stevetimetravlr

I love the climbing mags. They bring me up to date on the latest gear, routes, happenings, cool stuff. For instance, this months Climbing features the Index Town walls and a blurb on the history of it. It talks about how Green Dragon has been free climbed by Justin Sjong. Also shows a pic of a guy named Jens pulling down hard on the 4and 5th pitches freeing it. Is this the same Jens who posted here? If so, Jens you burly dude, did you free the thing? I can't imagine free climbing that, climbing 5.12 over micro brassies? Did Justin do it ground up or did he TR some sections first? Doesn't seem like the kind of thing you could on-site. Son of a ....also, Tommy C. and Chris S. make closer to 100k a year then 20k now, the times they have a changed. More power to them.

Who really gives a crap about what people do or say about their climbing or climb. If you are out there trying to break a speed record or free a aid route, I can understand the competition. But most folks spray a little becasue they had fun or were scared or whatever. How does that lessen what other people do? I have found that the best climbers in the world are also the least ego centered people and offer the most encouragement and beta, that should tell you something. Why would sponsorship be a sin? If you are good enough to be sponsored, more power to you.

Index, the closest thing to Yosemite, and only 4 hours from Portland instead of 13. Training at Index, you can go to the Valley and deal. The wide abides. There had to be one benefit topping out at midnight, you didn't have to wait in line to go down the cables with the masses. Not many people get the top of Half Dome to themselves, you DOG!

You guys are hilarious. so does Wrong Gull go up the leftside of those big detached columns below Right Gull's upper section?

Way to get it done Scotty! Hey, the fact that you were out even thinking about climbing the day after Snake Dike is major kudos! The day after we climbed Snake Dike me and my partner went to Tuolumne to climb, and it took him 1/2 hour to hike a 5 minute approach, and then he just laid there and moaned. I felt just as bad so we did one pitch and called it a day.

Beacon is great, very classic and sporting. Dave McCrae getting it done on Blownout.

Cool, I will check out the Village route next time there. More traversing then this? Rick Harrell aiding the beautiful first pitch of Dana's Arch. It goes free at 11b but we wanted the hook practice.

I am in agreement. If the law says no fixed pins without a permit, then thats the path we need to follow. I was young and stupid and railed against authority, but it doesn't really help matters I found out the hardway. As climbers, I think we all want basically the same thing for Beacon and those that are willing to work in all our best interests, we should cut them some slack. even if we don't agree with all their opinions. Heres a parting shot from last week:

When I looked at that anchor setup, my thought was you could haul a brick shithouse off it. Obviously well maintained, in a lovingly overkill kind of way, you could almost see the artiste signature. Hard to believe anyone would think they would need to replace it.

I've notice that more people climb that route at 11d, then Masterpiece Theatre to the left at 11c. In fact, I've never seen anyone on Masterpiece Theatre and wondered why. Considering MT, but does anyone know why it doesn't get climbed much?

Joseph, I guess I'm showing my ignorance about the whole process. Thanks for the info. I understand what you're saying, it just seems overkill, but of course there are bigger forces at work here, and I guess left unchecked who knows what would happen.

damn, good point Ivan! Better break out my ballpoint and my hammer. Does the aid route to the left of the ledge top out? Whats it go at? Any special gear, all clean or what?

I agree with what you say Joseph about pins. Although not all pins stay in that long, many do I guess. I don't understand why a permit is needed to leave a fixed pin, or to climb a new route? Seems like micromanaging on that level just increases paperwork, management costs, on and on. What is the benefit to a permit for a pin? Was there a big problem with people leaving fixed pins? I am not trying to be contrary, but really trying to understand the concept of a permit for a fixed pin, just seems extreme. Is there anywhere else where you need a permit for a fixed pin? It also sounds a little like what i call "make work" where a park employee needs a job, and permiting pins gives them more reason for their job? Seems like in this day and age we need to be cutting costs and paperwork. Again, I am 100% behind you and the crew that have worked with the ranger staff on Beacon, but just trying to grasp the concept of pin permitting.

