LostCamKenny

as the gorge turns

or yer back

without a doubt one of the most fun and exciting climbs there! despite the bolts that protect it(there isn't anything else until you get to the pin - which appears to have moved from the first time i saw it, btw) it is not a "sport" climb. absolutely! i definitely question them since there is a great gear anchor just to the left. lazy - meh, perhaps, if you want to call yerself that, but i understand not wantign to leave gear... i'm in the lazy camp meself! but you could top out from where yer bolts are, fer sure! i totally think you should take them out. and i should also clarify that i think it isn't a bolt or a hanger that is ugly - its those damn chains! argggggg....

as long as one has blood they are a tick magnet - i can't say the same about being a chick magnet, though.

... wild country rockcentrics.

watching those two guys in "masters of stone: breakthrough" do the free-solo race up that route in under 5 minutes made me wonder just how difficult the route really was. glad there are some out there doing it the way i would try to do it... looks like a good time

Shortly before Obama's inauguration, 51 percent of Americans said they thought the facility in Cuba should be closed. Now that number is down to 39 percent, and six in ten believe the United States should continue to operate Guantanamo. ... as opposed to bringing them all here, hell yeah! keep the f-ing place open!

when i am backpacking off trail in the backcountry i will mark my trail with toilet paper so that during the next heavy rain the marks will disintegrate. btw, who makes a big deal about hikers marking their trail? if you have to do it you have to do it... get back alive any way you can! sheeeeesh... whiny hikers!

fauk-q - i expect nuthin less than a full ivan-like tr filled with descriptions of beautiful climbing, reports of the crazy shit that happens to you while you are out, and videos complete with that wailing irish-punk music you blare from yer tunebox. go get it, aethelred!

donnie, you're out of your element.. Yeah, your right but I have to agree with Kev on this one... Based on the limited information posted here, it sure looks like a chop first, ask questions later. Knowing Jim, somewhat well, I can see how he may seem in agreement when talking to him, only to find out later he really feels much different when talking about the issue when the bolter is not present. Based on what Crimper says, he went ahead thinking he had the elders approval. Yeah, I don't know all the details but it sure appears to be a rock police chop. I like the idea of an all trad area, just seems there could have been some dialogue amongst all the users to establish "the rules" for route development. Maybe that happened? I'm way out of my element but I can see the hypocrisy Kevin refers too. I hope all parties can get together and work it out, rather than turn it into yet another bolt war that nobody ever seems to win. That's all I got to say bout that... can i still borrow minus 148?

mark, i have yer purple metolius that was stuck in the wall at farside - its rusted and unserviceable, but if you'd like it back i'd be happy to give it to you...

WOW!

Really, better re-think that and go get mad at (you know who), because he did just that. i am not getting mad at anyone - yourself included, kev! "chopper" asked me what i thought about the bolts you speak of i said to him that i didn't want the farside to become the ozone (not that there is anything wrong with the ozone, as i alluded to in a previous post). the said line that you are talking about was a line that would mimic all the others at ozone, and what's to say that it would stop with that line, huh? forget about "chopper," kev, and think about people other than john, or mark, or bryan, who, i might add, may be in the minority as far as this sort of bolt strategy goes. i can think of at least a half dozen people who have put up climbs at farside/dropzone, and climb there regularly, that don't approve of this style. do their opinions matter or are they just being forgotten in all this mess? and even if john and mark were climbing there in 2006 and no one else had been there since "chopper" 25 years earlier, why does that make them the "owners" of the farside. you're right, kev... this is a very slippery slope and you're on it just as much as bill or me or anyone. choose your words very carefully my friend.

perhaps... but i wouldn't let someone chop bolts just because they said they didn't like them where they were - they'd have to convince me with good, logical reasons why they should disappear...

saw it at cinema 21 in portland about 6 weeks ago and thought it was a great piece of entertainment for the climber. the romance was an unnecessary addition to the flic, but in hindsight i'd still pay to see it again - actually i wouldn't cause it is on netflix now many inaccuracies concerning some of the story (if you look at it from the perspective of "the white spider") but it still doesn't take away from the awesome shots and emotion portrayed by the climbers/actors. in a way the viewer actually felt like they were there - that's probably as close to the nf of the eiger as i'll ever get....

donnie, you're out of your element..

