mountainsloth

kick ass!!

kick ass!!

http://pics.ericlondon.com/displayimage.php?album=65&pos=3 Not a whole lot there, but enough to still be a glacier. This was easily one of my favorite climbs, right up there with the west ridge of forbidden.

Yea, we thought about rapping south, but once again, beckey said 2 ropes and we had one. we decided to go with the sure thing rapping the NE ridge since we saw all we needed for anchors on the way up and we were in no real rush. No issues with getting ropes stuck luckily.

Trip: Mt. Triumph - NE ridge Date: 8/23/2008 Trip Report: My buddy Salz and I took a trip to summit Mt. Triumph via the NE ridge. It took us all of Friday to get in there, what a slog, but man was it worth it. All I can say is, Fun Fun Fun! We decided to bivy on the white slab below the ridge, however I recommend you climb the first pitch, the sleeping will be much better. We simul-climbed quite a bit, pitching out just a few leads. We had a slight variation on the last pitch before the 4th class scrambling at the top. If you head left about 1/3 of the way up the pitch into a lighter band of rock you will find a nice set of fist to hand sized cracks on pretty solid rock with some fun stemming moves (5.8ish). Careful, as there are some loose blocks scattered around and atop the pitch. We were a bit worried about bringing only one rope, as becky says you need two ropes to rappel, however someone has made some nice rap anchors along the ridge allowing you to rap with just one 60 m rope and a little bit of exposed down climbing here and there. From bottom, to top, to bottom it took us 7 1/2 hours (many many rappels). We spend the rest of the summit day trying to get as far out as possible. Sunday we strolled the last 5.5 miles out. Fantastic climb, well worth the hard day in and out! here a link to some of the pics since I am computer illiterate and don't know how to URL. http://pics.ericlondon.com/thumbnails.php?album=65 Gear Notes: Cams to 4inches, stoppers and long runners. All anchors set. crampons for the glacier. 60m rope worked, 70m would eliminate down climbing gaps between some rappel anchors. Approach Notes: Thorton Lakes trail. cut left around the first lake, cross the outlet stream, skirt 2nd lake on right and climb ravine to obvious notch. Traverse glacier to obvious notch in NE ridge of Triumph.

sweet deal! i was up there Thurs. night into Friday. It was truly a cornfest on the slopes Friday afternoon. blue skies, and only one other person on the mountain. longest run i have had this year!