stevetimetravlr

just walked in the door from rapping Jills Thrill in a rain storm and I was jill thrilled for the rap slings/rings as it makes it so nice to pull the ropes, all 4 raps. I had intended to top out but it rained hard. So Joseph if you want to put webbings and rap rings on rap anchors, who am I to protest it. I am all for it, stoked. I was all fired up for Riverside and had extra gear, but just as I started up to the base of it, the skies unleased and had to scurry for cover to LOLP.

Dave, you're going to give Joseph a stroke, poor guy.

Hey! aren't you the guy doing all the first ascents up at Index and Mt Si? Im not sure how rap rings are any safer or less complicated then rap hangers or chains.

I prefer rap anchor hangers instead of chains. I just thought chains are better then webbing is all. I'm to broke and lazy to do anything myself personally. Its way easier to set at my computer and taunt the guys who are out doing all the work like Joseph and Bill and Jim.

It doesn't matter to me really one way or another, but for maintenance and weather resistance and vandalism resistance, it seems chains make more sense. I think just plain rap hangers on the bolts actually would be the best. I vote for rap hangers. ok, the ay's have it...

Chains suck more then webbing? ok..

I know when I went up there last season I couldn't find any real gear placements on that mossy pitch, but I did see a bolt stud with no hanger. I heard (from you)that you had chopped any bolts on that pitch and were removing that last stud as well. Seemed like it would have been prudent to leave one bolt halfway up but the bolt police thought otherwise! Its easy climbing for sure, just mossy chossy. Evidentally the bolts were needed more next to a crack on the other side of Beacon, but now they will be gone also. It seems bolts at Beacon cannot be considered "fixed gear", as they come and go. I am not complaining, just observing. Also, I climbed over that big rock on Young Warriors last week and didn't send it off, whats it going to take, Ivan with a crowbar? Also, you didn't mention why you rigged nylon instead of chains on the rap anchors? Chains are more maintenance free and long lasting, and it seems like you are having people cut the nylon off. Didn't that happen on the se corner last season as well? Again, I'm no expert, just curious as to the reasoning.

Makes sense I guess. Bolt chopping I was referring to upper Dastardly where leaving one bolt would have been nice just in case someone slips or something. You fall from up there you will go for the big ride. Then you were talking about chopping the bolts in the rock scar. I'm not against keeping them or chopping them, I was just saying. Also, why not chains instead of nylon? You are the anchor expert, so I am not questioning the decision but just curious. Seems like it is to easy for someone to cut the webbing and take the SS ring, but nobody would mess with chains.

now thats a video! Great TR and music

The only drawback to the TC Pro that I have found is that it is difficult to get it on without the tongue having a little fold in it which makes it painful to wear. So you have to be very careful putting it on. I have to turn the shoe almost sideways to get it on right so the tongue lays flat. But once its on, oh the comfort is sweet! It does it all. It is not quite as sensitive as the Mirua but that little bit of sensitivty loss is more then enough trade off for its all aroundness. Wait till you do a foot jam with the TC Pro, it is padded and you can just crank off your foot jams. Pretty impressive shoe.

Good job!

Who raps Young Warriors? Never seen anyone rap it except some chick who had dropped her phone from top of the 2nd pitch, and if they do, isn't the bolt hangers good enough for the rare time that they do? Seems wierd to me to be chopping bolts all over Beacon, but then have colored webbing setups at anchor points rarely used for rapping. Not trying to be nagative, but just curious what the reason is? I am ready to be enlightened...

I remember the Walker Valley boulders as a pretty mossy place. Huge boulders but it seems like the landings there would be gnarly if you were bouldering as you would fall onto other rocks. We just rope climbed. Dallas Kloke posts on here and he wrote the guide to the place. Myself, I don't know anything about Equinox rock.

Have you done the regular route up Garfield, Raindawg? The hazardous enigma? or just blowing smoke?

Good photo, thank you.

.

Right on, Riverside looks great! I am pretty sure thats the climb Rick said was Diagonal, as it had a small roof that I saw that appears to be the same one in the photos. It is kind of confusing up there...

Wow

Was that you hanging on the skyline over near Young Warriors on Friday Joseph with some sort of bag under you? me and Rick ran up to take a gander at the 10b Ivan had cleaned, but the one I thought it was Rick said was Diagonal Desperation or somesuch so still not sure which climb it was.

I'm sure, unless I'm blind... The one that is there is the one that you clip right before the crux, and then I thought the other one was higher up but can't remember exactly where it was, I just remember there were 2.

I was talking about the 3rd pitch near the top where you angle up right and there is a couple crimpy technical moves and there used to be 2 old pins there to protect it and now there is 1. No evidence the other was ever there. Some one had to have pulled it.

Did there not used to be 2 pins at the crux of Young Warriors? Now just one. I was sure there was 2 last Fall. Way to go Ivan and Dave firing up Dods/Dastardly yesterday, those boys were out getting burly, getting er done!

You feel like you got something done after Chimney Rock. Way to rock it, great TR!

I was referring to this sweeping generalization.

does "the man" wear Lycra becaUSE i saw some dude....he said he was The man but I question it....