stevetimetravlr

I was asleep in bed in Ellensburg. My roommate was the morning DJ, so he had gotten up early and he called me and said "The mountain just blew, get up!" so I get up and go outside and coming across the horizon at us is the scariest looking rolling cloud I have ever seen. Billowing and rolling and black. AS it came over, it got darker and darker. The streetlights came back on, and then is started snowing ash for hours. It was so quiet, everything was muffled by the ash and no one was outside moving around after a while as the ash was so thick.

maybe no avy but if its warm enough the ice chunks and rock come a flying.

Midnight Rock has my vote for best crack climbs. Probably has most of the best crack climbs in the state, along with Index.

If its a long story, we sure would like to hear it Rob. I'm calling BS, come on now...

My thoughts are that there is a good chance that the block was frost wedged off. Thru time, the frost lifted the block and evertime it melted, more and more dirt was put under the block lifting it until finally it may have pulled off in some ones hands or by itself. The photo seems to show that. If the block was taken off with a hydraulic jack, that is super uncool obviously.

Las Sportiva TC(Tommy Caldwell) Pro. Best granite trad shoe. Based on the Miura, but with comfort, fit, and stiffness added. this shoe is so comfortable to foot jam you won't even hesitate to stuff your toes in some heinous toe splitter. It costs more, and takes a little longer to put on correctly as the tongue has a tendency to fold, but it rocks!

It wasn't sewn up with pins like it is today. We were placing pins though and I remember using my bongbong on the 5th pitch, that flaring slot. Actually here is the ending. A climber had been killed over on the Index peaks that same day, so Mountain Rescue had been called in to help get the body down. They were in the area and someone called in that there were 2 climbers on the upper Town Wall in the storm so they came and set up base camp at the parking lot unbeknowse to use. We got to the top of the wall, and I was standing there in the storm coiling the rope, the wind and the rain pelting me, knowing that we were going to make it, just the descent. All of a sudden out of the darkness a helicoptor with a spotlight comes in out of the fog and puts its beam on me and holds it there. I slowly raised my arm and gave them the middle finger salute. Probably not the smartest thing I ever did, but at least they got the message that we didn't need to be rescued. When we got back to the base, the sheriff was there and grilled us, and they were all pissed off about me giving them the finger. What can I say, I was 18 and feeling studly that we had overcome and fought our way thru it all. Then as I recall, we fired up a twister in Stans truck.

My definition of epic is climbing Town Crier at Index back in the day(1977) and when just as you make it past the triple overhang pitch, a enormous storm rolls in and turns the wall into a roaring river/waterfall. You are both 18, have only one 50 meter rope, the only choice is to push on as no retreat seems possible. All cotton clothing, hanging at the belays for hours shaking uncontrollably, feeling the water sucking the heat and the life from your body as you slowly fight your way upwards knowing your time is limited if you do not keep moving. The old Whillans harness you have cuts the circulation to your legs, so that you cannot feel them anymore. Your fingers are blocks of ice, and your body is shutting down, and it becomes difficult to think clearly. As you finally top out in the dark and the storm, you realize when you had used the term "epic" in the past, you had probably not realized what it really meant. or climbing with Ivan....

WAY to get it done Ben!

Sounds like some real climbing!

Read the book "The Rock Warriors Way". and not just once, read it when you go to bed, when you have a spare moment. Get that mindset, that acceptance burned into you brain. Then go out and send.

Stevie likie

I think that plate used to be used for rope management big wall climbing. I could be wrong but it looks similar.

Are your hips wider now?

Don't sweat it. Just realize that the Haystack has been climbed on all over in winter for the last 50 years pretty regular. Backwards, and forwards, and upside down and every way you can imagine. Sometimes its epic and sometimes its a blob.

You aren't going to get wet no matter what, read again what Mountainmandoug said. If you wear all synthetic/fleece clothing, including undergarments and a waterproof/breathable shell, you're good to go. Who cares if the shell stays wet? that is what its supposed to do, its doing its job, keeping most of the water out, while the synthetic layers keep the water that does make it thru off your body. Don't wear any cotton or wool, it holds the moisture. When you wear a shell, small amounts of water pass thru but with synthetic clothing it doesn't hold it, any wool or cotton will hold the water in place longer and you will feel damp and the evaporative cooling will chill you. You can be out in the backcounty in the rain for days at a time, small tent, backpacking, climbing, whatever, and stay dry and never need to start a fire as long as you use your head and dress right. Keeping your sleeping bag and extra clothes in waterproof stuff bags in your backpack is also key, and having a large plastic garbage sack to keep your pack in doesn't hurt.

Nice one!

Thank you all for kind words, it was so long ago but not in my mind. Man I loved that dog. The motorcycle did crash, it went down and slid for aways. A guy and gal, they had on leathers and didn't get hurt and though the guys bike was scraped he told the cop he didn't want to file a claim or anything, and he apoligized to me even though it wasn't his fault. He felt bad and it gave me new respect for bikers. The cop was a Grade A asshole. he was making jokes about dead dogs and slamming me and i don't think he realized how close he came to pushing me over the top. I've never lost control before but that time was right on the edge. It is time I went back to Castle, so hopefully this summer as so many good times there. Leavenworth rocks. Anyone know, did Midnight get closed due to raptor nesting again this year?

I walked away from Castle in the summer of 1980 and didn't go back. I was climbing there regularly and had taken some folks on upper Castle for a run on some routes, and left my dog in the care of a friend on Logger Ledge. He decided to go down to the parking lot and took my dog. My dog Luke chased a chimpmunk out into the road and was hit by a motorcycle. The cycle skidded but was fine but Luke was killed. I came down to a cop reading me the riot act and laughing about it as he threatened to write me a ticket. I really almost lost it and punched the cop, which for some reason he seemed to be trying to provoke me. I went over to the ditch and found Luke, bloody and covered with ants, and brushed him off and took him home and buried him and haven't climbed there since even though I loved the place. Maybe its time. I still miss Luke.

Rick Graham worked as a guide for ZigZag River Runners as I recall, but was out in the hills allot..

Sounds like Rick Graham.

Has allot to do with how fit you are. Early morning would be good.

Protect the wide right side start to Free for All, everybody needs a set of these. http://home.pacbell.net/takasper/slcd/index.html

The Fish ledges are generally quite a bit smaller then the other ones, especially widthwise, pretty cramped for two unless they are small people. If you order a Fish, you should tell Russ how big you are and have him custom fit it for you for sure or you will not be happy. That said, the Fish ledge goes togather pretty quick once you get some practice with the sequence and breaks down in a couple minutes.

Surprise you boys didn't get arrested for "Aiding and Abetting" hahahaho