marc_leclerc

Definitely the Rectum-Frier... for me at least it depends on what you play...

Lol! any body parts found in the debris at the base?

RE-BAR!!!!

poor guy did the rappel where you tie a single line to a 6mm cord with a big ass knot, the knot jams against the rap ring and you rap off the single line. At the bottom you pull on the sinny line to pull the rope. You can put a clove hitch on a locking biner to jam against the ring just above where the cord is tied on to make things MUCH safer... he didn't take this precaution and his knot slipped through the ring and he fell to his death.

that most certainly does SUCK.... my condolences. make sure you know how to make sure your rappels are all safe and properly backed up and bombproof as possible. Make sure all your friends also know how to properly set up and back up all rappel methods too...

WORD!

Thanks for reminding of how much I want to go to Yos.. but can't because I have 6$ to my name

Techno's are good.... but honestly! for hard trad I have really liked La Sportiva Muira lace ups, and Acopa Merlins, get the Merlin tight, it will stretch. You need a shoe that can edge and jam thin cracks well,you must have a not 'too' boxy of toe. You need some support for jamming in cracks but good technique goes a long way. For example I jammed the Split Pillar (just an example of a long crack) in brand new tight Muira's with no discomfort. The toe of the shoe doesn't do much in wider cracks, decently thick leather shoes are nice for wider cracks. Thin granite cracks that are sub 5.13 tend to be less than vertical, or just vertical. You must remember on these climbs that you are not just jamming a crack, but climbing a slab, so for these climbs your shoe must be decent for edging & smearing. A nice pointed big toe goes a very long way on these routes too. So in other words for trad, you will be climbing hand sized and wider cracks so a leather shoe is nice and comfy, you will be climbing less than vertical and thin cracks, so a strong big toe and good edging go a long way, if you live in an area with steep gear routes like the gunks you also want a good edging shoe to hold you in on those overhangs. So bacially IMO, the Muira lace ups, Acopa Merlins and Techno's are great.. in exactly that order

I sure did... problem was, my coach never liked me all that much. And when I kept placing first in all the comps he made me sign up in the 'Men's Open' category even though I was 11 years old. It was just way too much stress for me and I really wanted to have fun... so in the end I wen't to Canadian nationals, placed 1st, got told by Team Canada that I would be accepted to the team if I filled out their little application... then I said 'no thanks' and quit competitieve climbing. Best choice I ever made, because I would not be doing the trad and alpine and ice and stuff that I really love and enjoy now! then again, some of my oldfriends are sending 5.14 sport climbs now..

Thanks! Btw, I met another little Vertical World mutant crusher kid while I was there.. just flashing the V3 and harder problems everyone else was falling off of. Pretty sick! Bouldering is def harder for the kids though, with the bigger more powerful moves!

PM sent!

hahahaha! I would be amped if I could 'free' it at all...

just do some easier glacier routes, like Coleman-Deming on Baker or something. Then if you feel comfortable and ready climb Rainier. If you do one of the easier routes its just like a long hike with a few more hazards, that you should be prepared to deal with. If you are smart and check the weather, go prepared but not too heavy, and know how to haul you or your partners ass out of a crevasse... you are good to go.

checked it out on the drive home.. looks sweet... and hard!

[video:youtube]v=3dWSDCjlaoc&feature=fvst Apparently this is epic!

