marc_leclerc

[video:youtube]kZUPCB9533Y [video:youtube]ZpjyH-LkEAg&feature=related

The Death Route was classy... albiet a bit too intense for me to really enjoy... I mean the dirt was steep and collapsing and shen all hope seemed lost as I was abouto fall with my only pro being a RURP 80ft below me I dynoed to a tiny moss nubbing mono and mangaed to stick the 5.15 crux.... so gnarly,

They seem to be really useful on harder gritstone routes.... I was planning on picking up a set before I go to England... i can see them being good for clean aid too, less scary than an RP catching on a crystal too small to see

Thanks... It took me about 3 weeks of intermitent rapping down, looking for holds, trying sequences... training my mono and crimp strength, flexibility, TR'ing then finally trying to link...... I've never had to work this hard to train up to and figure out a route. I more or couldn't do any of the moves when I started trying it... because of the style of the climibng its really hard to give a definite grade, and it all needs confirmation. but I gave it a 5.13a for now, I've been on lots of other climbs that grade and I think this is definitely on par... but we will see with attempts and hopefully some repeats.

Nice work.. good to hear your shoulder is healing up nice and strong! Here's is the raw footage of my send. Pretty shaky... taken by Tamara's 12 year old brother, hene some funny comments. [video:vimeo]10492007

Wow.... crazy! Hope for a speedy recovery!

I surprisingly sent the Matrix Slab today.... I got a little vid I can post too.... later.

I use my Osprey Soloist, I go really light. I like it!

Thanks. Yeah, I think that is the only place I've camped in the whopping 2 times I've been passing through. I slept in the Cacadaemon Cave for a few night last time I was there.... free! Nice spot too... if you dont mind the occasional mouse. For moderates... are you all forgetting The Smoke Bluff Connection! That thing is really fun. Also, Merci Me is good, and if you climb 5.10b you can climb the Split Pillar then rappel.

After climbing on Baker, stopping at the Graham's Restaurant in Glacier is rad!

Guys like Roger do not count..... we are talking about humans here, not mutants...

Well I was there today, I know all the moves now! There are two cruxes, a crazy highstep rockover at bolt #2... and the deadpoint to the mono at bolt #3. Its funny how both cruxes require totally different strengts!

no, on a good edge on the face.... close to the corner.... you will see when you go look at it sometime.

your first time to Squampton? So much fun there!!!

Commited Vol 2: Pete Whittaker on the FA of 'Dynamics of Change', with the 13c feet above his head rockover with potential groundfall. And Jorgeson's repeat of The Groove in 'Progression' is radical! and on the BD website, with Caldwell and Jorgeson on the El CAp project, sticking the 8ft sideways dyno! [video:vimeo]10181825

He will let me know when I'm old enough to buy beer

that would be insane... my feet got so pumped and I thought I would fall off using the Makita Drill... and that only took a couple minutes! Especially on the Matrix Project...

Trip: Harrison Bluffs.... - Lead Bolting 101 Date: 3/20/2010 Trip Report: So I thought I would put this up.. just to follow up my 'how to lead bolt?' thread a while back. I had a couple projects I wanted to bolt, and one I wanted to actually send... and Scott called me up as he wanted to get some photography in on Saturday. Scott has a drill, so it just worked out perfect! Tamara came out to belay and I just hopped straight on Proj #1. This one I had originally wanted to highball as it is only 20ft of hard moves before it joins another bolted route, but the landing is brutal and a friend mentioned it would never get traffic if I made it sketchy, so I decided to make a compromise and lead bolt it!. I climbed up a decent stance and Tamara was actually able to hand me the drill by standing on a tree stump uphill from the base, and I put the only bolt in, surprisingly hard to do from a 'not perfect' stance. I went for it and fell at the crux, lowered pulled the rope... fell again.. tried again and sent! Called it Midget Love' and it goes at solid 5.12, with one hand slap on an arete and tricky sequential feet. I thought I was going to fall on every move as I could feel my feet slipping, but I moved fast enough to just scrape by. After the crux there is a wee runout on easier ground to where another route joins the arete and you get a couple more bolts.. classic! then Tamara took off to go work and another friend who was clibming came out and gave me a belay on 'The Matrix Project', the slab I was reffering to in my lead bolting thread earlier. There are intense boulder problems between decent stances in pockets, so I could pull the drill up and bolt between hard sections and it ended up being like a regular sport climb for the first third, then you can just go for it and punch through 15 feet of really desperate moves without worrying about hitting the ground until you reach out into a crack and have easy moves and good pro to the end. I got all the bolts in but had to stand on a lower bolt to put in the last one as I started slipping and didnt want to fall with the expensive drill... I am not even close to sending it though, it is by far the harderst slab I have ever been on, absolutely desperate! Lead bolting is hard, thats all I have to say Thanks everybody for helping me out and I am stoked on the new line and the new proj!!! FA of Midget Love... awesome fun! Just hanging out... I look like a cocoa puff... Tamara is always happy... The Matrix Project.. so sick! Totally doable but absolute desparate, long term project for sure. purty colors I will get more pics up when I get them...

The Mighty Tooth!

Squamish - All fairly easily TR able. March of the Kitchen Utensils Bop Till You Drop Boogie Till You Puke (HARD!!!) Hypertension Split Beaver Neat and Cool Offwidth If you walk around the bluffs you might see other wide unpopular gaping cracks that want to swallow you whole and eat you alive.....

sicky TR and pics!

I bouldered today.. IT WAS SICK!!!!

yeah that rope is incase we have to rap... works fine. We brought it becasue it was his first multi...

Nice rating.... should just be 5.9 A2

I stubbed my toe wearing flip-flops... and it took an hour and a half longer tahn it should have. Thats about it.... it waas actually dark when we got to the crawl section of Belygood right before the end... that was really scary in the dark!