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KirkW

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Everything posted by KirkW

  1. Way to elevate the discussion. So explain to me again what business joe dip-shit has telling me what I need to carry with me up a choss pile so he can feel better about how easy it is for rescuers (with their "slick gear and cool patches") to find my body? According to the latest info I saw, climbers account for something like only 3% of all rescues in the state of Oregon. What about the other 97%? What are we doing to save them from themselves? I can't figure out what it is you are getting at. You don't think beacons should be mandatory but you do think that we as climbers should engage in asinine discussions with people who's only information in regards to mountaineering is what they see on TV and read from the Oregonian. NO... I don't want to waste my time talking with these morons. It's not my job to educate these idiots and yes I am "rabidly opposed to any sort of regulation or critique" as long as it is coming from someone who doesn't climb. I am happy to discuss this issue with fellow climbers which is what I thought I was doing on this web site. I respect the opinions of the other climbers on this thread that disagree with me and of course we can all agree to disagree. But don't make the mistake in thinking that just because you see the value in it that others will and should feel the same. I don't like electronic gizmo's of ANY kind in the wilderness. I can't tell you the number of times I've been hiking with someone who spent the entire trip fiddle fucking around with their goddamn GPS while telling me that my compass/ map was wrong. What do these people do when their batteries die? Follow me and my ancient technology back to the truck. Maybe if they had an MLU, ELB, Spot, Fastfind or whatever, they could simply activate it and the helicopter would arrive to whisk them away to the safety of the nearest starbucks. No thanks, I'll stick with my own skill set, a map/compass and a PBR. That's it, I'm done.
  2. I think we should hand the mountain over to a private company that would be free to do whatever they want with it. They could claim it was for "safety" reasons that anyone wanting to climb would have to buy a lift ticket and rent a locator device to get above the Palmer. All other routes on the mountain would of course be closed. Poof...no more cluster fuck on hood. Thanks for your efforts Monty but as you can see it may just end up being a waste of your time. Sad, sad, sad. I can't wait until I can travel up a mountain in my own little personal, climate controlled ascent bubble and all risk will be removed from the climb. Perhaps then this d-bag with the crayons can feel good about trying save me from myself. Fuck that. (Sometimes I don't wear my seatbelt...while speeding!)
  3. "Spray (2 viewing) If it's not climbing related this is where you post it. Be warned this forum is not for the thin skinned." NOOO! don't kill this thread, I've got nothing else to do today and I've enjoyed this thread immensely! Hooray for spray!
  4. Couldn't have said it better myself... what a bunch of fucking self righteous d-bags.
  5. Last time I checked it was still free to climb Hood. The other mountains and places that Dane listed are funded by the people who climb them through fees or fairly direct tourist dollars. All you Portland climbers wanna pay every time you step out your back door? This whole thing just sucks. Experienced people have an ACCIDENT and now were talking about mandating that I carry an electronic gizmo with me every time I go for a walk in the woods. Every time something happens on Hood this subject comes up. We don't have money to take care of our roads and keep teachers in our schools but we're worrying about the government mandating what gear we carry? Seriously folks...how could they possibly enforce something like this with nearly 10,000 attempts every year? It would take alot of money. Money that we don't have as a state or a country. Not that it wouldn't be cool if the powers that be took an interest in managing the place...we all know it's a circus. Like I said...this whole thing sucks.
  6. And you can eat your oatmeal and drink your coffee out of it. Steaming rubber bowl of soup or instant mashed potatoes makes a pretty sweet hand warmer too! They work as advertised. (the cup is too small IMO and is worthless) http://www.google.com/products?rlz=1C1GGLS_enUS344US344&sourceid=chrome&q=squishy+bowl&um=1&ie=UTF-8&ei=rEUoS47nMJHWtAPd87G4DA&sa=X&oi=product_result_group&ct=title&resnum=3&ved=0CCkQrQQwAg
  7. Yeah...you're right...heating the cartridge is key. I use a "squishy bowl" with a shot of warm/hot water and empty /add as needed to keep the fuel warm. I store the extra with me in the bag. This thing beats the shit out of white gas setups when it comes to using it on ledges or in other awkward places. I don't have a hanging setup yet but would like one. Wind has very little affect on the stove. I won't say none...but very little. I've used it down to 0 degrees F and as long as I kept on top of warming the fuel it was no problem. I haven't used the dragon fly much and I'm sure for expedition or longer alpine climbs white gas would be the way to go because the canisters are pricey and a pain in the ass sometimes. But for most of the things I'm doing in OR and WA it KICKS ASS!
  8. Decided to check out Salt Creek falls for ourselves. It didn't look in to us...but we're noobs... www.facebook.com/video/video.php?v=1283449602344 We did stroll up to Diamond Falls and it looked better than SC Falls but you can't really see anything down in there without actually rapping in. The 200+ ft lower angle flow on the opposite side of the gorge was enough to keep us and our top rope busy. Had a blast! It was a bit thin in places but it seemed solid enough to me. I was shocked by how much ice I saw around me when I rapped in across from DC falls. Let me know if you wanna check it out the next time we get a good freeze.
  9. Anyone been out to Salt Creek yet?
  10. KirkW

