marc_leclerc

whoops double post.

Oh, fucking gnarly. I onsight bouldered that thing in like 5 minutes camp to camp before sending some boulders....

I think that soloing the NE Buttress of Slesse should be the gold standard free solo for any aspiring cascade soloist.... that is real stuff right there.

Just watched it illegally with subtitles. Fucking awesome! Very minor hollywoodization for a climbing film. Only additions were a girl and one cut rope....

from what Ive heard though.... despite being pretty tall, isnt that face of garfield sort of 'alpine crag' like... with a short approach and stuff. Sort of like Yak Peak or Exfoliation Dome.... nobody complains about the bolts on the later two.....

excluding some of the volcanoes most North Cascade glaciers are fine unroped if you are good..... some pocket glaciers can be real bitches though

I as being sarcastic but honestly ... 4th class and 5.4 so close to each other.... im sure more than half the peopel going up the Tooth 'solo' it

it has to be 5th class to count as a free solo

Pickets are pointless IMO... if the snow can actually hold them solid enough to take a fall then you shouldn't fall off because you have you axe and solid steps. And if it is scary and crappy snow and you feel like you could fall off.... then pickets won't work anyways, just get a deadman or two, those are better.

I climbed a grade V with a 70 year old friend..... and we passed several parties.

Sure didn't work for me last year. Trying to tell my Mom that I wasn't dead, just a little late....

nice vid... did you fart at 1:21?

they are there but I didnt grab them... I wasnt THAT desperate yet... they are way in there!

My secret to sending is to eat McDonalds before going to try anything hard. Oh, and taking a dump and piss to make myself lighter, and to hold my farts because the gas makes my lighter. Okay, I honestly find eating a shit load of pasta the night before gives you more energy, and to drink a lot before a hard day...

Yep, thats the crux. Shove your arm all the way in to your shoulder and tense everything! If you tense hard your muscles push on the crack and you can move up and grab a slopery face hold on the left.... then I cheated and laybacked a crimp in the crack to get my foot on the face hold where my hand was.... then emit a weird but loud grunt-like sound and you should be able to thrutch up and stand on the face hold.... then my knee fit so I couldnt fall anymore

Thanks! Yeah, its at the Smoke Bluffs... everything on the chief was all wet, or most likely wet. The routes we did were the sunniest (good, aesthetic, challenging) ones we could find...

Trip: Squamish - Split Beaver Date: 1/17/2010 Trip Report: So Scott wanted to try his new photography stuff so Tamara and I went to Squamish with him so we could climb and he could shoot. Penny Lane area was mostly dry so to warm up I lead 'Power Windows' which was a great route. The 5.11 traverse was also the first friction slab I have done in Squamish (cruel shoes is face climbing on edges and does not count) and I was amazed at what my feet would stick to compared to the finer crystals out in the valley. Tamara followed then we set a TR on 'Kahoukers' (thin seam left of Crime of the Century) and I ran a couple laps on it and felt super solid, then right when I decided to lead it I tore a nasty flapper in the crux tips lock and decided to screw it and go to Split Beaver, wich I had heard was a wicked lead. So I have heard people swear that The Split Pillar and Apron Strings are the burliest or most full on 10b's in Squamish, these people must not have climbed Split Beaver! Slightly but continously overhanging hand jams widen to off-hands, fist, then rattly fist and finally fora skinnyguy like me, arm barring and knee jamming. I groveled and sweated and slid my #4 with me through the crux then had to leave it behind as it widened into the final knee jamming/arm barring section.... I had no #5 but I dont really need to buy one because that is the perfect size for my knee, and if my knee fitst then I can't fall off. So verall it was a burly hard lead, I struggled, but it was worth it! Power Windows Crux traverse as the crack dissapears. Tamara styling the lower finger crack... Tamara on the upper slab Good Times! TR laps on Kahoukers before tearing some skin off... the Beaver! End of the fist jams! Begin Off-Widthing/groveling! Almost there.. commence knee jamming! The End!

Yeah, I just looked at the two week forecast.... Im thinking next weekend is going to be a good time to climb ROCK if its nice.....

Signed Tiger Woods!?!?!?

[video:youtube]v=vtKqESDqFqo

Seracs are Alpine Ice...... for fuck sakes, one would think that would be obvious.... wtf?

totally sick.. but perhaps instead of upping the grade adding an X grade would be better... i guess it climbs technically like mixed but with no rock, weird and hard to grade...

Now where is Josh Lewis???

http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?l=2&keyid=37179#

I wonder how hard this thing is? it looks like the holds are all pretty good and not too far apart but its fairly steep, at least past vertical... M6 or maybe 7?