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ScaredSilly

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Everything posted by ScaredSilly

  1. Post up what you up want to ask. We had the ridge wired in our minds for coming down if we managed to get up and over. Unfortunately the weather kept us off the other side of the hill.
  2. Hey instead of bitching about what the producer might due how about bucking up and write a note expressing your concern that rescues especially those of climbers though high profile cost less than most rescue including mushroom pickers. Then point them to the AAC study and hope that they would not sensationalize these rescues anymore than they already are. Bill's comment is a good one - as it is called person responsibility.
  3. MICHAEL KENNEDY NAMED EDITOR-IN-CHIEF OF ALPINIST MAGAZINE ANNOUNCES APRIL 15 RELEASE DATE FOR ISSUE 26 www.alpinist.com
  4. The adventure may have been great but the writing was rambling crap.
  5. This might be of interest ... http://uaf-db.uaf.edu/jukebox/denali/html/levi.htm http://uaf-db.uaf.edu/Jukebox/DENALI/html/mowo.htm
  6. If someone does buy the tent and wants an Eldo ground cloth for it let me know. I have one that was used twice before I got the right one (I have and I tent).
  7. Not sure if this is style or stupid ... Decked from 20 feet up or so. Could still wiggle my toes so I got up, picked up my gear (wasn't hard cause it pulled out and was lying next to me), called it a day and drove home. Now home was a 12 hour drive. 6 hours into the drive I meet up with my parents who are moving and loaded/unloaded a bunch of boxes in our vehicles. Got home at 2am, told the wife who is nurse I took a little fall. Next morning decided to see the doc cause my shoulder hurt - diagnosis broken neck. Sported a c-collar for 12 weeks.
  8. When in Cham I like staying here: http://www.latapia.com great folks who run the place. Easy walking into town. I have skied most of the Haute Route. April/May is full on Haute Route season so make a reservation for the huts, bring your ear plugs, most of all ski light and bring your credit card. If you get the chance ski the Mer de Glace. Preferably on a beautiful day with a beautiful woman. Take a bottle of wine, a fresh baguette, some good cheese and salami, you get the idea. Oh if you are not a member of the French or Swiss Alpine Club. Join as you will get a discount at the huts. AAC members have some privileges as well. Either way the rescue insurance provided by the alpine clubs is a great benefit in case you need to call for the secours otherwise get out your visa card.
  9. Hey no problem glad I could help. Especially as it sounds like the tool was tested. A little Lime-Away might help clean the face a bit more. But if you are seeing a CB by the production code I bet that it is really a CH. Mine was pretty hard to see. I could actually see it better in the rubber gasket. And no worries - I did not think you were taking advantage of BD at all. I fully understood your dilemma, and felt that both you and BD were trying to do something that would work out best for all interested parties. I actually had something similar happen with a watch that could not be repaired.
  10. So you think that after 12 years BD should offer him a new tool free of charge because the original owner did not bother to send in the tool???? Even though at this point the tool is no longer made and in some regards nearing the end of it life time. There is also the possibility that the tool has been so worked the inspection test could break the tool - i.e. the tool fails not because of the potential mfg problem but because it is old. It would really suck for BD to have this happen. Sorry dude the head was good but the rest of the tool sucked. Can't help you. (I have seen other companies do something similar). At this point BD has done their due diligence. The OP knows of the potential problem. If the OP decides to continue to use the tools then it is his responsibility. I do not see it this way at all. BD has said we are no longer testing these tools as they have been discontinued for ~8 years. We have no equivalent tool to replace it. As said above, the consumer has some responsibility - especially given they bought it used. Rather than have the OP stuck with some that may be unsafe they are in affect buying from him by offering a discount on a set of new tools. This is fairly std. No there is no reason the OP should be stuck with it. He should return it to whom ever sold to him and demand his money back. The original owner should be stuck with it as they should delt with the problem 12 years ago. Oddly enough before I bought my set, I took my old blue shaft tools in cause the shaft on one was slightly bent. Harmy took one look at them an laughed. He said after decade plus years of hard use don't you think it is time to update your tools? He was right they has lived their life - they hammer is now down at a store as museum piece.
  11. Harmy marked them with a C running into the H that is ingraved on the face of the head where the hammer/adaze mates (i.e were the rubber gasket sits). It should be near the serial number. As for why does BD not just replace the tools. The tools are no longer under any warranty and there was no official recall (from the point of view FTC). As such their offer is reasonable given the tools are 12+ years old. Here is one link: http://www.mountaintools.com/techtips/index.html#
  12. Hey Bill, how did you manage to drag those photo's out of Dave? We talked about a year or so ago and I tried to get him to add to what I started to over on on mtn proj. I have wanted to get up to Wallowas to play and visit Dave but have not had the chance. As mentioned there is some good stuff up in the Elkhorns. Head up to Anthony Lakes http://www.mountainproject.com/v/oregon/north_eastern_oregon/anthony_lakes/106030207 BTW the Falcon guide has some of these routes listed as well as others but is rather inaccurate.
