KirkW

I guess that would depend on what you view as flaming Rob.

You are correct Rob. Voicing that suspicion would be the right thing to do. Doing that in a way that doesn't involve name calling would be in line with the stated rules of the forum. Calling him a "dickwagger" from the East Coast, or at the very least implying that the OP, being from the East Coast, would be one to wag his dick about, is flaming. Flaming isn't allowed in the newbies forum and DPS, since he seems to spend most of his waking hours trolling these and other forums knows that well enough. He's reprimanded me in the past actually so I'm quite sure he's well aware of the no flaming rule. Why should this rule not apply to him? Because he has an illness and can't climb anymore? Because he used to be a real hardman? Because he looks really good in Prana? I don't actually have a problem with any of it. If duder wants to come out here and kill himself I say free fucks to em'. This threads been full of good advice and I don't really give a shit about the delivery of it all. Unfortunately there are a few on this board and more specifically the Newbies forum that have christened themselves the wise old men of the mountains. If you give advice that differs from theirs or in a way that they feel is mean spirited they don't hesitate to call you out on it. Apparently some of those same individuals that have taken up the righteous cause of the "newb" feel that the rules of the forum don't apply to them because they are sick or some such shit.

What a nice little foot soldier for the man you are Steve! You're correctthough, as a good Amurikan one should stop and present the valid paperwork to anyone wearing a uniform and giving you orders. Just like you're supposed to do in any fascist nation. Do whatever you're told and simply move along after paying you're fee. Total bullshit. Fight it. The Western Slope No Fee Coalition might be interested in hearing about this as well. Kitty Benzar has posted on these boards before and although I doubt they can offer assistance I'm sure they will have some advice. Good luck and keep us posted. If people don't stand up to this obvious bullshit and fight it then in the end we are allowing an individual ranger that was hired to do nothing more than patrol a parking lot to make up the laws as they go along. You had to hike past a locked gate for fucks sake and couldn't even shoot a deuce cause the shitter was locked. What exactly are they charging you for?

Having been castigated in the past, by none other than yourself, for flaming in the Newbies forum I'm left wondering if you've changed your mind about being a dick on the interwebz or if perhaps you just forgot to take your meds this morning DPS? Maybe you just forgot you were on CC and mistakenly thought you were posting to Summitcrap.com? As I recollect it those dick waggers from the east coast (I guess Texas is the east coast now) found themselves dead because of an injury and getting pinned down by a much worse than predicted storm that socked the whole damn Mt in for days with winds in excess of 100mph. It's real easy for someone who doesn't even climb anymore to armchair the decisions made by people they've never met doing things you no longer do. To the OP...yeah, BC solo touring probably isn't the best idea if your avy skills are lacking. Maybe you should use the partners forum and find a local who is interested in getting out while you are here?

I've been snowed on every month out of the year in the cascades and I've hiked in a T'shirt in the middle of winter on several occasions. Obviously as you move closer to "summer" the weather will get better in the alpine which also means that the "ice" you are looking to climb will be melting out. Having a clearly defined objective will help you in figuring out when to schedule your trip. I'd pick the route(s) first and then go when they are "in", if that is at all possible with your schedule. Weather patterns north to south along the entire range can vary a lot and often changes drastically from year to year as well. Last year routes that are normally melted out scree slogs by mid June were hanging in there until mid July and lots of places that normally melt out by July held their snow all year. The weather has been and looks to be again anything but normal. You can look up the historical averages and buy plane tickets and what not based on that data although I'd think throwing a dart at a calendar will produce results of equal usefulness.

Hey Paul! When is your Moolack guide gonna be out? We're all waiting with much anticipation.

Sent you a PM Caver. I'll take em'.

Excellent find FW. I can't say I'm all that surprised by the findings from the audit.

Check the library for a copy of "Oregon High". It might help. Unless you're looking for info about Mt Hood you'll be mostly disappointed with the lack of available beta on CC for most of the Volcanoes in OR.

Yeah, that "hope and change" thing didn't end up living up to the the marketing.

