marc_leclerc

One of the guys who did the FWA is my girlfriend's uncle. I might be able to get an E-Mail or something if you are interested.

???? I was more or less the biggest guy out of the group and it just made sense to do it that way. My buddy only weighs about 150 ibs and I don't think it would have been faster whatsoever for both of us to carry him, probably more awkward in the long run.

Don't climb it with some guy who is going to unrope and abandon you on the summit because 'its cold'

Went out for a casual day of bouldering today with a couple friends. My friend, who is a good and competent climber, just went to bum slide down a short slab, went faster than expected and lost control, and when he tried to land at the base he planted his foot between a couple sharp rock and severed an artery in his ankle. He was bleeding profusely, and I tied a shirt around his calf to slow the bleeding.While the other guy carried the pads I had to carry my badly bleeding buddy quite a ways back down to the highway. We got him to the hospital fairly quickly where he got stitches and x-rays and stuff. We were lucky that things worked out, that there were two guys to help him out, that he was fairly light and I could carry him all the way to the car, and that he was able to stay calm and keep from passing out or anything. But if an accident like this happened to a friend who was bouldering alone, or under worse circumstances the consequences could have been drastically worse. This just made me think that even on the most casual and un- seemingly dangerous outing: -carry even the smallest first aid kit, just a bandage and gauze pad, along with your average roll of athletic tape can help. -Although not always possible, if there is cell phone reception in the area just make sure your phone has full battery life before you leave. -Although bouldering and climbing alone is great! If a friend can or would like to come, especially in an area with bad landings and rocky pits, bring them along! -Just be careful, think a bit before you jump over that pit, or bum slide down a 10ft slab, wear shoes when scrambling around boulders (my friend just had rock shoes half on) and don't do anything stupid!

Or Guzzler.... now that would be funny... COME GUZZLER!!! COME!!!

How did you know I don't own a strap????? jeebus thats creepy...

Haha... sorry Mark was stuck in Canada with me! I am partly to blame for the epicness of this trip. As without me, Mark would not have been in Canada and Josh would not have had to stay up late figuring out his return! Awesome story!

Not 8000m or even close, but i would rather climb Changabang....

how do you climb diedre alpine style? No fixed ropes ofc....

What if I climbed Diedre naked alpine style so many times, over the course of a dew days. That I gain an equal amount of totaly vertical mileage to climbing Everest! Im too poor for this kind of shit....

They seem pretty stoked that one of their products passed CE certification

while i am very impressed that the kid had the endurance to summit... what i think will be truly amazing is a young (18 yrs or less) un-guided, unsupported alpine style ascent of Everest. Routefinding, carrying your own shit, and showing the true attributes of an alpinist without a guide service doing it for you...

Wow she was on Denali!!!! She must be a really good climber!!! Right?

Don't you love 'sustained' difficulties!

I have heard the crux of Milk Run is pretty sustained fomr some good climbers! The Sword is incredibly easy for 11a, makes sense that Milk Road would feel harder than the Grand Sounds awesome!

Little kid is almost as fat as me! Im like 6'2" and 165 Ibs!

Her lead in general was spectacular! She is such a talented crack climber!