EPICS

EPIC = My Dick

Pics are up now

Trip: Leavenworth - Icicle Creek Area - Outer Space and more... Date: 5/3/2010 Trip Report: So Tamara, Scott and I drove down to Leavenworth Fri night and crashed at 8-Mile campground. I tried to sleep for a few hours without much success then got up at 6:00 and ran a couple laps at the Classic Crack area... but I was still a bit nervous. My plan was to on-sight free solo 'Outer Space' on the Snow Creek Wall. I first heard about this classic route a couple years ago and somehow managed to plant the seed in my head that I was going to solo it one day, even though I was nowhere near mentally capable of doing so back then. I had been getting psyched for a while and finally felt ready go up there and solo the route. I knew Dane had soloed it a long time ago so I asked him for some beta, and he kindly offered to walk in to the route with me and take some pics. He picked me up at 7:00 and after picking up a parking pass in town we walked up the trail towards the route. Just before the climbers trail goes down to the creek Dane stopped so he could shoot pics and I continued. I missed the turn of in all my excitement and ended up bushwhacking back up and right to the base of the route wich cost me lots of time. I was boiling hot after jogging up to the wall so I took off a couple layers, put on my rock shoes and started up. Immediately passing two parties starting the first pitch. A few minutes later I was starting up the left hand crack off two tree ledge, the climbing was steeper and fun, and very soon I was taking a no hands rest and peering accross the infamous traverse. I found the awesome feet below the crack and crossed into a decent but flaring left hand jam in the pocket. It took a couple minutes to committ to the move, but soon I was underclinging on massive jug flakes and jamming perfect locks up to the final face moves of P3. From there the rest of the route went off without a hitch, great face climbing on crazy knobs, cruiser jamming. The moves off Library Ledge were exhillarating, when the crack thins and steepens, the feet petter out and you have to pull a wee bit while 700ft off the deck! I couldn't stop smiling. When I hit the flake right at the top of the wall instead of traversing below it I pulled the overlap on huge jugs with a fun dynamic move getting over the lip.. not at all hard, just freaking awesome. But you have to remeber to look down before you pull it, and giggle at the exposure At the crux move... [video:youtube]v=NyWtODXHCzY Doing the traverse... Done with the traverse... stoked for the rest of the route. pics and vid by Dane! 30 minutes later I was back at the base of the route, and I found the proper trail out and finished the walk out with Dane. After a bit of confusion I found Tamara and Scott as well as friends Mark, Josh, and Stewart. We went to Classic Crack and I put up a TR for everyone. Tamara and Mark found it hard with their tiny person hands, Josh found it hard becasue it was his second time trying to rock climb, and Stewart freaking walked it with his eyes closed. I tried 'Doing the Dishes', a 5.12 TR problem right of classic crack, and fell off the micro edge crimping moves. So I cleaned the TR anchor and rapped down. When I rapped down I found a better edge and promptly decided to try again and sent! Felt like a nasty sandbag for sure. Next time i have to get a sprinting belayer and lead the thing! Tamara on Classic Crack.. Malcom makes quick work of Deception Crack, with its tricky pro and slick flaring jams. The other guys went to climb R&D and had some sort of mini epic where Stewart got sick, Mark got a cam stuck, and Josh was just stoked to have done a real multi pitch climb. They ended up leaving becasue Stewart was throwing up and stuff unfortunately... The rest of Sat and Sun was spent bouldering and soloing around. Some highlights included Tamara on-sighting the Hueco Problem, which she basically campused with her eyes closed... sending Ressurection, V8 in a couple tries, and Tamara sending The Classic, a V2 highball with a crux top out, second try too. Her send was very epic... being over a foot taller than her I can just reach up to big holds at the lip but Tamara had to grab some little crimp and throw for some intermidiate sloper thing then finally get the jugs at the end... all the while at least 15ft above the pads. Nice Send! Then I got owned by a V3 at Barney's Rubble that took me like 45 minutes to send.. and Tamara almost sent the thing before geting shut down by the stupidly weird top out. Walking in to Mad Meadows The Peephole - V10, a truly outstanding problem! Tamara casually floats accross 'The hueco Problem' Working 'The Cloaca', the powerful V11 topout to The Hueco Problem.. didn't quite get the last move, something to work on next time! Tamara sends 'The Classic' a tall V2 with the crux right at the top! The Sword, this problem never dissapoints! [video:vimeo]11437630 Tamara on Alcove Left.. she almost got it! This is the V3 that took me more tries than Ressurection - V8 and Pimpsqueak - V9 combined! Some 5.9 crack at Barney's Rubble... We checked out Pishatin Pinnacles hich was sick... we even climbed The Tunnel, a crazy 5.6 that goes through a hole in Orchard tower.. so weird and awesome. We didn't climb anything remotely tricky though, the sandstone was crumply in places and we didn't want to die from pebbles breaking and stuff Peshatin Pinnacles! The drive home was uneventful, other than getting searched for drugs at the border... Scott got all mad at the gaurds and Tamara treid to keep everything chill.. while I just stood there and asked dumbass questions to the already pissed off guard about what happens when they swipe your passport and stuff such a rad trip and I'm stoked to come back soon! The 'Tamara' pose.. !

That was an interesting move, well the one I eventually did The feet are really good, and as soon as you bring your left foot up you get perfect jams and a jug undercling. You jsut have to feel good and ready to do it

I had such a great time in Leavenworth this weekend, great weather, great routes and great people!! Outer Space was such a high quality route, I can't wait to take Tamara up it soon! I'll throw together a TR tomorrow somtime... got home late after pretty much getting raped by the border gaurds getting back into my own country

awwwwwww... WHY THE FUCK DID I CLICK ON THAT??????? THATS FUCKED UP........ awwww... SHIT.. IM FUCKING SCARRED FOR LIFE At least i clued in after the first 10 seconds and shut it off....

I was hoping not to carry anything up the climb other than my chalkbag... but thanks for the beta guys

Is the walk off from outer space do-able in rock shoes? or bare foot?

I rap bolted a few cracks there yesterday.