Le Piston

I don't know if this is a better suggestion, just another possibility. I like the Black Diamond Speed 28 (they also make a bit larger version). It is light, durable, simple, and comfortable. I've had mine for 5 years and use it a lot for day climbs and used it in the Alps for hut-to-hut climbing. There are lots of good options out there (almost too many)...good luck in your quest!

Trip: Dorado Needle - Northwest Ridge Date: 6/30/2009 Trip Report: My friend Rod and I hoped to climb Dorado Needle last summer along with Eldorado and Klawatti in one day. Due to trouble getting off Klawatti, it wasn't to be. So, this summer we wanted a rematch. After to lovely trudge up to the Eldorado Glacier, we set up camp in the rocks below the East ridge.We considered tagging Eldorado again, but wanted to save our strength for Dorado Needle and possibly Austera. The night brought chilly brisk wind and a few showers and we awoke 0330 to socked in conditions. So, we slept until the weather cleared and got a "crack of 9" alpine start. We were glad to be roped up as my partner found a crevasse on the way to the col near Tepeh Towers. We dropped down onto the McAllister glacier and wound our way up to the northwest ridge. The snow bridge on one of the larger crevasses was sagging but sturdy. The snow slope below the ridge led all the way up to the rock, with a snow bridge over the schrund climbers rightThere are two pitches of fun mid 5th class rock on mostly clean rock to the summit...which unfortunately was socked in at the time.We downclimbed and rapped the ridge back to the snow. We thought about doing Austera, but decided with the late start and the prospect of sleeping in our own beds to head out. This was a fun climb and we had the peak to ourselves away from the masses on Eldorado. Gear Notes: Standard glacier climbing gear and small rock rack to 2.5 inches. Approach Notes: The boulder fields are mostly free of snow. There is a lot less snow than last year, so more open cracks. Rodents at camp able to foil my rock bunkers and get to my garbage and food bags.

I'm with genepires...don't do it! You'll likely regret it. These axes are hard to find and are very cool.

I have 3 kids, work full time and pull call for emergencies...so I feel your pain. Finding time and balancing responsibilities is a challenge. That suck wind feeling is enough to motivate me alone. I go up Mt. Si with incrementally heavy packs after work when trying to get in shape for Spring/Summer/Fall climbing in addition to the gym workouts. An MP3 player helps a lot. I'm also close to a climbing rock which I can boulder on to get some contact strength in my hands and work on balance. You just have to be creative. There are hikes and climbing rocks (UW, Marymoor, etc) close by. Good luck!

As too often happens, it isn't ME in the picture, but this one on Forbidden is my favorite.

Totally agree...Black Diamond makes great gear and backs it up well. I've only had one BD product that failed me, their gaiters that broke a strap on my third climb of the season 2 years ago.

Thank you for the correction...but I guess talking about Carbonic Anhydrase inhibition wouldn't interest most people, but you are correct. I echo your point about acclimatizing...it is safer and better to take your time and do it right (besides usually more enjoyable)

One cautionary note. It is an osmotic diuretic, so it is important to stay up on the hydration (you piss like the proverbial racehorse) and can cause blurry vision (as I experienced once or twice) It isn't a total replacement for acclimatization...but can help. There are other herbal supplements that have shown to be helpful (Ginko, etc)

It seems some of our fellow climbers are missing the original idea. Helmets do not prevent all injuries or fatalities, but they protect your brain from a lot of potential trauma. I worked ER for over 20 years and saw a lot more people saved by safety devices than killed by them...a lot more! I heard the "I know someone who would have died wearing a seatbelt" story many times...but saw more injuries of people being ejected from a vehicle or being a projectile in a vehicle than people winding up without a scratch not wearing one. A helmet won't protect your neck but to say it caused the broken neck in the bicycle rider is rather illogical. We all have to make choices about risk taking, but we aren't the only ones who pay for the consequences. I dislike sounding preachy, but get real guys...what we do has inherent risk both objective and subjective. Why ridicule people who want to keep it as safe as possible? We can't control all thes risks, but that's why good judgement and good equipment are important. I'm done beating the horse. I'll await the inevitable spray response. Cheers!

Another spot you might consider is the Royal Columns/Tieton. I remember learning crack climbing and setting pro there. The rock is pretty sound and the routes are close to the road. The routes are one pitch, take pro well, and go from 5.2 on up.

Glad to hear your luck changed with Eldorado. Too bad you didn't get the views (I was lucky last year with stellar weather). Way to steal a summit and earn hardman points!

I helped evacuate a guy 2 years ago who took a basketball sized rock from 30 feet up right to the helmet. While he was briefly knocked out and had symptoms consistent with spinal cord trauma, he had no permanent damage. If he had no helmet, I have no doubt he would be dead. I've taken enough rock hits to convince me of the value of a helmet whenever a fall or falling rock/ice is a possibility. I see little or no down side to wearing a helmet and lots of reasons to protect your noggin. There is a big difference between taking acceptable risk for an activity you love and playing Russian Roulette.