It's actually more like... "The new program yielded $7.2 million in total sales its first four months. Sales were projected at $65 million ($54 million for State Parks) over the course of the current 24-month budget cycle, which runs through June 30, 2013." (according to the document posted) The verbage used tells you all you need to know about how the state views the operations of our public lands... "The goal is to keep customer service in place in order to continue building Discover Pass sales, while the agency also works on a longer-term shift to a new business model reliant upon new revenue sources, partnerships and marketing." Since when did our public lands become a "business"? If they don't have enough money to keep the parks open why are they attempting to encourage more people to use them? Why does the public need to be "sold" anything? The parks dept. is now in the "business" of convincing me I need to give them more money so they can afford to "market" our public lands back to us? None of this makes any sense and I'm sorry but I'm not going to shed a tear about the fact that the "Discover Pass" idea didn't quite pan out the way they were hoping. As far as I'm concerned they've squandered enough money trying to "upgrade" trail heads and add services that were not needed. Now they can figure out how to do with less. Just like everyone else. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/1042713/TR_Horsethief_Butte#Post1042713

What does the grade of the climb have to do with how much pro you use? I'd think the inverse would be true. Sew up the slabby low angle shit and run it out on the steeper stuff. Once you are into the 10's the falls are usually cleaner and you won't need to put in as much gear or hang out in a shitty stance to fiddle something in. If you don't use up a single set of cams in a 50 meter pitch I'd say you are plenty bold all ready. Don't know too many climbers that would go 150+ ft with only a single set of cams. Assuming you can use up to #3 Camalot that leaves you with only 7 cams. Of course you'll be able to use a few of those nuts you've got but I'd think the hexes and yes maybe even the tricams would come in handy for a pitch like that. Don't believe all of the "advice" you are given on these boards.

I know! Isn't it just absolutely absurd how nearly anyone can go rock climbing, have a great time and then write about it! I realize this leaves you in the precarious position of having to decide whether or not you should read it and THEN you have to decide if you should post a snide comment in response or just keep your elitist opinion to yourself! I feel for you Ospray. I often find myself in the same situation. I usually decide to just go ahead and be a douche bag. Perhaps there are some homeless kids or jaywalkers that you can take your frustrations out on if venting on these boards doesn't work out for you? Too bad there aren't more officers of the law that are as kind and respectful as you. Out there walking our streets for us ensuring that we know how impressive and strong they are. It's nice to know that there's at least one cop on the beat making sure we all know just how weak and unenlightened we are!

Fair enough. Sorry to be a skeptical prick. I'm interested in the .3 and the .4

If I'm reading your two posts correctly it would seem that you've got some pretty cool friends to just give you a complete rack of c3's and c4's! No luck selling these locally? Just noticed you've got a brand new account and your on the other side of the continent. What's the story with these cams again?

Sweet photo. How'd you get that grapefruit inside your ankle?

Glad you liked my TR dougd. Thanks for articulating your well thought out opinion on the matter!

You're correct. You didn't advocate one way or the other. I apologize for putting words into your mouth. Changes are coming and I'd say it's about damn time. Both OR and WA have been frivolously throwing money at huge "improvement" projects for years and now they are reaping the consequences of those actions. Their answer to the empty purse they find themselves holding is to charge even higher fees that discourage use and privatization of management of public lands that they now find they no longer have the moolah to maintain because they blew it all on garbage cans, asphalt and shit holes. It's not the states job to make the outdoors accessible to every single person that has the gumption to drive a 60 ft RV into the "wilderness" and I for one certainly don't want to pay anymore money so that the state can turn it into asphalt and locked priveys.

So If I understand you correctly you are saying that because the State has done such an excellent job of managing the funds that we the taxpayers have all ready given them that we should now dig just a little bit deeper and give them more of our hard earned cash so that they can continue to maintain some of these "improvements" they've been busy with the last few years? I don't see what more money is going to do considering the way they acted when we gave them a healthy allowance. Selling off public lands to the highest bidder involves at least some token input from the public and we don't have to let those greedy bastards sell off the last of our resources. But we probably will.

I'm sorry Steve but the idea of "closing" a state park (or any public land) just seems laughable to me however I do realize that my incredulous attitude won't stop them from doing just that. Stop offering services and tell users they have to pick up their own trash and dig their own cat hole is fine by me, but "closing" vast tracts of PUBLIC land because the state can no longer afford to maintain it's "improvement"? I have less than no pity for the situation that both the states of WA and OR find themselves in right now. Of course in the end it'll be the general public that suffers for this, and the bill, in the end, will still end up being the responsibility of the taxpayer. As least those shiny pit poopers and nicely manicured trail (heads) will be looking good when the zombies show up to take them over!

Has anyone from the state called the repairman?

Want to climb the Picnic Lunch wall!

IDK. It looks to be about the same consistency as the rest of the pie filling that we call rock around here. All it needs is a couple of bolts and it'd be safe enough. I'm sure. Upon closer inspection I think I can see a dead plumb OW line right up the center. That tree looks like a sweet belay!

This might be what your looking for Bill Looks like 5g jug and 55g barrel are your only options. Sadly, no 10.

Awesome! Yup, that's us. You guys must have been freezing your nether regions off down in the shade of the Northern Point! I kept looking over there and feeling bad for you guys. Ain't Smith awesome when there's hardly anyone there?