Quarryographer

Howdy all! Hope you're having a safe and productive spring out there. I managed to luck in with a permit lottery winner for Little Yos this Oct. I'd never really wanted to climb snake dike, but decided to throw that in since it was the coolest thing I could find from there. Anyone have some beta on something else to think about while we're in that camp? Most everything is 12's that I'm finding, and 10's are plenty exiting down there for my blood, pref low 10's...

I fixed my BD #2 with a paperclip a few years ago. Some people prefer piano wire. But many Parners don't approve. If your prototype fails on a lead it will hold a fall well, but makes a nightmare for the second to clean...

I'm no expert either. But MSR is definitely a quality local company that stands by their product. My recommendation is to take it down to the local shop. By the West Seattle bridge. They always make time for customer service. Personally I prefer to deal with the company face to face when I have issues, rather than spray all over the interweb...

Badass!!!

Alright multiple guessers out there. I almost stepped on something Sat night at the comp on the east side, (main entrance)of the Emerson events center. Worth around a hundred bucks. Guess right and I'll find a way to get it back to ya...

Nels is right. There is about half a day worth of < 5.12 in Riggins. One super sweet 10d roof thing though is worth a day if you have it. If you want 10's and 11's on rad limestone hit up Hell's it's in the neighborhood... There's a month worth there, plus awesome camping.

I've never done it myself. But a friend of mine said he found some good spots at Exit 42. I wouldn't camp at 32 at all. And the lot at 38 gets sketchy at night.

Thinkin about checking out the Cumberland crag, just lookin for something new. Anybody know if any of the walls are shaded? Preferably something under 10c trad. Thanks!

Did you try his email? I hooked up with him the next day and bought 5 ice screws for a screamin deal...

I can't say for certain about the roto-hammer, but in general Makita tools have not held up to heavy industrial construction work as well as other brands.

Great work so far! This tool has come a long way. My recommendation to suit "the second group" as you mentioned, would be to have a search ability like (>or <5.10) in the category (alpine)with location (north cascades). Or another example might be (> WI3) (WA state). I don't know if this is possible, but it would be neat to enter the desired agenda and see what comes up. Possibly things that never would've been considered...

Just 3 weeks ago the parking lot was still closed due to snow, and the entire approach was snow. Actually made the approach shorter and more fun I think. It's been melting fast, but I always bring an axe in the cascades. It's worth the weight vs getting shut down after a long walk...

Way to go!!! That one has been on my list for a while. How many of those 1/4"s with the funky hanger did you come across?

+1 for Ramuta. I even saved shipping costs by dropping off and picking up at Vertical World. Takes a little longer that way though I think it was 3 weeks. But no shipping!

Hey all. I've never done the new 5.9 corner thing on the upper town wall at Index. Somebody told me not to walk past any of the goods along the way to do it, but I'd like to judge for myself. I'm pretty sure I can find it amidst a sea of 5.12, but any beta would be greatly appreciated. Especially descent beta, 2 ropes? rap stations? bring deproach shoes? Thanks!

I like the idea of seasons. I certainly won't remember certain dates from TRs, but seasons will stick out in my mind. By the way, I love this new tool. It seems so much more effective than before. Thanks!

J. Yoder gave me that exact rope, Sterling 10.7, two winters ago when he tore his knee up Skiing. Ive only used it in place of a static line for route setting, but that's usually the most abusive thing I do to a rope. It has handled like a champ, still looks new. And I don't really notice a major weight difference. Still wouldn't drag it up to Snow creek wall though...

We climbed at Rosario last year. Just the mid 10s on the right though, not at your level. The hard 12's and low 13s look great, just not there...yet? The bolts were good on the stuff we did if that helps...

Well it's obviously not ideal. And you're right there is a great deal of risk. I guess you'd rather use girth hitched webbing or something with more grip. I still think it's a better option than lugging hangers and chain around just in case. Cheers.

2nd Billcoe. I wouldn't carry stuff like that out of habit. A couple small nuts that slide on their cables coupled with a bail biner will get you down from there in a pinch. And that stuff is much lighter/more versatile in the long run. Also if somebody stole the hangers once, you may need to replace the bolts with something harder to steal.

5.9 is a fucked up grade anyway. It runs the gamut from stupid easy to downright desperate. I'd say it's somewhere in the middle with this one, not as hard as the last pitch of Lovin arms for me or Inca roads either... But still harder than some 9's in ltown.

I'm quite certain that I could never justify anything in your eyes. Nor do I care to try. The beautiful thing about this country is that you are entitled to your opinion, and I to mine. The sad truth is that your argument could have more gravity to me if it was approached differently. I too believe that people in general are trashing this planet at every turn. I wish it were not so, but that is the terrible truth, as it has been since long before people were allowed the luxury of outdoor recreation. However bolts do not seem to me the biggest problem. On the contrary, a well bolted rappel descent from a mountain can drastically minimize foot traffic scattered about, Tat and other garbage left everywhere. And I'm currently noticing many trees like the white bark pine dying from stress of being the main descent anchor for multiple parties a day. The problem is people. Our numbers are too many, and those purely clean climbing ethics cannot handle the entire climbing population. And would you really want droves of bumblees trampling the hillsides searching for new clean lines? I think it better to leave them in their giant herds at the Feathers, where hopefully they at least develop an appreciation for the outdoors they may not have otherwise found. And leave the alpine gems like the recent "Valkyrie" to the responsible and competent few who earn them. PS I've personally witnessed those filthy sport climbers, myself included cleaning up real garbage left from partying concert goers many many times... Cheers Also back on topic. Many many thanks to Matt, and the AAC! You guys rock!

It's best not to encourage that miserable old wretch. He'll just come back spouting the same old worn out blah blah blah. If you've missed it just go to any post of his EVER and it's always the same. Somehow bolts are the environmental equivalent of plastic bags and carbon monoxide. Funny though how all that multi colored tat EVERYWHERE is somehow not litter? Cheers!

If you live near Erie, you gotta hit that up. Zigzag is the best thing there, There's one bad fall at the end of the first pitch, but the climbing is pretty easy and on jugs. The second pitch has clean falls if you protect it right, and that's a good place to learn the finer points of rope drag to gear placements relationship. There's a good 5.3 from the 60's up under summit wall. It's sandbagged but that's something you'll find with most easy gear climbs. I'd stay away from summit wall myself. Try to get a copy of Klokes "Rockin on the rock" guidebook, and you'll find tons of climbing in your backyard. Instead of half a state away. And once you're tuned in hit up the Great Norhtern slab at Index for a day...

Try to catch a glimpse of this guy. http://seattletimes.nwsource.com/html/localnews/2009390936_skunkbear27m.html