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      WELCOME TO THE CASCADECLIMBERS.COM FORUMS   11/10/22

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Quarryographer

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Everything posted by Quarryographer

  1. Petzl Equipment

    Sorry to hear about the accident. Is that croll the one that can handle real fat lines? If so, I might be interested
  2. New routes at the gun show X38?

    Tried couple new routes the Gun show today. On the far right, just above a pipe. Really cool! 11? ish. wondering if anybody out here had the names and actual grades. these were awesome! And sported top notch stainless hardware? Thanks
  3. New routes at the gun show X38?

    Nope, Tea time and Match stick nailed it. I was guessing mid 11. Yeah there's a weird cable pipe that runs down the descent over Web slinger. Thanks Rad!
  4. This makes no sense . . .

    Many folks girth hitch their Daisy to the harness, despite designers warnings. Bottom line is you should never fall onto your personal anchor. Even 2' could be horrible. This can be mitigated several ways. If multi-pitching, anchor into the rope via clove hitch. The rope is designed to absorb dynamic force. another option is the Purcell prusik for a personal anchor. This will also absorb dynamic force, albeit much less than a climbing rope... Hope that is helpful...
  5. [TR] Squire Creek Walls - Skeena 26 7/18/2014

    Very nice! That's the last area left for me to check out in Dtown, and I can't wait! Looks phenomenal! Dtown stoke!!!
  6. Little Si climbing accident

    Wow. Cray day. There was a bad fall at X38 today too. It took the ambulance an hour and a half to show up. Wish em both a speedy recovery...
  7. 2 jumars with grigri backup

    +1 for mini traxion. Backing up with a grig would be wicked slow. Check out Dosage IV, Look at the system Beth Rodden is rocking when she runs up behind TC. I doubt there's a more safe and efficient way than that yet...
  8. Secret crag..?

    Looks like the small section of decent rock in the next Coulee north of Frenchmans. My Friend Aaron Stetzer developed that area about 5 or six years ago. He also did a bunch in Tieton and Banks, before he moved to South Dakota. I'm sure he'll be stoked to hear that somebody found his climbs and are havin fun on them!
  9. Sno park permit?

    Howdy all. I was just wondering if anybody has the complete lowdown on the sno park permit rules around here. I've been googling around to see if any of the other myriad of permits will cover the places where they usually work, when not sno season. So far I've been lucky flying under the radar, but i'm wondering if I should just pony up for yet another permit. Seems a bit ridiculous... Thanks for any help.
  10. Moving to the Bay Area...need advice

    You'll e close to Turtle rock, for bouldering. Berkley has a nice bouldering area as well, with a couple routes. Pinnacles is your closest crag, be careful there, it has a bounty of old school scary runouts. Lovers leap, and Tahoe are a couple hours away in good traffic. Beware though, peak season in the Bay the locals mass exodus turning what would be a 2hr drive into more like 5. This time of year "off season" though you'll be ale to hit the Valley in about 4 to 5 hours, with little crowds. And finally to the Sierras. My personal favorite alpine area period. If only it wasn't in Cali. Try to plan midweek trips to avoid the traffic, and crowds. You'll enjoy climbing perfect granite at elevation and be in heaven. Good luck!
  11. FS- Hilleberg Keron GT 4person, 4 season tent $700

    I think the price is good, and those tents are the stuff, but it's more of a champagne taste-beer budget problem. I'd personally love to have this tent, but prob couldn't afford one any time soon. I think it's easier to shell out 300 clams on an ultralight 3 or 4 year shelter vs 7 bennies for a 3 or 4 decade home away from home. just 2c...
  12. I was not prepared...

    This late in the season that group was probably forced to go to Smith. While rude, this tactic is pretty common, and happens more frequently than anybody is prepared for. WA has a law limiting group size, but many seem to ignore it anyway. It sucks that this happened to you. My guess is "Spiderman" from your post. You could have potentially done the variation start, and beat at least some of them to the first station. Or pushed a little harder and maybe tried "Trezlar" or "Zebra Zion", both popular climbs also. That small bump in grade seems to weed out many of the total gumbies, meaning if you do have to wait, you might not have to wait as long. I personally am pretty sick of this ethic, having arrived early many times to find some group has completely taken over. My personal pet peeve is with single pitch stuff, when they show up at the crack of dawn and string ropes on everything at the wall without leading any of it, then sit back and have a picnic teaching how to put on harnesses etc. Acting like they own these routes if asked for a quick run of 2 people. In this situation it's always acceptable to ask to go first, but in my experience it's almost never granted. That park is big, with many options. Next time head up to the Marsupials...
  13. '13/'14 season stoke

    Nice! Early season stoke!!!
  14. SAVE DARRINGTON FOREST SERVICE ROADS!!!
  15. new rap station on South Face Jello tower

    The webbing sales won't be necessary, all the anchors will be bolted... =)
  16. sport climbing and erosion

    I wouldn't give the fractures in the face much thought, but the hordes of people clearly has made an impact in just about every climbing area I've seen. The rapid erosion seems to affect the drier climates more. Case in point Bbq the Pope. But it isn't selective to sport climbing only, Ltown bouldering has seen some terrible impact at some relatively new areas. Whaddyagonnado?
  17. Where to live

    Index would be great, provided you work from home. Also, Glacier falls into that category. But, if you're like the rest of us and need industry to support a job. Look into North Bend, Ellensburg, and Cle Elum as CC mentioned. Many people like to dis the 90 corridor, but for access and convenience nothing else compares.
  18. new rap station on South Face Jello tower

    Geez, this thing is still going? Vert. Thanks for the anchors! Sorry you have to be the whipping boy for all those clinging to the good 'ol days. Especially when you took the time (away from climbing) to do a community service, or at least what you thought was. I've always thought the best climbing was below there anyway. Since you're already getting flack, head on over to Index and get rid of that funky anchor on Toxic. That'll open up a whole new can of worms. bwahahhaahhaha
  19. where can I rent rock shoes in Seattle?

    Marmot in Bellevue does.
  20. Coulee Mank chain anchors

    ID10T...=)
  21. Washington Climber Weather Forecast Weather Matrix

    Not sure if it's possible, but a live doppler would be rad. Also ranking out favs in order might be nice. Great job though! I have a similar system in bookmarks tab with about 40 links. Yours is much more streamlined.
  22. Beautiful! Pics and prose, quite entertaining. Makes my first trip to the Winds this spring sound a touch dull. Though the lightning, thunder, and wet unprotectable approaches seemed epic at the time...
  23. FS: Metolius Master Cams and BD C3s

    Pm'd on a blue, yellow, and orange...
  24. Chris Greyell

    Terrible news indeed! My heart goes out to the family.
  25. Big wall visible from I90?

    Certainly choss! I've been eyeballin that one and others in the neighborhood for years. In certain light you can even see the unconsolidated nature from the road... You prob should schwack up there though to confirm it for the rest of us...=)
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