a PM, I'd love to talk with you about this in greater detail. Thank you very much! -Mark

This looks cool! What's it like- would I be way out of place as a 16-year-old who's never ice climbed before? -Mark

So, I want to learn to ice climb. I have most of the gear (I don't have ice tools or screws, which I know cost a lot), but none of the knowledge. I've read the ice climbing FAQ's on this site multiple times over and learned quite a bit. But they are no substitute for a real person teaching. Anyone know where I can get some instruction on this? Thanks, Mark