Trip: Cheakamus Canyon to Fraser Valley - Cliping bolts & bouldering Date: 5/17/2010 Trip Report: Okay, there was some trad climbing too, but those were Tamara's leads, this was the first time in a very long time I did not plug any gear on a climbing trip. Last weekend I went to Chek with my friend Brock and we did some sport climbing around the Big Show area. We both tried 'Free Will' an amazing 13c, Brock only fell once and I had to hang a couple times after the crux. 'Free Will' is a total endurance route, linking a bunch of pumpy 5.12 into a few 5.13 fingerlock pulls, then a bunch of pumpy 11d jugs into a final 12d sequence before the chains. The route overhangs 45 degrees the whole way making for a very sick outing! Free Will, 5.13c Later on we went around the corner to the Circus wall to do a few more routes, I flashed both 'Face the Music' 12a, and 'Fleeing Heifer' 12c before heading home. The next day I climbed near my house in the Fraser Valley. I cleaned and put an anchor on a crazy highball problem I had spotted before and figured it out on TR. It goes at V5, and I can walk it on TR, but I backed off twice when going for the highball/solo. I have to go back with more pads to cover the horrible pit of deat at the bottom. The boulder problem! This weekend we headed to Squamish first, and Tamara led Cat Crack, 5.7, and Flying Circus, 10a and Scott took some great pictures! Nice work on Flying Circus Tamara Cat Crack, it looks so steep upside down! Flying Circus, 5.10a. Apparently this is so easy for Tamara that she took a no hands rest and tied her hair back half way up. Oh, and for the record, Tamara would like to clarify that she is not pulling the cam, she is giving it a tug to make sure its good. Like you guys are going to judge her lol! I worked on the new-ish 5.13 bolted route just to the right of Neat and Cool, but it was so painful at the first crux , underclinging a sharp crimp/flake I only tried a couple times. After this we headed straight to Chek again, and Tamara headed up a new 3 pitch 10a with my friend Ben while I worked some harder lines with Brock who just happened to be there again. I tried Free Will a couple times but was immediately too pumped from working the other route in Squamish. Brock worked 'Captain Amreica' a sweet 5.14b, where you climb the crux of Pulse 14a, reverse the crux of Division Bell 13d, then continue up Free Will 13c right thorugh the crux of that route to the chains! He is going to send soon. I quickly realized that I needed to do something bouldery that wouldnt require a lot of endurance so I hopped on 'The Down System' a short 5.14 with some particularily heinous boulder problems leading into big easier pulls with a couple rests. Brock had worked this route a year ago and had almost sent, falling from the 13a redpoint crux move 3 times. One move in the crux boulder problem at the bottom is so strenous that Brock dislocated a couple ribs and had to take a few months off climbing! Brock on the Down System Powerful crux moves! Me on The Down System Crux of The Downs System, 5.14a For the next while I worked the route, solving the crux moves, but not the upper section. It's so much fun to work something hard with your friends, comparing beta and so on. I walked back around the corner just in time to see Tamara do a big 30 meter free hanging rap from her 3 pitch route then we headed back to the tents. I still had a bit of energy so Ben and I went to 'The Boiler Room' a bouldery 12d near our camp. I sent 3rd try after having to figure out new beta in the crux. Ben will send it soon too! Great route! Tamara hides from mosquitos! Sending 'The Boiler Room' 12d. So fun! The next day Tamara was too tired to climb and just tanned in the sun. I warmed up on a couple 5.12s then worked on 'The Down System' more. Figuring out all the moves to the chains. I linked from the ground right through the crux then wussed out and grabbed a draw. I can't wait to come back to this route and try it again now that I know I can do all the moves and link the crux. Ben on Face The Music, 12a Ben on The Mutation, 5.11c We quickly stopped by Squamish on the way home to boulder. I just did easy lines and Tamara gave a good effort on 'Easy Chair' V4. But we were both dead and just drove home after an hour. Tamara on Easy Chair, V4 Such a fun couple weeks! Sport climbing is pretty fun! Gear Notes: gear, draws, rope, stuff.... Approach Notes: drive, walk

Both... do muscle ups, levers and pull ups on the rings.. do hangs on the board to work your weakest holds (ie, pinches, monos, crimps and so on)

Sweet! I was looking forward to seeing this! It's hard to tell in the vid, but from what Matt described to me, it sounded like if the Anti-Cams blew you would get REALLY badly injured and possibly killed in a MASSIVe swing into the pillar, pretty exciting to be using newly self invented gear in a spot like that!

First 12d pitch on Teedy Bear's Picnic looks like one of the best. Not sure about fist of offwidth, I don't climb those sizes that often, but for fingercracks it is the 'Cobra' hands down.

Oh, I thought you said you were 200ft off route! I wouldn't really count being 200ft away from the route as the same route..... glad you had a fun adventure. Although I don't understand what could be better than the headwall crack of outer Space in that grade! That crack was like heaven itself.

if you liked the route becasue you were not on it.. then you actually didn't like the route? I am very confused!

When I free soloed City Park's first pitch my focus was so extreme that I momentarily had mind powers that launched the block into space. For this I am truly sorry.

More like: Human body parts found near small, meth-producing, town in Western Washington. It hasn't been confirmed, but the body parts are believed to be that of a hiker who was using technical climbing equipment to scale a very dangerous section of the rock cliff. Local SAR teams have concluded that the hiker slipped when a large hold broke from the rock cliff and the hiker's safety cord broke. It appears that the man was hiking alone when the slip occured, and SAR was not informed of the slip until it was too late.