Le Piston

It seems some of our fellow climbers are missing the original idea. Helmets do not prevent all injuries or fatalities, but they protect your brain from a lot of potential trauma. I worked ER for over 20 years and saw a lot more people saved by safety devices than killed by them...a lot more! I heard the "I know someone who would have died wearing a seatbelt" story many times...but saw more injuries of people being ejected from a vehicle or being a projectile in a vehicle than people winding up without a scratch not wearing one. A helmet won't protect your neck but to say it caused the broken neck in the bicycle rider is rather illogical. We all have to make choices about risk taking, but we aren't the only ones who pay for the consequences. I dislike sounding preachy, but get real guys...what we do has inherent risk both objective and subjective. Why ridicule people who want to keep it as safe as possible? We can't control all thes risks, but that's why good judgement and good equipment are important. I'm done beating the horse. I'll await the inevitable spray response. Cheers!

Another spot you might consider is the Royal Columns/Tieton. I remember learning crack climbing and setting pro there. The rock is pretty sound and the routes are close to the road. The routes are one pitch, take pro well, and go from 5.2 on up.

Glad to hear your luck changed with Eldorado. Too bad you didn't get the views (I was lucky last year with stellar weather). Way to steal a summit and earn hardman points!

I helped evacuate a guy 2 years ago who took a basketball sized rock from 30 feet up right to the helmet. While he was briefly knocked out and had symptoms consistent with spinal cord trauma, he had no permanent damage. If he had no helmet, I have no doubt he would be dead. I've taken enough rock hits to convince me of the value of a helmet whenever a fall or falling rock/ice is a possibility. I see little or no down side to wearing a helmet and lots of reasons to protect your noggin. There is a big difference between taking acceptable risk for an activity you love and playing Russian Roulette.

I once lost a pole for one of my tents and REI made me a new one for a very modest fee. That was quite a few years ago, so I don't know if they still offer that service any more. (never hurts to ask)

I haven't personally climbed or approached Farnham, but I understand that East side routes are approached via McDonald Creek road (which is supposed to be pretty washed out but doable with bicycles) For West side approaches Farnham Creek is supposed to be the approach. I have found it difficult to get information on current road conditions up there. I ran into washouts on the Bush River road and Icefall Brook roads last summer that changed my climbing plans. You might have some luck with the Canadian Alpine Club or some of the guide services. I wish I had more info, but Farnham hasn't been on my wish list...though it looks pretty cool, especially the Tower. Good luck!

I'm 6 foot tall and just barely fit. It is definitely cozy with my 5'9" climbing partner. Bottom line...not a tent to sit out a storm in, but great lightweight shelter in mild weather. I still love my Firstlight.

Nice pictures. Marcin, no use of the new tools? I hope they work out well for you. Cheers!

Just wondering if you had seam sealed your Firstlight? I seam sealed the heck out of mine and have used it in rainy weather (not a North Cascades Deluge, but steady Olympics and Cascade rain) without a leak so far. I love my Firstlight. I don't consider it 4 season. I have an older Sierra Designs single wall bomb shelter for bad weather and wind.

I thought I was the only one stupid enough to solo up the mossy rock past the bergschrund. When I was standing on the lip of the schrund climbing to the left toward the rock, the snow was collapsing under my feet. I had a spreadeagle crossing of the snow bridge to the right...good memories! You are an animal man!

Thanks for the great TR. I did Klawatti and Eldorado last year and had similar soft/unstable snow conditions. Post hole a go-go! I'm hoping to do Dorado Needle and Austera in June. Was there much of a schrund on Klawatti? I remember the snow collapsing on me trying to get around it on the way up and not wanting to downclimb it (we found a "creative" way to get off) Nice pictures man!

Another vote from a Bullfrog convert...usually in repeated applications. I am also a believer in a brimmed hat and a bandana to cover the neck (if a helmet isn't needed). Don't forget the lips, hands, and inside of the nostrils, ears, and other spots. I use Dermatone lip balm for those sensitive spots. I have also used a white balaclava (doesn't absorb as much heat as black) from Helly Hanson that works well. Zinc oxide (as pointed out by Alpinfox) may look dorky, but so does lobster face and peeling...to say nothing of being more painful.

I give mine to a farmer/rancher type who has all kinds of uses for rope...he is very happy to take it. It gets many more years of use and clears space in my gear closet. I'm sure there are other people who could use rope that doesn't need to be up to climbing specs.

