Quarryographer

None of those routes off the trestle were rebolted, they're all new. On the left is "Der" 5.6, which can be linked to "Ailed" 10c if you bypass the first set of chains making it "Derailed". Right of that is "La Vida Locamotive" 11a. And further right is "Old Milwaukee Road" 10a, which I thought was 5.9 also, but others have corrected me. Hope you liked them.

I've checked the Southwest Airlines carry on regulations, and it doesn't mention anything similar to trad gear, but I would hate to find out too late. I've seen threads about this before, but didn't pay attention.. Any input?

Found a pair of shoes at Lava point this weekend. Tell what they are and I'll be happy to return them...

I've been checking out crags all over that neighborhood for potential development. I definitely think the best rock at that exit is high up there, in nearly inaccessible places. I've seen scat and tracks of every mountain critter up there, including cougar, but never had the pleasure of a face to face... Except for a goat. What an experience! But it also brings me back to the same nagging feeling, that maybe I shouldn't make a reason for more monkeys to slog up the hill, and use their living room for a jungle gym... Goddammit, I sound like DAWG!

I'm pretty sure Yoder was also given the boot by the mounties back in the day. I guess they had issues with people surpassing their "leaders". Not exactly a healthy environment for progression of the sport imo...

In July of 2007 I fell 25 feet at work. My heel taco-ed in all the way up and touched the inside of my calf. My fibula also broke under the strain. Several surgeries later my doctor said I'd likely have to walk with a cane for the rest of my life, oh and to just give up on the silly idea of climbing. I was so choked up I wanted to cry. That statement however is what pushed me through the pain of recovery. Not sure if it was denial or determination. Probably ignorance. Anyway. In my unprofessional and obtrusive opinion: You probably have a little soft tissue damage, which slightly worse than a broken bone IMO. because the healing process is so much more frustrating. In my case I was often pushing the soft tissue too far, and doing more harm than good. Here's what I was told in PT. Push for strength and flexibility only until it's swollen, then ice. I had the luxury of the Cryo-cuff (I'ce & electric stem) to remove swelling + boost circulation. Then repeat. In your case it hasn't even been two months yet, so don't get too crazy. I was told to expect 3 months minimum for soft tissue in the ankle (Bones are only 6 weeks). Because people can't stay off their feet. Good luck to you sir.

I respect that he's out foolin around, however odd. And not just sitting back bitchin about others style and ethics... Real climbers climb whatever they can, whenever they can.

zzzzzzzzz... snore.... fart.... Same old broken record, in the age of mp3s. I feel sorry for you, letting your "principles" get in the way of the obvious progression of the sport. While you sit at home and rant about others ethics or lack thereof. The new generation of bolt clipping, plastic pulling "unethical" kids are out warming up on lines you'll never even project. Climbing is climbing dude. Trad, Sport, Ice, Bouldering, Even plastic. All the "REAL" climbers out there know it. And even though many of them have a favorite, most of them will do whatever they can whenever they can. P.S. I'd love to see a TR from you doin somethin, anything, recently.

Don't climb at sport crags then... There is plenty of Alpine radness around. I recommend you stay away from Index as well, there's some remnants of a quarry operation there. Oh and chains must be trash also so all the popular crags are out too. Sorry for your luck dude...

Thanks Lucky! Still not as good as some of your routes, but gettin there. I got the idea to break it in half from climbing at Equinox. Where if they didn't put anchors when it went up several grades, there wouldn't be much I could climb there...

Also, the canyoneers are using a really small "5mm?" kevlar sheath cord doing some hairball shit these days...

Despite what the donkey says, there are many routes in Riggins that were not manufactured some as easy as 5.9, others projects well past 14c. IMO Tractor boy the manufactured route in question is an improbable and impressive line that was "altered" from 5.17 to a mere mortal 13b, with some pretty rad moves. Also swing by Hells canyon while you're in the hood for a plethora of moderate climbs on bullet limestone. And yeah, I've got a book you can borrow, and I live in Seattle.

Nope it's definitely been moved. The old placement still has a hole with the sleeve in it (old 5 piece). There was nothing wrong with the bolt. Nearest I can tell they wanted to make it easier to see from the ground...?...

Went to Nevermind today, and noticed someone decided to move the 3rd bolt on Love Buckets. I have my doubts that it was the first ascentionist. So when did it become ok to change other peoples routes to your liking.

I've stayed at the pullouts before, but found it's worth the $12 a night for the Lone Fir campground. Far less bugs and traffic. Only a ten minute drive to the pass. And NO on cellie, you'll lose good coverage in rockport, with a tiny window in Newhalem, after that it's all the way to Winthrop before it comes back. Have fun! That's my favorite climbing neighborhood in WA

Well we're still working on a solid consensus. So far five strong climbers that I know have done it. The majority so far is 11b, but I've heard the range from 10d to 11c. I guess it's a style thing. One thing is for sure, everyone who has sent it loves it! Get on it! And btw, Burdos climb black market is 10 feet west, when you get to the ledge under the roof look west and you can see a directional bolt cleverly placed. Rusty

Two hours from LaGrande is some really awesome multi-pitch limestone. In Hells Canyon, no guidebook, but most everything is 10- to 11-. Don't get bummed out on the drive in, when all you see is rotten basalt. keep driving til you're eight miles south of the dam Idaho side. You can't miss it!

Due to either sheer luck, or the graces from beyond. Every piece I've fallen on has held. Though I still sometimes visualize them ripping out as I fly by...

I've heard the aid schpeel many times in the past, It probably is sound advice. Myself I've never had the "time to waste" at a crag yet... I believe falling on gear is the only way to really trust gear, such an awful paradox! I'm actually one of the few who thought you were on the right track before the unfortunate incident. Though your methods could have been more refined. If you plan to fall on gear I would add as many fail-safes as humanly possible... ie massively sewn up crack just below the "test piece" or a silly looking uber slack top-rope grigried off to a tree in the background. I'm sure a smart chap like yourself can find a way to over-engineer such an endeavor. And I'm sorry to hear about the incident. Gear pulling is one of my biggest nightmares. Fortunately for me it's never happened on the sharp end. Good luck to you sir..

Nevermind was all dry yesterday, I left around 6pm. Not a drop of seepage yet. But it was raining hard last night, so?

I have an extra room, but it's not in any of the posh neighborhoods you've mentioned. More like da hood "white center baby"

I always bring bolt cutters with me. Lately a "christian" group has been bringing more than ample potties with them, but they're padlocked shut lest you save/sell your soul and join their group. I even saw them turn away a pregnant girl once. Why don't any sharing-giving religious groups have climbing retreats at ol coulee?

Thanks for the beta Pilchuck71. It was much better than I expected! Hopefully I can return the favor someday!

That's obviously not the spring mtn crag in Eastern OR I've heard about... Care to share some beta? I'd love to go check this place out!

He biggum fucked!- Ten sleep canyon The Devil wears Prana- Hells Canyon Birthing Canal- Squampton Ex wife- 38 "because it's short & easy, sooner or later all your friends will get on it...