I can state that the bolts on Dana's Arch first pitch are good and not Kong Bonatti. I think they must have been replaced in the mid 90's?

yeah mon, me and Rick were having a good time that day! We haven't been out at Beacon lately as we went to Index last week for 3 days aid climbing on the upper Town wall, Green Dragon and Dana's Arch, then free climbing on the lower wall. I love that place. I did Town Crier back in 1978 and againt this spring, and to go there brings back a ton of memories, most of which make me wet my pants. I think the weather window is closing on the season for both Index and Beacon, but still hope to get out and get some more stuff done at Beacon. Me and Rick were talking about doing Ground Zero after hearing about Scotty doing it, and seeing Ivan on it. Looked righteous, one more window is all we ask!

I am starting to figure out this website, so found this thread. Its really true you have to submit a application for a "fixed" pin? What constitutes a fixed pin really? Pins by their nature are not really permenant, right? I can see a app for bolts but pins? That seems to me to be taking micro mamagement to a new level, and for what reason? Where else do they control pin placements? What happens if you can't get a piece out,you are in violation and can be subject to a fine? Please don't get me wrong, I am very appreciative of those people who have put efforts into Beacon climbing and structure, but I was shocked to hear this. Not that I bring pins out to Beacon, but it just seems like a bunch of paperwork and red tape for what is achieved? What is the purpose of filing a permit for a fixed pin? Why would anyone care, especially if it can be removed? Stupid questions perhaps, but I am a little dense from banging my head against the rock and that second session.

At Index the train is not right under the cliff(lower Town Wall) like at Beacon. It sets back quite aways, and doesn't shake the crag like at Beacon where you can almost feel the ground tremors coming up. Upper Town Wall is almost a mile away from the train. So I was not imagining when I pulled on the horn and it moved on SE corner! Its why I suggested that glueing that hold might be a possibility. I know that goes against all that is good and right in this world, but seems like if it was so save that crucial section from deteriorating, it might be the way to go. ok, go ahead and blast me guys......just back from 3 days at Index climbing with Rick, man that place is burly.

Hey Ivan, when you get up to the base of Half Dome approximately where the climb starts, walk all the way to the right, crossing over a small gully and then it becomes obvious where the climb starts as there is a good belay platform there and you can see the dike and the first little overhang and all.

I posted on ST that the main flake hold on the SE corner 2nd pitch is loose and Joseph H mentioned that I should post it here. A week ago I pulled on it, and it shifted dramatically in my hand, scary. I did the climb again yesterday and it did not move at all. So not sure what is going on with it, but heads up if you are soloing.

Hey, I was climbing at Beacon yesterday and the only one out, whats up with that. A little rain throw the cabash on it all? Pretty sketchy free climbing in those conditions I have to say. Anyway, I see a bunch of the guys I have met up there post here. Its great to have met you guys this year up on the ledges. Jim, Scott, Kenney, Joseph, Ivan. Jim I have ran into a bunch, the guy is always on it. Scott I met you when you were climbing with Jim. Joseph, only saw you opening day but sure you been getting it done. Kenney, you are a funny guy and last I saw you we had come off the ledge and Rick had led up by headlamp, and you guys were hanging waiting your turn. Ivan, you were up on the solo aid route, so never got a chance to shoot the bull with you, but good job. Stoked to be back climbing at Beacon this year with Rick and looking forward to many more days this Fall. I still have not met Bill Coe but someday. Rock on.

whenever you got to break out the chain saw for poison oak, look out!

Would you be into doing The Nose? I will be down about that time. I am looking for a partner for the Nose or the West Face of the Leaning Tower. Steve

I don't know kevin but will donate some items from my antique stores for his cause. Thanks for promoting this.

Cool mon, I will check it out today up and right but might end up doing the b-hole variation again since i don't really know where I'm going up there. I remember looking far left and it looks all lichen covered and does not look like anybody has been out there much.

I didn't notice the direct variation straight up from the anchors, but will check it out next time. There is a bolt stud and it just needs hanger put on?