mountainsloth

Trip: Fee Demo Wall - Middle Fork - Date: 6/13/2010 Trip Report: I heard about this wall a couple years ago and have been trying to get on it since, but road closures and better destinations have deterred me. Then there is the issue of finding someone who wants to climb some obscure slab crag that is probably dirty and probably wet due to its north facing nature. So I convinced my brother, who is working on converting himself from a gym rat. What I found was fantastic granite slab climbing that was surprisingly clean and a bit wet. Mt Garfield was looking nice, but the lower slabs are still wet on Infinite Bliss. and it was a beautiful day in the middle fork /0134.JPG[/img] We were only out for half a day and so only got two climbs in. The first was the 5.9 Million Dollar Footbridge. It was long, a bit wet, and pretty stout for 5.9. Looking down from the anchors Not happy with climbing around wet streaks, we searched the wall for the driest climb and jumped on the first pitch of Wonderful World of Wreckreation a 5.10d of pure friction goodness! I was pretty surprised and psyched to have onsighted this one as it was my hardest slab climb to date. looking down from the anchors My brother following taking a rest All around, I found the rock to be superb, the bolts still looking great, well placed, and nicely spaced out so you don't get the exit 38 lameness. Give this wall plenty of time to dry out though, it seeps for a while. Gear Notes: Two ropes! pitches can be close to 60M and raps close to 60M. 15 draws should do you good. Approach Notes: 15 minute stroll along the middle fork river trail, the wall is on your right, you can't miss it.

someone should change the name of that peak to "perfect peak" love it!

great pics

I have actually had a very similar experience. I was bouldering in the clear cut at Gold Bar, goofing around in my approach shoes, slipped and my foot wedged between two very sharp rocks slicing my ankle into a gusher. No arteries were severed, and I did not need to be carried out thankfully, but it certainly solidified my stance that all climbing can be dangerous. Luckily my friend had brought his first aid kit and was able to bandage me up pretty well.

you could almost butt slide down the first pitch of silent running. it's maybe 50 degrees.

the wall dries quickly with a little wind and sun. I have seen it dry off completely in 1 hour before.

is yosemite the new everest? leave the bodies in pursuit of the summit? Douche Bags!

i love that choss pile!

you'll be fine. definitely soft for the grade. fun route. forget the #5

solid! love that route! i too have found silent running to dry off in an hour or two. go back for the final pitches, the last 10b is not to be missed!

blah blah blah

cool! looks like a fun trip!

Fun times

bouldering at the gym is not adventurous. clipping bolts that are spaced 6 feet apart at a crag that takes 5 minutes to walk to is not adventurous. by adventure climbing I mean it is off the beaten path, not the best rock, a bit obscure, and has a sizable approach... to put it roughly. this is all IMHO of course.

and I couldn't agree more, the 3,000 glissade was one of the best I have had.

as I was discussing with my mates on the approach, it is all about the experience. 3 days in the brothers wilderness is 3 well spent days, even without a summit.

Hey Erin, I was one of the party of 4 guys that almost followed you up the death gully. Solid work on getting up there, and sorry for almost getting you killed! (I was convinced it was easier and less chossy than it actually was)

adventure climbing is best!

I have been out there many times in the past six months and it is open till it splits off of the Taylor River right at the base of the SW corner of Garfield. From there it is a semi short walk and/or bike ride. This is right after a bridge and maybe 1/2 mile from the main Trail head. I think the closure you are looking at is option 1 of 2 heading into the Middle Fork. I think it is closed permanently but it doesn't really matter. Just take the low road (left).

cool!

That side of the mountain is amazing. Nice work!

and you can get permits for guiding large groups. I did Ross lake to Whatcom pass and back out in 8 days with 11 people total.

anyone been out there and know if the road is open to Tucquala Trailhead (end of the road) The forest service says as of April it was "snow free to Davis Peak Trailhead" but I would like more up-to-date info. Any help would be appreciated.

+1

i was out in Darrington this weekend showing a couple friends what it has to offer. Exfoliation dome. Climbed half of Revolver before getting pummeled with sleet and had to retreat. Spent the rest of the day checking out the comb area. Super cool stuff! Annihilator 11+ I think this is the beginning of a 4 pitch 11+. Look closely, that is a wave of overhanging granite with knobs! Sunday was a stroll up Silent Running My lady enjoying the day