marc_leclerc

Or just buy a car so you can go to an established rock climbing venue instead of the nearest piece of rock you can bike ride too I'm working on that, its so fucking complicated today though. You have to pass all these tests that cost money, then buy a car, get insurance... ect... its not like I can just have my liscence and car tomorrow! But even when I get my car, Im still going to be putting up new routes in the Fraser Valley, I like doing FA's just as much as repeating Squamish classics!

Yeah, i just coulnt quite find the words I was looking for in my OP. Commitment and engagement are more what I was getting at, not being judgemental.

I admitteldy on wear mine ice climbing, most of the time in the alpine, and occasionally on serious+hard gear routes. I have been smoked in the head by ice....

Maybe those are the words I was searching for... engagement. Like in alpine grades, it is all about engagement. Two routes can be 5.10 A2+, but one can be 'D+' and one can be 'ED2'. Obviously the second is more 'engaging' and for anyone climbing at that standard will be more memorable. I for one like memorable routes, even if I was scared as shit leading them, you really remember then later, and that is how I think this one should be... engaging. Other routes in the area were done ground up, with minimal bolts for the most part. I once made the mistake of asking someone to bolt a line I had just cleaned, and said to put them at tgood stances, and not so far apart that it would get an R rating. My friend, with good intentions, bolted the line and I came back to find 8 bolts in 15 meters, totally overbolted with closely contrived clips that are in terrible locations and such, and I was later emberassed to call the route mine, without clarifying that I did not equipp it with the botls. I never wanted that to happen again, adn that is when I became WAY stricter about bolts I place and I dont tell people to bolt my lines without making sure they do it the way I want... The only natural pro on this route would be taped on BAT hooks in acouple pockets, that might hold, abut there will need to be a couple bolts or it will mostly be a free solo, and it is hard and insecure looking. The only thing I have closely checked out that I can compare it too is maybe War of the Raptors at the base of the grand wall...

Many other routes in the area were done ground up, and bolted on lead if neccesary. Its really a mix depending on who put it up. I want to do it on lead, and if I think that after I lead it, it needs another bolts somewhere or nobody will try it, or someone could die, I might put it in. But for me personally, I want to put up the route in a way I can be really proud of, not for bragging rights or anything, just so I can feel like I did something in the best style I could.

So I found a real gem of a slab climb at my local crag. It's only 15 or 20 meters tall, but its a hell of a line, with tiny nubbins, shallow mono pockets, deperate smears and micro edges on a steep (75 degree-ish) slab. I want to bolt this route on lead to make it the purest route it can possibly be, as I don't like rap bolting sport climbs very much. I know I am going to have to drill mostly from hooks as there are almost no good stances most of the way. But what is considered good or bad lead bolting ethics? I know this will be unbelievably hard to climb with an electric drill on me (guessed grade is mid 5.12) Is it totally cheating to use a hual line to pull the kit up to me when I am ready to drill and lower the kit down as I start climbing again? Just what is considered the norm for lead bolting ethics and what is considered a bad ethic? I've never bolted on lead before...

I think more people should just do Lions Chair, that lower section of that route is so striking and the climbing is just fucking awesome!

Thanks for putting up the TR. I knew you guys would have fun!

why try and get a ball accross a line to 'score poionts'... its just something that is fun to do, and who doesn't want to have fun. Me personally, I like puttin myself up against a physical or mental chanllenge, whether it be a purely physical sport route, or a long exposed free solo to test my mental endurance, I like overcoming the challenge, proving myself to be strong enough, or to back off, showing that I still need train myself up to the level of the challenge if I want to win.

It can be fat but aereated... or overly mushy... hence shitty screws.

Personally, I sure wouldnt want too.

Is there any walk off, scramble off.. or some way of getting down from the top without rapping. If one say wanted to free-solo the climb? I mean the rap bolters must have gotten up there somehow?

Joshua Tree..... Perhaps El Portrero Chico if you're into that?

Only sport climbers drink Bud, tradsters drink microbraus, OE or import. You're welcome. Tradsters drink PBR, its all we can afford (or afford to pay someone old enough to buy it) after getting to the destination, replacing gear and other shit...

What happens if I pray to be a better climber so that my friends will have a better time because we will summit, then its not selfish its for everyone. Would that work? haha! I don't know.... I guess if it wasn't for you.... but you theoretically, God would know what you 'really' want deep inside. In other words, you oculdnt just say its for your friends and trick him like you try and trick another person...

wanting to be better at something is selfish.. not neccesarily the activity you want to be better at.

And about the prayer. Praying to be better at something for your own endevours is selfish. I don't think God smiles upon and rewards selfish endevours.

Well, I think that if you beleive in God, then you must also believe that he created you and gave you your abilities and talents. Once you beleive this, then you will know that you are honouring God by using the talents and abilities he gave you, and when you honor and please God in that way then perhaps he could give you that extra boost to send?

I made an FB group and invited you all!

for fuck sakes.... if you dont like the fact that there are bolts. dont climb the fucking route. if there bolts are next to cracks, well that different. But really, YOU didnt do the FA, if you wanted to put a bold r/x rated route up the face then you should have gone and sent it before those guys put the bolts in. now its too late and it isnt your route. so shut the fuck up and stop making these stupid fucking threads to sounds all manly like 'im gonna go chop bolts' cause im a wannabe hardman. and if you chop it you had better fucking do it on lead, ground up, hanging from hooks or chopping from stances or you are no better than the guys who put the bolts in.

Cool keenwesh.... lets wait for conditions to be right and try TC. I was looking at the Tempest (full tilt) on CBR as well as the west face. Would love to go there too sometime soon!

You're always welcome here, we'd be honored to climb with you! I don't have a passport yet, it should be here soon though. I will be sure to head up to Canada sometime, but if you are in the Washington area anytime, send us a PM and we can definitely work something out. We are heading out this weekend if you're interested, probably McClellan's Butte. -Mark I need to get paid first! Then we could probably get something going... its easy for me to arrange a squamish trip for a few days. Plus, there is free (illegal?) camping and showers there too. But of course I want to go to Index too. P.S - Triple Couloir on DT looks cool... hint, hint!

A hot girl not nearly as hot as the girl lying down with me watching the movie though....

you would like Squampton....

Hey Dudes, Im feeling a wee bit left out here. Is it because im from Canada? Well anyhows, Im 17, graduated early and work in contruction. Lead 5.12 trad, WI5+, comfy cozy on snow, enjoy a good aid climb, and am psyched to teach people anything too. Have a full rack of cheap ass shit gear.. but hey, it works. http://www.facebook.com/#/marcandre.leclerc1?ref=profile that should work for Fb, or just PM me. Lots of good rock near my house, and always amped to get something going in Squamish too... and that doesnt mean I wont climb in the States either.