stevetimetravlr

If we have a mild spring, this might be the time for doing a bunch of North side Beacon routes. Topo would be nice? or do you guys just find a old pin and start climbing?

When you have a brand new dry treated rope, it can be dangerous. It doesn't take much to scuff them up enough so that they loose that slickness, but right out of the bag they are so slippery that they will sometimes shoot thru a grigri like grease. So be extra wary with brand new dry treated ropes when you belay. the smaller the diameter the greater the odds of them slipping, but I guess that goes without saying.

Is the north area that chossy broken area to the right of the trail as you come down from the summit trail almost to the parking lot? I have always thought that right as you hit the lot right above the water fountain is some super looking rock, but its closed? Why? Seems like its great rock and great location close in, with potential up above it also.

drag the whole rope thru a belay device a few times with someone on the other end and that should knock some of the shine off the rope. I think if you really fell on the silent partner it would lock the knot up. But I still think you need to have your rope scuffed up a bit for a little insurance.

I agree, closing of Young Warriors is a little far fetched to protect nesting birds on the other side of Beacon Rock. Not sure why they can't open it. As long as everyone stays on the east side of the SE corner route, it doesn't seem like it would be much of a problem. I bet Joe H. would know why they don't open it?

if you clip it with a long runner and come off at the butthole, you'll be taking a longgggg plunge. except maybe if the crappy gear below the butthole holds, but I wouldn't put any odds on that happening. Has anyone ever fallen at that spot and had gear hold? As my feeling is that if you fall there with gear, you may bring the whole heap down on you. I always do it in two pitches myself, as the rope drag sucks and thats the last thing I myself want as Im pulling up to and over the butthole on those scary chossy flakes. I pretend like I'm a fairy, tip toeing up thru them...butterfly wings, magic wand, pink slippers, the whole shebang, works everytime.

Lite? as in the loafers? I'm not saying that because of those spandex pants you wear Joe...really....

I guess I go straight over the bolt,on that featureless slab you mean? The move is so short it doens't seem to qualify when there are climbs like Blownout at Beacon rated 10a. but then i don't think Blownout should be rated 10a, I think its more like 10c, that final traverse move at the top.

Guys, the reason I said it was 5.6 in the video was because I thought I was on Broadway from looking in the old guidebook. Only later did I find out I was on Young Warriors. At the time I thought it seemed a little stiff for a 5.6, but contributed it to messing with my solo device and backup knots. Now I've done Young Warriors about 5 times and I think the grades are.. pitch 1- 5.8 pitch 2- 5.9 PG pitch 3- 5.9+(if there weren't 2 fixed pins, this section I would say 10a as you would have to hang out and place gear) pitch 4- 5.9 pitch 5- 5.7 What a awesome route.

Be the ball Danny...

Colchuck Glacier route is a breeze when its all covered by snow, like now and early season. No spikey deals on your feet needed. but when the snow melts back to expose the ice underneath late spring, it can get a little treacherous. the main ice sheet is about half way up on the left.

Have a leash on your ax, you don't have to use it, just keep it looped on the head of the ax. There are certainly instances where it is nice to have a lease, such as glacier climbing. You fall in a crevasse,its nice not to have your ax go to the bottom. Mixed terrain also, you don't want to loose your ax down the hill when you need it for the descent. Most of the time you don't need to use a lease,but there are those times and if you slip and loose your ax, see ya!@! But a waist lease is not cool unless using ice tools. and I agree with Kenny!

Peshastin has some fun crack climbing. How about A-Crack, Catacombs, Vertigo, Lightening Crack, Nirvana Ridge. Really good slab climbing there though, thats where Peshastin shines.

I DID notice you were using a biner brake.

You need to ask for theft insurance, as the bare basic is liability which is standard in my experience. Anything more you got to request it. I think however if you pay for an alarm service and the alarm went off and the sheriff was not notified, then you have a case. UNLESS, your phone line was cut or your phone out of order. In your best interests, I would have a independent party(like a comunications company) investigate if phone was in working order and find out ASAP where the ball was dropped. If the alarm went to the monitoring company and they somehow did not notify the police, they are responsible for your loss as you have a contractural agreement with them. If you phone was out of order due to the phone company, then seems like they are responsible

Sorry to hear it. I always try to support your shop when I pass thru, even if its just a biner purchase or drink or chalk. One request, when you go to re-stock the ropes, maybe carry a selection of the bi-color 60 or 70 meter, like the duodess or similar. I lve these ropes where the color or pattern changes in the middle of the rope versus having a middle marker, and its all I use anymore.

Hey Dave, Yep, climb with Rick often. Looks like I won't be at Beacon today but did get out yesterday out east cragging. Rock was still pretty wet as the sun didn 't stay out long but it was warm at least.

If doing the standard north ridge ascent, the trickiest part of the climb is the descent. So when deciding which couloir, choose wisely. Stuart and its north ridge is one of the most classic of mountains, enjoy!

Fricking rain.....

Ok Pope, lets see the photos from Midnight. Also, are you saying Pat Timson is a wuss for putting up a bolted route? Just curious....

I have to disagree you need that gear. No need for rope, crampons, or ice ax on the south side route. Bring plenty of warm clothes and shell and good boots, it can be like the Artic up there when its 70 degrees down below. But it is just a hike, they used to take mules loaded with ore up and down it. You will want to do it in good weather and watch the clouds as you climb and skedaddle down if they approach if you don't have good route finding skills. As if you get in a white out on the summit or false summit or somewhere in between, you could get off route into advanced terrain but thats unlikely if you are paying attention.

I was going to see how the weather turns out Dave, but was thinking give it time to warm up and dry off a bit, so maybe 10 am or so? Not sure if Young Warriors or Dods or Jills would be in shape? Might be relegated to the SE corner. I will probably need a partner also, so was were you thinking Dave?

Looks like a window of opportunity for all the Beaconrawk hounds on Thursday-Friday. Forecast of sunshine, so hopefully might be dry for a bit and might see you guys out there. After that, i think its closing up for the season. Then you guys will have to hit me up for some climbing out here on the east end of the Gorge. got the goods last week, 3 stellar pitches before the sun went down and the rain came again. As long as there is sun out east here, its pretty darn nice even if its cold as the rock soaks up the heat.

Some Grizzlies in North Cascades and other areas near Canada, thousands of black bears and mountain lions everywhere else. Best not to go into the woods, as they can jump on your back and rip your throat out and feast on your liver. Nothing to be to concerned about, I worry more about the boogie man under the bed at night myself personally. But then I try to make allot of noise when bushwacking, I don't go into berry patches unless alert, and don't wear deoderant or cologne hiking or backpacking and also don't pack tuna or meat sandwiches or anything to pungent on me.

Holy sheep shit, that rope is orange! brrrrrrrrrr, much warmer at Club Sport yesterday then Beacon I am here to tell you.