marc_leclerc

Yeah, The Pillar is more aesthetic to look at... and a longer continious pitch, but all the moves are the same for the most part. The Sword has laybacking, a cruxy rock over with the pro a ways below your feet... big exposure on huge jugs, then a short enduro corner to finish. so sick! G- He wore his old shittier shoes for the walk down.... he didnt want to carry his skate shoes in the pack, although it would have gone along well with the jeans and the beer we had on top of the Pillar

Trip: Squamish - - Grand Wall & more.... Date: 2/22/2010 Trip Report: So my buddy Nick and I went to Squampton and climbed fri-sun taking advantage of the sunny and warm weather they were having. We slept in the Cacoedemon Cave all three nights, sleeping on crash pads wich was pretty luxury Day 1: Young Blood, 5.13. I got to the top but no clean send... [video:facebook]346627700700&ref=mf Campusing Easy Chair.. V4. Nice topout lol! Day 2: Nick ges psyched for his first ever multipitch.. The Grand Wall! Sweet! Sweeter! Apron Strings Merci Me More Merci Me Chillin before the wet crux.. the only water on the route! Nick takes a hang on the Pillar Nick on the Sword.. the BEST pitch! Upper Sword bolt Ladder... next time I am going around this part to the right! I forgot to mention that we started at around 11:30 or so and finished as the sun set... we forgot the headlamps... after two hours of stumbing down trails and fixed ropes we looked like this. Note to self: when doing the Gran in Febuary and starting super late... bring a lamp. Bivy site... Day 3: Ill do it later... the girlfriend is here alright Teenage Lobotomy, V7 scary tall! Oh shit! About to crater into the slab hurting my feet a little and my stoke a lot! Easy Chair, V4 blindfolded in runners.. I sent, I was psyched, the people working it as a long term project were not so psyched. the Egg, V11... my foot is not on the ground, honest.. doesn't matter though, I didn't send it. Permanent Waves, 5.13c/d.. I was stoked, there was only one move I didn't stick. Maybe a short term project?

after my frightening encounter with Torre de Plumas I was asked if I would ever attempt such a line again. My answer was simply 'NO'. I must say that my attempt on this route was like 'having sex with death' made even more terrible by how close I was to all the crowds below, who could do nothing to help me in my predicament above. I may retire from hard climbing just due to the mental scars I recieved on my attempt.

I tried to solo the traverse back in September and was too chicken to do one of the jumps .... I did jump the 'walk through' gap though and that was pretty nuts, I also couldnt jump to Satans Pillar, impossibly far and dangerous!

They had piolet's back then... WHY DIDN'T THEY SEND THAT SHIT?????

Nice one doods!

the only old one in there is Beckey... plus Gullich and Skinner were freak accidents.

I don't know. The rap isn't working for me.. I think this polka stuff is way cooler! Best christian song ever! [video:youtube]v=7-NOZU2iPA8 Just found this.. died laughing! [video:youtube]v=Dkkg2tPDYHw&feature=related

You just agreed with everything I have said than! Some people simply push the line a lot further for that maximum satisfaction than most.

you wish there were no old, bold climbers. I know old climbers that lead stuff that scares the shit out of me! Mostly in the really, really runout, tenous friction slab category.

Im not high on myself... and I dont think im some sort of fucking clibming God. I just think that is is ridiculous of you to be bashing hard core climbers leading sketchy stuff that is way above most climbers abilities, dont impose your own fears and limitations on others! If someone tries to do some sick runout route and fucks up and gets really hurt.. well that was their thing, and if they succeed, well thats awesome! Just because you think something is dangerous doesnt mean no one should be allowed to do it...

theres a climb near my place called 'Heroin' in all the photos the captions read 'Mike on Heroin' .. Nate trying Heroin for the first time' and so on..

"Just not anytime soon." No shit it means something. But The strong guy on the R/X route (within his abilities) knows the danger and probably wont fall off and die. The newbs don't know what they are doing, how to place gear and how to climb and could easily fall and pull all the gear... but you just go and shit on everybody doing hard badas climbs? I think you just don't understand this stuff that is way out of your league...

Im just saying that a 5.14 climber leading a 5.12+ R/X is almost safer than a newbie with no instruction and a shiny new rack trying to lead a 5.8.. placing gear all wrong and skeching up the route. I've seen a lot of it myself but nobody says anything about it, so why say strong climbers leading runout routes withing their abilities is stupid? I think you're stupid.

Hey man, want to do a weeklong trip in the mountains soon? We can share my little one man tent.. or just cram both of us into one bivy sack for warmth :kisss: oh.. and NO HOMO intended P.S I only wear the for her, but I could make an exception?

