rocketparrotlet

So I'm trying to push my way into leading 5.9 at Index. I'm almost there; just waiting for Toxic Shock to dry out to give it a go. The problem is, I haven't been able to climb any 5.10's at Index yet! I tried Libra Crack again today, and I failed again (closer though, 1 move from the good jam.) That's the only one I've ever tried at Index because the others look even harder (Sagittarius, Breakfast of Champions, etc.) What 5.10 routes at Index would you recommend that I follow to get better? -Mark

I used hot water, then graphite lock lube. The Friend is less squeaky now, and the problem with the Mastercam has been solved.

Thanks for the advice. And as for the condition, I have one Mastercam that has a lobe that tends to get stuck retracted and a #2 Friend that riles up my bird from the other room. I'll try the water first, then graphite lubricant if that doesn't work.

A couple of my cams are a little squeaky and don't snap back with as much vigor as they could. What is the best way to lubricate them? I've seen conflicting opinions on the Internet. -Mark

Don't forget, we're heading to Static Point on Saturday!

http://climbxgear.com/supertechscrew.aspx Best locking biners I've ever been able to climb on.

http://www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb/video/winger-for-the-weekend-36

I learned (and am still learning) trad at Index. If you can climb 5.9 at Index, 5.9 crack climbing will feel easy almost anywhere else. Plus, on most of the "easier" routes, pro is very good.

Do you even know me? Also, you could have saved me some trouble and responded to my PM instead of just leaving me hanging.

I looked up pics- we actually rappelled Jacob's Ladder, a decent bit climber's left of Dark Rhythm. Phew.

I'll climb with old guys. I'm 17 and not giving up soon! Let me know... -Mark

I would love to! I've been trying to get a partner for Darrington all night. PM'ed

I'm up for anything up to 5.9 or AI3, up to 12 pitches, as long as safety is of prime importance. -Mark

I PM'ed and called you a couple times, no response.

ya- like my new route at Index! Expand. I want to climb it.

They're selling CCH. They might be produced soon, within a couple of years or so. Look at Wired Bliss- they shut down for quite a while, and they are just starting to make cams again.

I'd love to join you on a couple of them if you are fine climbing with a 17-year-old. I lead trad to 5.8 and I have gear- I'm up for anything but chossy unprotectable scarefests (e.g. Jack Mountain.) -Mark

I don't get it...just what makes Aliens so great, anyways? I prefer TCUs and Mastercams.

Thank you for the warning. Please keep updates if possible- my dad and I were planning on climbing Rainier between the 14th and the 22nd, but safety is our primary concern. -Mark

Split into two rope teams, make sure everyone knows crevasse rescue and ice axe arrest, and go for it. You are essentially asking for someone to guide you up the peak...either you are ready for it (go alone) or you are not (hire a guide or become ready for it). 1. Can you haul your unconscious buddy out of a crevasse? 2. Can you arrest two climbers tied to you sliding down the hill out of control? 3. Do you know what to do if one of your partners gets altitude sickness? I'd recommend, however, practicing on some smaller glaciated peaks first. If that goes well, head for Rainier. -Mark

I have a #2 Forged Friend. It's vintage. I don't think it's taken a lead fall yet, but who knows. I'm not the first owner. It was probably actually first used by Ray Jardine. $175, this is a good deal. I'm only selling it so cheap because I'm thinning out my rack.

Touche.

I am passionate about climbing. It really guides me through everyday life to some extent and dominates my dreams. The problem is, every one of my regular partners seems to be busy every single weekend, and I have been able to go climbing only about once per month since the beginning of the year. Well, summer is coming up, and I want to improve my climbing skills and to fully experience the Cascades before I leave for college in a little over a year. I am looking for partners to go climbing with me. I love both alpine climbing and cragging. I'm in it for the companionship as well as the route, and I'd love to meet some new people. I am currently leading about 5.8 trad and trying to make the push to 5.9. I love multipitch! My goals for the summer include: -Traverse of the Liberty Bell group -Exfoliation Dome, West Buttress -Forbidden Peak, West Ridge -Mt. Baker, North Ridge -Outer Space -Silent Running However, I am open to other route ideas also. Please PM me or call me. My number is 425-423-9385. Happy climbing, Mark

if the guidebook says 9+ you should be expecting 10c. 5.9+: the grade old climbers give anything harder than 5.9 because they don't want to admit that the YDS is an open-ended scale now. -Mark

Wow! Maybe that's the place to go when weather is unpredictable. I'm just afraid of slabs in the rain, but I suppose the more popular routes are well-equipped for bail. Nice!