wesdyer

Thanks for the replies and ideas. Looks like there are plenty of great trips to be had, but on a daily basis I'll need to do more trail running, surfing, and mountain biking (or go to the climbing gym).

It looks like I'll probably be moving to the bay area soon, specifically the peninsula (Palo Alto area). I am already starting to feel a longing for the mountains. What are the options for crag (trad or sport) climbing, alpine climbing, and other outdoor activities (I love trail running too)? I know that there is definitely world class climbing at Yosemite, but how far away is that really? Also, it seems like the Sierras might be reachable on the weekends. Is that true? Is there climbing close by that can be used more regularly for training etc. Furthermore, I love dreaming and planning my objectives for the next year. I have no idea where to start or what I should be thinking about especially in terms of alpine objectives. For reference, I was originally excited about doing Dragontail's Backbone ridge, the North Ridge of Mount Baker, and a trip to the Bugaboos this coming summer. Finally, are there any good places to meet other climbers in the bay area besides the local climbing gyms and whatever crags are close by. Thanks for the help. I already feel very sad about leaving my beloved Washington.

I'm very sad to hear this. My heart goes out to those involved and especially family and friends of the climber. It appears that all of the local media have picked up the story. Having been involved in other reported accidents, I never know how much to trust their account of things. Some of them are reporting the climber's name. So for what it is worth here it is. Seattle Times - includes name The News Tribune - includes most comprehensive account

Jon, it was fun climbing with you at Index last week. That looks like a fun place that I'll need to visit sometime. I'm glad to see Miho getting out and getting it done.

Great writing and photos. I had no idea that poo and rangers would be the crux of my future trip to the Wind River range.

Short version: Anyone have information about Iron Cap Mountain's east ridge? Beta or Pics? Long version I'm planning a trip on the Alpine Lakes High Route. The trip is just a scramble and so I'm not bringing technical gear. Normally, the route from Tank Lakes to Chetwoot goes to Iron Cap Pass and then down a valley and up into Azurite and Azure lakes before going across to Chetwoot. Some parties choose to traverse under Iron Cap Mountain and then take the north spur which is a mellow scrambling route. I was hoping to take a more direct route via Iron Cap Mountain's east ridge, but I could find little information about the east ridge. Beckey doesn't mention it and I couldn't find any trip reports here or on other sites with distinct pictures of the east ridge. Has anyone here been up that way? What is it like? Is it 3rd/4th/low 5th? Does anyone have any pictures? Here is the east ridge seen from the NNE in Google Earth. It looks like it would go as a scrambling route, but...

I'm really thinking seriously about getting the verts between your suggestion and what I read on Dane's blog.

Yes sir. I actually noticed you were from Monroe a number of years ago (long time lurker, recent poster). We should get together sometime. I head out to Index a few times a month (was there this morning and did GM and Heart of the Country) and of course I get into the mountains as often as I can. Yes, largely but also some winter climbing in the cascades. Now that I am replacing gloves again, I'm just generally rethinking my quiver. Yeah, you are right. I can mostly keep them dry 3 season unless I get into climbing steeper snow and then I invariably stick my hands into the snow as I climb or put in placements. In winter, I really struggle to keep them dry.

Great suggestions and I really appreciate you pointing me toward Dane's blog. Thanks.

Thanks. That is super helpful.

I love the pictures, especially the alleyway between the seracs. Absolutely beautiful. Thanks for sharing.

Anyone have a good suggestion where to practice steep snow climbing safely as well as self arrest practice?

Do you mostly just use it in the winter in the PNW? Do you use it less often spring/summer/fall?

Another follow up question is what does everyone do about self rescue in a situation with a beginning climber? I know that for the vast majority of cases, I can take care of first aid, rock rescue, crevasse rescue, etc. But when I'm with newer climbers, I just try not to think too much about what would happen if I was hurt badly. Recently, I've started to climb with newer climbers in group of at least 3 so that I have someone else who can do first aid or perform rescue. Any other thoughts on this?

Good point. Most of the time that I have taken beginners out it is to do just that - have a great time in the mountains (safely). So I guess this thread is really directed towards those kinds of adventures.