I once lost a pole for one of my tents and REI made me a new one for a very modest fee. That was quite a few years ago, so I don't know if they still offer that service any more. (never hurts to ask)

I haven't personally climbed or approached Farnham, but I understand that East side routes are approached via McDonald Creek road (which is supposed to be pretty washed out but doable with bicycles) For West side approaches Farnham Creek is supposed to be the approach. I have found it difficult to get information on current road conditions up there. I ran into washouts on the Bush River road and Icefall Brook roads last summer that changed my climbing plans. You might have some luck with the Canadian Alpine Club or some of the guide services. I wish I had more info, but Farnham hasn't been on my wish list...though it looks pretty cool, especially the Tower. Good luck!

I'm 6 foot tall and just barely fit. It is definitely cozy with my 5'9" climbing partner. Bottom line...not a tent to sit out a storm in, but great lightweight shelter in mild weather. I still love my Firstlight.

Nice pictures. Marcin, no use of the new tools? I hope they work out well for you. Cheers!

Just wondering if you had seam sealed your Firstlight? I seam sealed the heck out of mine and have used it in rainy weather (not a North Cascades Deluge, but steady Olympics and Cascade rain) without a leak so far. I love my Firstlight. I don't consider it 4 season. I have an older Sierra Designs single wall bomb shelter for bad weather and wind.

I thought I was the only one stupid enough to solo up the mossy rock past the bergschrund. When I was standing on the lip of the schrund climbing to the left toward the rock, the snow was collapsing under my feet. I had a spreadeagle crossing of the snow bridge to the right...good memories! You are an animal man!

Thanks for the great TR. I did Klawatti and Eldorado last year and had similar soft/unstable snow conditions. Post hole a go-go! I'm hoping to do Dorado Needle and Austera in June. Was there much of a schrund on Klawatti? I remember the snow collapsing on me trying to get around it on the way up and not wanting to downclimb it (we found a "creative" way to get off) Nice pictures man!

Another vote from a Bullfrog convert...usually in repeated applications. I am also a believer in a brimmed hat and a bandana to cover the neck (if a helmet isn't needed). Don't forget the lips, hands, and inside of the nostrils, ears, and other spots. I use Dermatone lip balm for those sensitive spots. I have also used a white balaclava (doesn't absorb as much heat as black) from Helly Hanson that works well. Zinc oxide (as pointed out by Alpinfox) may look dorky, but so does lobster face and peeling...to say nothing of being more painful.

I give mine to a farmer/rancher type who has all kinds of uses for rope...he is very happy to take it. It gets many more years of use and clears space in my gear closet. I'm sure there are other people who could use rope that doesn't need to be up to climbing specs.

You are a lucky dog! I totally agree with the others...learn at least enough of the lingo to be polite, though many people there speak English (I try never to assume they do or). Will you get a rail pass or will you be staying in one area most of the time? Some climbs require train/cable car approaches...and a pass can save you a lot of money. If you plan on mountaineering objectives you have Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa, Piz Bernina, Gran Paradiso, the Matterhorn, etc. The Dolomites offer a wide variety of rock climbs. One option, if you can afford it, is to climb with a guide. I used one for a trip a few years ago and his knowledge of the routes and language was well worth the money. There are lower cost places to stay for climbers where they speak English and often you can find partners. Good luck and have a wonderful trip!

I tried the elephants foot scheme and never found it as warm as a full sized sleeping bag. Feathered Friends used to have the Rock Wren, which had a drawstring opening at the foot and arm zippers which made walking and cooking while in your sleeping bag possible...perfect for ledge bivy action. I have a Montbell Alpine down hugger sleeping bag which is 1 lb. 2 oz. and keeps me reasonbly warm on ultralight forays. If it's really cold, I just add the belay jacket. I actually use aluminum crampons (Trango Alpine Light). I have used them for climbs like Rainier, Whitehorse, Sahale, etc. They have worked well and didn't dull much or bend at all. But if I expect any amount of rock or ice...out comes the steel. I'd rather be safe than save the weight. Hope that helps, Cheers!

A lot of good advice has already been shared on this thread. My question is how confident are you setting pro and anchors on lead? How comfortable are you downclimbing on exposed routes and doing multiple rappels? If your rope management and pro setting are dialed in you are best served starting on routes a grade or two below what you comfortably lead at the crags and go from there. If you can go with someone experienced all the better to start. I remember doing all the routes you mention and just falling in love with alpine rock climbing. My favorite places to take "gym and crag" climbers are SEWS and Ingalls to start. You can't beat the views, the rock is good and easy to protect, and not too far in. Enjoy the transition!

Forgive the repeat picture from the thread TarheelEMT mentions, but I have used the combination you mention. I do mostly alpine climbing and not much serious vertical ice. The Venoms work really well and feel very secure for steep snow, alpine ice, and the occassional vertical steps. If you plan on doing technical ice, I'd suggest getting "real" ice tools. But, for the majority of alpine climbs in the Cascades the Venoms or something similar work great!