Quarryographer

The one you found is a great find I would buy it! I have a copy as well. There is stuff in there that no other guidebook has, and it has been out of print for some time. The guidebook people are probably referring to is Mazama rock. A much newer book with Goat wall and all the other newer crags which I bought at the Mazama store. I'd imagine they still have some copies there..

I agree. He almost fell trying to clip, and didn't even take a second to savor the gravity of it. Maybe that's what it takes to be that strong in the head.

This used to be a free event in Leavenworth. You'd have to pay me to listen to poopy pants talk about bolt chopping in Patagonia anyway...

Yeah I've whittled em down over the years to just 3 left. Mine are old relic hand-me-downs so I don't think the numbers match up, but just a bit larger than my biggest nut, to just a little bigger than a red BD #1 cam. Gene also made a good point with pinky. I never leave the ground without it. No matter how much the second bitches about it.

Looks like a good start. People give me a hard time about being an old fogie, but I like to keep a couple hexes with me in case I have to leave a piece on retreat. Much cheaper to replace than cams, and if placed well bomber enough to rap off a single piece.

Saturday the 12th. I had to go to the Facebook link... Cheers!

Which routes? Walking further across the talus n scree than I wanted to seemed to work for me. Better advice would be to get back in your car and drive down to the Bend or the Columns or Moon Rocks or, just about anywhere in the canyon... But if you do need to get on that horrichoss Commando pillar at least offers interesting climbing, provided the holds are still there. And the option of rappel retreat should you come to your senses. Enjoy!

I'm with Rad. Cool, and thanks. I really appreciate feedback on my routes. And you the climbers are why we do it all. I'll be going out there soon to finish the last line on that wall that has been nearly complete since before my big trip to the Valley LAST year. And I've decided to move the anchors down on the Derailed and La Vida Locamotive. I originally thought they were better all the way up on the natural ledge stance like a gear climb, but having witnessed some trs on those routes it think its messy and hard on the rope. Also I've been hearing people say that another bolt between the first and second on La Vida would be nice, so with enough voices that may happen... Cheers to all. I hope your climbing weekend was as good as ours!

The only beef I've found with the titanium is the non stick coating isn't very non stick with food. But for just water I can't imagine any diff...

Dumbass shoulda clipped the bolts...

He was transferred to Harborview last night. A broken pelvis and a couple broken ribs. All things considered pretty lucky. The quickdraw was an old "Faders" and the webbing didn't appear to be sewn. But again I arrived after the fact. Many thanks to all the climbers who helped with the rescue. People helped in a variety of ways from offering pads and jackets, to hauling gear for the medics. Hoping for a speedy recovery!

Sounds like you got the same info we do for the most part. He is a very experienced leader who introduced many of his students to climbing, including my girlfriend. We arrived shortly after the medics did. The quickdraw that failed appeared to have a 1" tubular webbing dogbone that parted when weighted at the fifth bolt of the climb leading up to Corner pockets. Still asking around for eye witnesses as to the groundfall...

I've caught my friend Micah several times falling at the crux of Red M&M's. He weighs roughly 180lbs, I'm tipping the scale at 200lbs. The gear was a small brassie in what looked like fractured basalt. The Coulee isn't the prettiest rock in the state, but at least it's rock. I feel better about gear in that stuff than the "world class" dirt clod down in Bend... My .02 =)

Hanman has the right idea. I personally try to avoid destination areas during holiday breaks. Unless you're a local and you know how to avoid the masses by climbing only obscure classics, and camping in secret spots. Tieton canyon could be an alternative WA destination...

We got fed up with the weather the last couple weekends. Between slushy ice, and windy cold foggy climbing at the Coulee. The lady and I drove to Vegas yesterday, and the weather is looking great at Red Rocks the next few days...

I like it there from September to mid June. Sometimes a bit earlier if it's a hot season. There's shady climbing to be had, but It's still a bit too warm for me in the shade after then. That said I've had awesome days Mid December, with long cold nights. Never seen it rain there, similar to the Coulee in that respect... There's a helipad about two miles from the climbing, and somebody found the up to date weather from it, but I don't know where that is.

Thanks all! Some great advice and links. I've been snowboarding close to 15 years now, and absolutely love the steep n deep. I'm new to ice climbing though, and learned last weekend that I definitely need some floatation. Others in the group had snowshoes, which seemed to suffice. But I was thinking I'd prefer to skin in, and board out. Jason, why are skis better for mountaineering? Chair peak was lookin great on Saturday.

Hey all, I was wondering if anybody has, or tried the Viole Mojo package yet? It seems like the most economical. Including bindings and skins for around $1000. Also any reasons why someone might not prefer a split-board to snowshoes may be helpful...

Agreed I thought the Gorge was a bit stiff. May as well hit Trout Creek at least there's a couple of .9s there...

Hmmmm... Just seems a bit silly to waste all that energy, and blank canvas of stone, plus rare weather window. to destroy rather than create...

Sorry, my attempt to keep it short made it hard to understand. I've looked in the archives for any pics that may be helpful, but no luck. Billcoe found a pretty decent diagram of the biner block rappel...

Sounds like Tension line territory for sure. I got the idea from short clips of Sharma bolting steep limestone. Take an old retired climbing rope, and fix it to the chains, or the last bolt you can reach before you hang in space. Drill a temp bolt just above the ground with a cold shut, or biner. Put a bight as high up as you can reach. Thread it through the cold shut, and back through the bight. Pull tight, an ascender really helps get all the stretch out. And finish with a clove around the whole thing. I like to use the canyoneers biner block rappel with a gri gri, on a single line for hands free working, and so I can pull the rope from the base after each session. You can also toprope the route this way to work out bolt placements. And if you clip a draw from your belay loop to the tension line you won't swing far on toprope. Another 2c +. Have fun! I wish we had some of that love around here!

I'm a big fan of the tensioned line. It takes a bit of creativity to get one up, but gives you maximum bang for your buck.My 2c.

And the "old route higher up" is actually my new project. There are bolts to pull in from the overhang so that I can clean the terrible dangerous rock. It would be done by now except my career and recent trip to the valley have slowed the progress...

Thanks all! I brought an alpine rack with no biners or nut tool, and slid right through security without even a search. Spent a week in the Valley, but climbed more in Tuolmnie.