You are a lucky dog! I totally agree with the others...learn at least enough of the lingo to be polite, though many people there speak English (I try never to assume they do or). Will you get a rail pass or will you be staying in one area most of the time? Some climbs require train/cable car approaches...and a pass can save you a lot of money. If you plan on mountaineering objectives you have Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa, Piz Bernina, Gran Paradiso, the Matterhorn, etc. The Dolomites offer a wide variety of rock climbs. One option, if you can afford it, is to climb with a guide. I used one for a trip a few years ago and his knowledge of the routes and language was well worth the money. There are lower cost places to stay for climbers where they speak English and often you can find partners. Good luck and have a wonderful trip!

I tried the elephants foot scheme and never found it as warm as a full sized sleeping bag. Feathered Friends used to have the Rock Wren, which had a drawstring opening at the foot and arm zippers which made walking and cooking while in your sleeping bag possible...perfect for ledge bivy action. I have a Montbell Alpine down hugger sleeping bag which is 1 lb. 2 oz. and keeps me reasonbly warm on ultralight forays. If it's really cold, I just add the belay jacket. I actually use aluminum crampons (Trango Alpine Light). I have used them for climbs like Rainier, Whitehorse, Sahale, etc. They have worked well and didn't dull much or bend at all. But if I expect any amount of rock or ice...out comes the steel. I'd rather be safe than save the weight. Hope that helps, Cheers!

A lot of good advice has already been shared on this thread. My question is how confident are you setting pro and anchors on lead? How comfortable are you downclimbing on exposed routes and doing multiple rappels? If your rope management and pro setting are dialed in you are best served starting on routes a grade or two below what you comfortably lead at the crags and go from there. If you can go with someone experienced all the better to start. I remember doing all the routes you mention and just falling in love with alpine rock climbing. My favorite places to take "gym and crag" climbers are SEWS and Ingalls to start. You can't beat the views, the rock is good and easy to protect, and not too far in. Enjoy the transition!

Axes sold. Thanks to all for the interest.

Forgive the repeat picture from the thread TarheelEMT mentions, but I have used the combination you mention. I do mostly alpine climbing and not much serious vertical ice. The Venoms work really well and feel very secure for steep snow, alpine ice, and the occassional vertical steps. If you plan on doing technical ice, I'd suggest getting "real" ice tools. But, for the majority of alpine climbs in the Cascades the Venoms or something similar work great!

I remember the lean money days of college. Another option if you don't plan on doing technical ice climbing but do want to climb steeper alpine snow and short steps of ice, you can get a paired axe and hammer. I like the Black Diamond Venoms...the axe works fine by itself for glacier and alpine climbing. If I need a second tool, the hammer works well on most everything short of sustained vertical ice. The picks are changeable, so I can put a more technical pick on the axe if needed(and it still self arrests pretty well) Together they cost about the same as a single Quark. But, as others have wisely advised you can get by without a second tool for a lot of Cascade classics. I have used a picket myself as an improvised second tool on steep snow. Cheers!

Sorry, first timer on the Yard Sale. The axe is 58 cm. and the hammer is 53 cm.

I have used a DMM Bug for skinny rope belay/rappels for many years. It doesn't have autoblock capability, but it has worked well for me. There are plenty of devices out there that work, luckily they aren't too spendy. Good luck!

Since Frikadeller decided to make this a pictorial thread, I felt compelled to show my boot "quiver", but instead of a pile I further felt compelled to show some order and organization.

Like new Grivel Air Tech EVO ice axe and hammer. The hammer new is on sale at Mountain Gear for $140, so I am asking $80 each or $150 for both.

If you haven't already left this may help. I went up there 2 years ago. The info Scottk gave is right on, but there is another option if the Tahoma glacier looks too broken up...from St. Andrews Park go up onto the Puyallup cleaver and drop down onto the Puyallup glacier and head up to St. Andrews rock for your high camp. You would then drop down to the Tahoma and ascend from there. If you take this option I suggest not following the entire Puyallup cleaver...drop onto the Puyallup glacier just before Tokaloo Rock and ascend the Puyallup glacier just to the north of the cleaver to about 9200 feet for your camp. I'm including a couple of pictures...hope this helps. Have a great trip!

I've used a non-freestanding tent on a lot of climbs (including Rainier, Hood, Dragontail, Prusik, Daniel, etc.) before I had money to spend on better gear. If that is what you have, you can make it work with good guy-out technique and do just fine. I greatly prefer a freestanding tent myself, but not everyone can drop $300-700 for a nice 4 season shelter.