kevin, i am not going to get in the middle of this except to say that i, personally, do not do anything such as what you are alluding to, without consulting with as many people as i can. that being said, i can tell you that i had nothing to do with the bolts being chopped, though i was aware that there were bolts that MANY felt should not have been set. my personal opinion on bolts is that they are a necessary piece of gear - when they are actually necessary. sport routes that are entirely bolted are not really a problem, either, as far as i see it, but i do not think that a face blank of cracks for gear is automatically a candidate for a rap-bolted sport climb. i could be convinced that drilling on lead (with either a hammer or a lil dawg) in such a situation is acceptable, however. my personal opinion on bolting at farside (dropzone, or whatever we are going to officially call the place) is that there is already one outdoor rock gym, that being the ozone. ozone is the place where rap bolting became the rule and as a result there is a climb almost every five feet. fine. i have no problem with it, but it doesn't belong everywhere and the farside is a place where i would like to NOT see climbs every five feet just because it becomes an eyesore to see ten climbs in a span of 50 feet of rock wall with twelve bolts each. farside is not ozone, nor should it become its little brother. some have tried to pick up at farside where they left off at ozone thinking that no one else would mind. at ozone it was ok since the only climbers that were going there (for the most part) could agree to this kind of strategy. but now, with farside, there are many other climber's who have opinions that must be taken in to account and respected. in this case my opinion is keep yer bolted sport climbs off this rock! keep it the way it is. if you need to put in a bolt, fine-put in the bolt, but don't turn it into the ozone just because there are edgy faces with tons of face holds reminiscent of ozone or PRG. if you want to climb those blank faces then get yerself down to one of the trees at the edge of the top of the wall, sling one of said trees with some webbing, rap down, and top rope. or - and this would be rock-on, kick-ass - lead bolt a few and leave it at that... you should not misunderstand me here: you and the rest of the ozone developers did a fabulous job putting up climbs that are great to get on - both bolted and gear routes - and you should be proud of the job you did. but my belief with respect to farside, and that of many of my regular climbing partners, is the opposite of the ozone ethic. bolts belong where nuts, cams, hexes, etc will not work but not every blank face needs to be bolted. nor should they... perfect example of bolting gone totally wrong is here: bolted anchors where they absolutely are not needed ... close-up of the gear used another close-up of the gear used kevin, i tell you this because you are my friend and i respect your work, time, money, and effort put into this community. i should hope that you can respect my opinion for this place, and understand why i want the place left the way it is. cheers, bruddah

oh, oh... how bout some banter about prescription assistance for all, in particular viagra for sex offenders?!? - how was this ever something that could ever have been voted for?

black diamond's dart for an all-day pack... if you're just gonna be out for a few hours look into the rei flash pack - its light, and has just the perfect amount of space for some water, munchies, and maybe yer approach shoes. plus, the flash is about $30!!!

mountain soles in portland does fine work too. i've taken six pairs of shoes to them over the past four years and each time they outdo themselves in every way - quality of work, service, speed, advice, and they aren't too bad on the wallet, either.

jeeeeeez... its soooo easy to listen to someone tell you this stuff. wish i could execute even an eigth as good as her. i have trouble free climbing into and out of bed - when i'm not injured!

what i would like to see is an indepth study into the frequency of douchbag presidents from texas or california and see if there is a correlation between their being elected and some sort of major nation-altering event taking place, major scandal, or war, that occurs before or after the election..... douchbagism seems to have spread pretty rampantly through our political system and doesn't appear to hold particular affinity for either party.

... rick lovelace on [one of] his speed solos of zodiac in masters of stone II: hard rock - that one always gets me going for some reason watching video of mark wellman doing anything on rock is really inspirational - the guy's legs don't work and he's still out there!!! and anything john bachar is in is well worth watching for inspirational and motivational reasons, though i wouldn't try much of what he is filmed doing... free solo's just not my bag, baby.

Ahh-haaa Get your motherfuckin' glass, cus it's a blast from the past You didn't think would touch it two times nigga Gin and Juice up in this bitch, yahhh Some of that Beats By the Pound flavor, you feel me (you heard me) Get your ice, get your cups, Cus we about to get fucked up in here Yah (yah), Straight up, Uhmm (uhmm), Yah (yah) I'm still smokin', driftin', swifta than a mothafucka Twisted off a cup of that 'ole ignat juice Heated in the seat cup fulla drank Beatin' up the block in the dark blue tank Bullet proof vest on my chest for the cause Diggin' in my draws for dem muthafuckin' laws Harrassin' a nigga, blastin' a nigga I ain't seen shit, so why you askin' nigga To fucked up off that G-I and juice, C-I get loose, nigga what chall wanna do I got a crew, but I choose to roll solo Especially on Sundays dippin' in my low-low Convertable top, spot for the glock, I ain't fuckin' with the hen dogg So toss out the soda pop. Put my shit on three wheels for thrills I hit a corner and make sure my drink don't spill, that's real [Chorus] Rollin down the street, with heat Drankin', ???, Sittin' on D's Top rolled back so I can feel the breeze Never slippin', I keep my eyes on my enemies [2X] Now trip dis', I'm on Interstate 10 fuckin' with this Creole She said she knows NINO, now stop me loc Cup of that Gin and Juice, I blank a bitch out Then turn the bitch out, look here There ain't no need for you to be wastin' my time See I picked you up, now I'm gunna stick you up, And dick you up! Give you what you need, then bring you back down to reality With that California weed, she seemed trouble at first And then it got worse, cus now I got my hand up and down her mini-skirt Twerkin' that shit while riddin' up the highway Doin' it my way, hella highway, the fly way Swervin' in another lane, tryin' to maintain And baby girl steady takin' dick to the brain Now it ain't no thing, cus she swallowed it up Then she wanted to take a puff, I said "Look here bitch you've had enough" [Chorus x2] Somebody say, I wanna get fucked up (Say What, Say What) Come on, Now Everybody say, I wanna get fucked up (What Chew Say, What Chew Say) YAH I'm hopped by the ice cream shop, The cops saw me, stopped me, heard me Were's Serv-D, well serve me, since you got that big bad ass dangle Nigga you know I'm know for havin' that big ass bank Tryin' to find all your dope, cus your a smoker I'll find that indo weed even when I'm on the East Coast Cus times gettin' hard on the boulevard, but I refuse to loose ?!?!?! Lil' Jimmy's sent me something, I need to cop something Got Some (Got Some), I know you got some Nigga stop frontin', get at your boy Hook it up like Master P (Ughh) Would it be a tragedy to fill me the best weed [Chorus x2]

idiotdittohead