Yeah but what I if I want to send a hard R/X rated route just because I want to send that route.... I don't think its dumb, I think it would be awesome to accomplish something like that. I don't hear you bitching about Dave Mcloed for sending hard 5.14 bold lines... I bet you look up to badass pro climbers who send 5.13 R lines. So why is it bad when someone who isn't a 'pro' climber does it... anyways, some people leading a 5.13 R after TR rehearsal is liely safer than the nebs with the shiny new gear trying to lead some 5.8 with no idea wtf they are doing...

So if I want to lead some 5.13 death route... and it just so happens that I get psyched by watching a pro climber lead their 5.13 death routes. I am being stupid and unsafe by following trends? WTF? What if I want to so something kinda dangerous for the same reasons that you want to climb the average 5.10 crack? This thread is idiotic...

1.5 hours to aid. 10 minutes to jug. 30 minutes to free with a million falls... the falls of wich tamara speaks lol.

No, just the opposite. We all got weaker and now everyone needs to grip tape the upper handle to lead the same stuff they did before

Urine Too Deep - Shannon Falls Shut up you Fucking Robot - Hatzic Prairie The Negro Lesbian - The Chief Boogie Till You Puke - Cirque of the uncrackables

pedophile

yeah, what's the point in climbing unless you look good but then you're always tired cuz you got up at 5 AM to have a shower and do your makeup for a 7 o clock start....

Nice looking trip! Zombie Roof is a neat feature...

Trip: Getting Worked on Squamish Rock! - Date: 2/7/2010 Trip Report: So the weather was looking pretty magnificent for climbing in Squamish on the weekend. So Tamara, Brandon and I teamed up with keen photographer Scott Pick again to climb in Squamish. Tamara and I got a ride out to Scott's friday night and crashed on the floor then we headed to the Squamish. Tamara grabbed some cofee in Sarbucks where I met Stanhope and Trotter and chatted route beta for a while before heading to the bluffs. Tamara all psyched to get the first lead of the trip led a little 5.9 crack by the Neat and Cool crag then I warmed up by leading Kangaroo Corner, which Tamara styled on TR. Brandon and his friend Karie (climbing for her second time ever!) met us at Neat and Cool and while they did Layback Flake I led 'Flying Circus' for the fist time. Its pretty fun! Tamara cruised up after me, then keen to lead again she cruised up 'Cornflakes' a blocky 5.7 right nearby. She was supposed to just plractice plcaing gear.. but put like 3 peices in the whole 25 meter route Now it was time for business, I set up a TR on a 5.13b R route called 'Bruce Lee V.s the Kiss Army' which climbs the wall just left of 'Neat and cool' up to a scoop, then makes hard bouldery moves to an arete and hard mantle to easy ground. Andrew Boyd put this line up taking the lob from the arete 3 times, just skimming the ground below, before sending. But I was TR so I needed not worry about such things as of yet. My first attempt got me up into the thumb gastons in the overhanging scoop then I fell trying to match on the arete. I kept trying and trying the cruxiest section over and over again till I had the moves. the did it all from the ground again, taking only a couple falls this time. Its going to take some real work on getting it dialed in before I try and lead it, I'm not into decking into pointy rocks from 50ft. Afterwards I tried to lead an easier little 12b seam called 'Diddly Squat' at Pixie Corner. I almost sent on my first lead attempts, then teetered backwards at an easy balance move. On my second go I fell before getting my second peice in and came really close to decking. I was so tired from doing the crux of the 13b 25 times i figured I might as well finish the day off by just 3rd classing Pixie Corner and not frustrating myself on the 12b. After dinner at Little Ceaser's Pizza and an uncomfortable sleep in the tiny tent I awoke to cloudy skies and drizzle. the plan had been to go climb The Underfling on the Grand Wall with Brandon but we decided to hike to Cobra Crack instead hoping that the overhang would keep it dry. unfortunately we arrived at the route to find it seeping badly but we decided to play on it anyways as we had hiked all the way up there. I aided the route (C2) to set directionals tehn we gave it a go on toprope. Brandon couldn't quite get the initial thin moves into the corner. but I managed to stem the wet corner (with a couple falls of course) and jam my way up to the jug before the crux section. With wet feet and slippery fingers I only managed to make 3 more moves in the overhanging finger crack before completely greasing out. But I checked out all the locks and they are quite good. I can't get my fingerin the mono undercling but I can pull the lip on a different thumbs down two finger lock to reach the better jams above the lip. It is simply the best finger crack I have been on in my life! I can't wait to try it more when it stops seeping, I know I can use all the locks and do the moves, but linking ot will be a different story, can't wait to see how it plays out though! We quickly ate at White Spot then drove home. I got my new ice tools too! Too abd all the ice here is long gone! Pics! Tamara walks some 5.9 short finger crack.. Flying Circus the Scene Tamara cruises up Cornflakes.... Bruce Lee Vs. the Kiss Army diddly Squat + falling off... Pixie Corner cool down.. it was like 15 degrees! Celcius that is I'll try and get the couple Cobra Shots up later...

Yeah Im not really Marc Leclerc.... my real name is FUCK YOU!