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Pete_H

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Everything posted by Pete_H

  1. When I cross the border I wear a t-shirt that says "hockey sucks"
  2. Even regardless of novelty factor, that is still one of the funnest ice routes I've done. Definitly needs a few weeks of consistent cold with a pre-existing snow pack to form up.
  3. I also tend to buy Patagonia over other products if I can because they stand behind their products and will replace or repair them if they fail or wear out. Another company, like TNF, may or may not.
  4. I had a US border agent ask to inspect my hands when I told him I'd been in Canada rock climbing. He remarked that my hands didn't look as bloody and scabby as other climbers he's seen. I just told him that's because I've been doing it for a long time and I've got good technique! I've had other US border agents ask me what the highest mountain in the world is and what the highest mountain I've climbed is. I guess to "verify" that I was indeed a climber. Ironically though, usually the US guys are a lot nicer and more professional than the Canadians.
  5. Very cool. Looks like an interesting trip with some great climbing too. I noticed that you guys were tenting it but are there other accomodations, such as guest houses, as well?
  6. Right. They don't meet DIN spec's or whatever.
  7. 11worth is going to be hot as fawk in July too. I'd consider going over to Index also. There's a few days worth of high-quality shaded 5.9ish routes there. Good shady bouldering and river swimming in 11worth though.
  8. No. Except some AT boots, like the Dynafit Zeus, have interchangeable soles so they can covert to be alpine binding compatible. Also, most (or all?) slackcountry bindings like the Marker Duke can accomodate an AT or alpine sole. Why not just use an AT binding for the downhill portion of the race?
  9. Sure a gigantual avalanche originating in a large alpine cirque is going to take out some huge vegetation and whether or not you are "skiing in the trees" will matter little. However, most fatal slides are diminutive enough that trees will in fact provide shelter and will probably negate the start of a slab avalanche in the first place.
  10. There is a real good discussion on this on TAY: http://www.turns-all-year.com/skiing_snowboarding/trip_reports/index.php?topic=23262.0 Gary Brill had a pretty enlightening post: I think the key is whether or not the "treed" slope is canopied or not. Canopied means you can see little sky. #2 photo is not canopied and hence surface hoar can form. Open treed areas are "great" for surface hoar formation and maintenance. For a canopied forest, I have only a few times released a slab. This was on steeper areas of forest above 35-40 degrees. The slides were soft slabs (with snow falling heavily at the time) and because of the forest released over a limited area. Forested areas are more often than not bumpy which makes a slope less planar for slab formation. Canopied forests: 1) act as a reservoir for falling snow and then subsequently drop that snow as a stabilizing influence, 2) anchor the snowpack in localized areas, 3) restrict windflow, meaning windslab is unlikely. In general, I feel pretty safe skiing in "old growth" canopied forest in all but the most severe of avy cycles. I'm not exactly sure what a "hectare" is but I disagree that trees have to be nearly too tight to ski to provide safety.
  11. Optimally, you'd get two different setups. But a compromise would be to have a l/w but versatile ski like a Manaslu mounted with Silvrettas and then a pair of AT boots and a pair of climbing boots. That would cover your bases pretty well.
  12. Or by anyone with a couple wood blocks who wants to get really soaking fucking wet.
  13. I'll take the rapists for 500, Alex
  14. I'd like to know how introduce my girlfriend to climbing because my wife doesn't really like it.
  15. Why would you say that Fritschis are more bomber than a tech binding? There is way more play in a Fritschi or Marker system than in a Dynafit or Plum. Just because its bigger, heavier, and bulkier doesn't necessarily make it more bomber. But, yes, it is cheaper and has the step-in capability which is nice if you are doing more lift-assist.
  16. If you got $700 bones, the Plum Guide looks like the best binding out there - lighter than the G3 and burly with a lot less moveable parts that the Dynafit or G3. Otherwise I'd get a Dynafit TLT. The G3 is still pretty heavy.
  17. Is this overhanging granite sport cave real? How do I find it? FISH ON!!! An oldy but a goody.
  18. Someone posted that on here a while back. Pretty good video.
  19. Doesn't work.
  20. Or go skiing.
  21. There's a pretty high percentage chance you would be wasting your time trying to rock climb in the PNW this weekend. It looks like there's a fairly strong system coming through. Monday doesn't look too bad tho. Vantage and Smith are probably the two warmest / dryest spots and it looks like its supposed to be cold and wet there.
  22. Local indoor climbing crag. Or the overhanging granite sport cave in Renton.
  23. But that for the most part involves subjective danger, such as running into a tree or accidently skiing off a cliff out of bounds, or falling into a tree well. Objective danger, one encounters in the backcountry or mountains, such as serac collapse or avalanche is different.
  24. Wonder if this was possibly part of the snowmobile rescue of the pilot who crashed his plane on the Deming.
  25. A good on-point critique of the Republican Party by good 'ol Thomas Friedman: http://www.nytimes.com/2012/02/12/opinion/sunday/friedman-we-need-a-second-party.html?src=recg To summarize (for Kevbone): Republicans are out of date on social issues and are ideologically uncompromising about the important issues that need to be addressed moving into the 21st C.
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