stevetimetravlr

I posted on ST that the main flake hold on the SE corner 2nd pitch is loose and Joseph H mentioned that I should post it here. A week ago I pulled on it, and it shifted dramatically in my hand, scary. I did the climb again yesterday and it did not move at all. So not sure what is going on with it, but heads up if you are soloing.

Hey, I was climbing at Beacon yesterday and the only one out, whats up with that. A little rain throw the cabash on it all? Pretty sketchy free climbing in those conditions I have to say. Anyway, I see a bunch of the guys I have met up there post here. Its great to have met you guys this year up on the ledges. Jim, Scott, Kenney, Joseph, Ivan. Jim I have ran into a bunch, the guy is always on it. Scott I met you when you were climbing with Jim. Joseph, only saw you opening day but sure you been getting it done. Kenney, you are a funny guy and last I saw you we had come off the ledge and Rick had led up by headlamp, and you guys were hanging waiting your turn. Ivan, you were up on the solo aid route, so never got a chance to shoot the bull with you, but good job. Stoked to be back climbing at Beacon this year with Rick and looking forward to many more days this Fall. I still have not met Bill Coe but someday. Rock on.

whenever you got to break out the chain saw for poison oak, look out!

Would you be into doing The Nose? I will be down about that time. I am looking for a partner for the Nose or the West Face of the Leaning Tower. Steve

I don't know kevin but will donate some items from my antique stores for his cause. Thanks for promoting this.

Cool mon, I will check it out today up and right but might end up doing the b-hole variation again since i don't really know where I'm going up there. I remember looking far left and it looks all lichen covered and does not look like anybody has been out there much.

I didn't notice the direct variation straight up from the anchors, but will check it out next time. There is a bolt stud and it just needs hanger put on?

I agree with you about it being mostly phychological pro in that section. The flakes to the left had some nice placements but the booming sounds when you slap the flakes is a little unnerving so.... The choss is quickly forgotten however when you reach the crack and start jamming, sweet sweet jams. I tried not to pull down or out on any of the flakes, but as my partner said that he was sure there were heavier guys then me that had been thru there, so should be good to go. and i was.

Hi Joseph Did Young Warriors today and found this blog so thought I would comment. On the second pitch when you get to the face above the 3rd bolt with the chossy flakes on either side, there is a slot right in the face in front of you about 8 feet below the b-hole that takes a horizontal purple cam nicely. I normally don't place them like that, but it fit and locked well. Then like you said,you can get a good cam in once you reach the finger crack above. Cams in the flakes on either side look like if you fell you might bring that whole pile of flakes down, and i think that is where most people place them? Man what a great climb.

Hey mon, I would be up for Beacon next week midweek, SE face or any of the other routes. Can lead, have gear, will travel. This week I am out of town but normally available if you need a partner.