stevetimetravlr

Aloha Adam! Take care of that sweetheart Penelope and maybe where you're going you can buy a trailer from this guy. Maybe we'll get a chance to do Stuart. http://www.glumbert.com/media/honestmobilehomecommercial

Ropes that don't have a dry treatment tend to fuzz up more and seem thicker after they have been used a bit, then ones that have a dry treatment. In my experience that is. Got to love that dry treatment!

Very sorry to hear this. My condolences to his family. Thank you Monty for your work and support of Mountain Rescue, you will be missed

Rowdy approach ey? I remember this approach was brutal back before the big fire, I wonder how it compares to now. Good job bagging the summit same day.

Right on!

A block of teriyaki baked tofu and a cup of coffee. Easy to choke down, fires you up, and stays with you.

Why not replace the pin with another pin if a bolt is so controversial?

I know of 2 people dropped with 9.7-9.8 ropes with a grigri. They said the ropes were new so extra slick but still something to be aware of.

You can use a grigri with the 10.2 but not with the 9.7. Nothing under a 10 m when using a grigri. I always favor a burlier rope, and like Kenny said the dry treatment is the way to go.

I imagine he called it a helicoptor because I was rapping with the haul bag and the wind was howling fierce and I was spinning like a top coming down.

The locals don't even climb at Broughton.

Holy shit. Awesome TR.

You guys don't need experienced climbers to summit Rainier really. you can follow the trail to the summit. Just in case, practice a pulley haul setup in case someone goes in a big crack in the snow and make sure you have redundant gear with you. In other words, if the pulley goes into the ice with the climber, it will be real hard to use it up top. Other then that, its all about getting up real early and and getting going and being in shape to do the hike. Send it when conditions are ripe!

Gulp!

Great photos and TR!

Thanks Joseph. You just re-confirned everything that I said.

I think Joseph that your negativity has done more to generate animosity towards Beacon Rock policies then the policies themselves, and it does not become you nor does it benefit the Park or the climbers. You act like a Ranger towards the climbers, and a climber to the rangers, when in fact you are neither.

It sounds like the guys were already on the route and climbing when they spotted the dead body in the trees, the guy obviously deceased. They finished the route and reported the body. It is sad the bears got to the body, but when someone is dead, they are dead and reporting the body a couple hours sooner would not have brought the person back. There generally is no urgency unless it is a crime, and probably it seemed pretty obvious that it was not.

I've been a wondering about this climb. Looks good when looking at it from I-84. Possible potential for other long routes?

yeah, buy a Portland area rock climbing guidebook from your local climbing shop. Thats a start.

joseph, you can't be serious.

Hi Alasdair I guess I don't see a big difference between a "government employee" visiting a raptor nest and a climber. A climber would try to stay away from the nest while it seems your interest was in getting close and photographing it. I don't mean to come down on you, but it seems hypocritical of us to forbid one user group but allow another. I can appreciate your efforts to stop blanket closures, so if that is the results of your efforts, I support it. and on that bet you offered, you'd loose.

Joseph, I remember a month or so ago when this was discussed you seemed to keep telling people to not rock the boat, that this is the best situation we can hope for, etc. So that is not really a pro active position, and although I and many other people appreciate your efforts for Beacon, I don't think there is anything wrong with wanting to change a policy that is obviously way over the top. There are many areas where peregrines nest where the restrictions are not so restrictive. A more balanced approach might be in order. Nothing wrong with working towards that. Remember, LostCamKenney was injured and still is due to the fact that the current policy that relegates climbers to an very dangerous section of Beacon and seals off any of the standard climbing areas, even the Young Warriors section that is on the far side of the rock from the peregrine nest. This does not appear to be a common sense policy from any viewpoint, and with some dialogue with the powers to be perhaps this could be changed. But you keep telling people that we shouldn't hope for more, best we can hope for, etc. I am not sure why and really that does not appear to be an approach that most climbers support.

So we as tax payers get to pay people to "do research" on Golden Eagles and its ok for them and WDFW to disturb the birds, but its not ok for climbers who would not purposely climb to a nest to climb in the area near them. Very strange times we live in. What the heck is there left to "study" anymore we didn't know 30 years ago? I really find it intersting Alasdair you lecturing us "climbers" about the responsibility we have to avoid disturbing these birds while in the same breath you talk about how you disturb multiple nests as part of a WDFW project.

Steve: Well I didn't vote for you. King Joseph: You don't vote for kings. Steve: Well how'd you become king then? [Angelic music plays... ] King Joseph: The Lady of the Gorge, her arm clad in the purest shimmering samite held aloft Excalibur from the bosom of the water, signifying by divine providence that I, Joseph, was to carry Excalibur. THAT is why I am your king. Steve: [interrupting] Listen, strange women lyin' in ponds distributin' swords is no basis for a system of government. Supreme executive power derives from a mandate from the climbers, not from some farcical aquatic ceremony. You can't expect to wield supreme executive power just because some watery tart threw a sword at you. If I went 'round sayin' I was Emperor, just because some moistened bitch lobbed a scimitar at me, they'd put me away. Lost Cam Kenny: Come and see the violence inherent in the system. Help! Help! I'm being repressed! Joseph: Bloody peasant! Lost cam Kenny: Oh, what a giveaway! Did you hear that? Did you hear that, eh? That's what I'm on about! Did you see him repressing me? You saw him, Didn't you?