  13. Chris tested those tools around 1997/1998??? So long ago I do not remember. They should still be able to test them as I believe Chris gave them a pull test which did not require any special jigs. But as was said not sure they will. Paul is your best bet. No worries with the dilemma - they are great tools and I would hate to give mine up. Elmo always tries to make the customer happy.
  14. I have two of these that were part of the recall. Harmy tested the heads and then marked them as such and gave back to me and said have fun. Who did you talk to at BD? Elmo or Paul. Elmo is running the customer service while Paul runs the QA. You "might" be able to talk with Paul and have him test them.
  15. Not sure if it is still going on but last week when I was at REI here in SLC everything with a price that ended in .83 was an additional 1/2 off. BTW - I tired the Balturas. The pair got was 1.2 size too small. Instead of getting the next size which had heal lift up I punted. After looking similar boots made by Kayland and Scarpa I felt the gaitor on the Sportivas was too tight. Tight material is more easily torn. Now I am looking at either Kayland or Scarpa.
  16. I do not mind the shoers as for the most they do not totally fuck up the like booters. I have chewed out a few booters for screwing up a skin track. With the advent of fat skis - skin track etiquette has gone to to hell. Last winter I penned an article on simple backcountry etiquette. One point was that putting in a skin track is like doing doing community service. A track that goes up as steep as possible is dumb - though longer a more gentle track is faster and less work. More and more I find that I do cut my own track after some bonehead with fat skis comes through.
  17. Meth heads cruising for their next fix. The only alternative is to have pkg shipped to the PO insured with signature required. This forces you to pick up the pkg with ID. Only enough this summer when working on our house I rebuilt the old mail drop with a nice big slot. Now all of our mail goes through it and in to the house. Damn hard to lift the mail now. However, UPS and USPS stiff leave pkg on the front porch at least sometimes they put them better the screen door and main door.
  18. If some one picks up the Bibler Eldo and wants the matching Ground Cloth let me know I have one that was used twice that I would let go for $25 including shipping. BTW $325 for the two door Eldo is a great deal. The two door versions were killer. I looked high and low for one before finding an I Tent with two doors.
  19. Just an FYI, 0-8 are probably worth $200-$250. I think full collections were sold for something like $350-$450. So convincing someone to shell out 6 bills may be hard. As was said whoever makes the donation gets the deduction. If the donation is based on getting something in return, they must subtract off the value of the items they get. So in this case the donation is zero. As such, you would be better selling the rags and then donating the money yourself.
  20. Actually the show has done a lot for changing SLC for the better. Small things, like cabbie rules and club memberships, to large things like wilderness protection. You do not see these things unless you live here or really follow the OR news. Many many mfg come only to the summer show. Some come every other year or two. For example, Wild Things came to the show this winter. Though I live here and like walking down to it there are other good reasons for the winter show - demos on snow. The ski show is in Vegas, where you going to get snow? Though I spent lots of time in Oregon (lived there for 10 years), Bend is a bitch to get to by plane for a descent cost and there is no where near enough lodging let alone enough convention space. Reno is really about the only place that has both plus snow near by - and is a descent place. Portland is too far west so cost a lot for those on the east coast. I could go on but I think you get the idea. You are correct that the market is shrinking. The OR business needs a good cleaning out. Way too much knick nack crap from climbing holds to shoes to clothing to plastic dohickies. The recession will to that. Those with good products will survive. Others will go by the wayside.
  21. About the only thing that caught my eye were the new BD crampons. They are made from stainless steel. I laughed at their new umbilical system. Probably the most interesting are all the skis, fat, little side cut reverse camber. I am still in the dark ages with mine. Other than those few things it was a quiet show ...
  22. The watch altimeters are okay as are the compasses on them. But for precision and accuracy nothing beats a good analog compass and altimeter along with a map. They do not have batteries and rarely fail. Much rather use them for the most part. GPS do have their place - like finding your vehicle that is down in a desert wash.
  23. Having had both Giardia (a week after a trip to Broken Top) and Salmonella (the day following my wife while trekking in Peru), I too consider myself an expert on the subject of GI problems (i.e. I can explosively shit while puking at the same time) . Here is my take, in the backcountry of the US, Canada, and parts of Europe I am not that worried for the most part. Really depends on where. Sometimes I treat my water sometimes not. For instance, while in canyons I treat my water by filtering. Up on mountain less so. Why? canyons are collectors while mountains are sources. While in remote third world areas that has a local population around I will almost always treat my water. I have used, drops, tabs, and a filter. I really do not like the after taste of iodine tabs but have learned to deal with it. My filter for the past 20 years Katadyn Ceramic Filter. Great filter for above freezing temps. Leaving water in it with a hard freeze can crack the filter.
  24. 44th President on Jan 20 so it is a day after Inaguration day sale. Everything is either $20 or $44. Patagonia Womens Medium Wind Shield Jacket, light grey. Regulator Softshell. Again hardly worn as my wife did not really like it. $44 Alpine Design Women's Small (6-8) Gore-Tex Jacket. Blue and Gold. Another old school hardshell jacket, $20. Beal 10.2x 60m retired lead line - sheath is fine shape. Great as haul or rap line. $20.
  25. Mountaineering in the Sierra Nevada by Clarence King .
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