    Moolack

    OK...so I was the one that was threatening to chop routes at Flagstone. I think it's ridiculous that the local climbing community tolerated it, but I'm not going to piss in your pond. I'm not chopping anything, I am just a total fucking noob spraying on the internet. I don't really give a shit about Flagstone bolts which is why I was on this forum looking for info about the mysterious Moolack. Since then I've realized that the info about Moolack isn't really secret, you just have to do a little digging and ask around. Like I said I'm a noob. As it turns out, CC was a good place to start digging but seriously guys...whats with the bitching, complaining and name calling. I couldn't give a fuck less about what El Jefe thinks of me but he was right for calling me out. I realized I was being the d-bag. Life goes on. Get the fuck over your issues and remember we do this for fun. It's not work. Checat-thanks for all the info. I'm looking forward to checking this place out. Give me a call if you need a belay slave-I don't melt in the rain. The sun is still shining in Corvallis. I'm going outside. Kirk Winkler 541-337-1340
  11. KirkW

    Moolack

    http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/menagerie_11-08_082_small.jpg Moolack looks just like the Menagerie? Thanks for the bolts on Rooster Rock though, I was hanging on them on Tuesday. The Callis route was a good time.
  12. KirkW

    Moolack

    One of the best I've ever seen. Nice work. Do you have any pictures?
  13. Don't know about the CO issue (it hasn't killed me yet and I've used it in a vestibule dozens of times) but I've had a Reactor for about a year now and my only complaint is the cost of the fuel vs. white gas but that same complaint would also apply to the Jetboil. And the damn empty canisters that are a pain to recycle. Other than that this is hands down the BEST stove I have ever used. Perfect size for two people, fastest boil/melt times available of any stove on the market. Consistent boil times (doesn't drop off nearly as bad as other canister stoves when it nears empty.) Good build quality. Absolutely AMAZING in the wind...I could go on and on. One of my climbing partners has a Jetboil that we used for over a year before I got a Reactor. We haven't used his Jetboil once since then. The only reason I would go with the Jetboil would be if I was doing a lot of solo stuff as it is smaller and you can pick a used one up pretty cheap on the web now. Good luck with whatever you choose but in my mind there is NO comparison between these two.
  14. KirkW

    Moolack

    Nothing important was in the original posts and after posting them I realized that I was arguing with a troll which actually makes me a moron. I was looking for info about moolack and made a comment about the grid bolting at Flagstone since I had just got back from there. Was a little disgusted about the bolts and was just spraying that I thought they should go. I settled down and decided that I had better things to do. I've got a big mouth sometimes and the internet isn't exactly a difficult place to stand on my soapbox anonymously and spew. I'd rather not have to try to defend my own ramblings sometimes. Weak, I know, but delete them I did. Gone forever and even I don't really remember what I wrote. However that's all beside the point. I was just looking for info about Moolack and I got it. Thank you to those that have offered me beta. Looking forward to checking it out. With or without the group hug.
  15. KirkW

    Moolack

    I actually came here and posted looking for some info about moolack not to start a bolt debate. I got off subject and realized I was dealing with a moron so I got rid of it. Don't really think sitting around flaming each other on CC is really a worthy endevour. As for it being weak. No deleting it wasn't weak...posting it in the first place was. I won't piss on the local climbing communities consensus but it's my right to think that you're all full of shit when you talk about climbing ethics. It's a fucking bolt ladder (2 actually) that starts on the ground for christ's sake and no body seems willing to call it what it is. Disgusting. With that said thanks for your hard work with bolt replacement. Whatever your opinion about flag I respect your work. And everyone can just settle the fuck down. Tvedts' bolt ladders are safe...for now.
  16. KirkW

    Moolack

    I guess not everybody thinks you're so funny...got what I came for...later asshole.
  17. Thielson is completely blown out of proportion by some people. It's easy class 4 in most places with a class 5 move or two if you go looking for it. Take your time and enjoy the view. Watch out for the newbs that are roped up on the summit pitch. They will be the most dangerous thing on this hill. I've heard people rate the summit pinnacle as high as 5.6 which is TOTALY rediculous. It can be done without making ANY class 5 moves. On the other hand...if you are just getting into this and unfamilair with class 4 scrambling then this may not be the best choice for a solo. It is quite exposed and a fall could be fatal. If you are comfortable on class 4 you will have a blast. If not... you are going to soil your pants. Good luck, have fun and be safe.
  18. We tried it on Solstice (6/20) and got stopped at the crawl. No crampons, partners 50 lb pack, balls were too small. See photo. Walked on consolidated firm snow from 500 yards beyond the trail head. We gave up on following blazes after a few hundred yards. Navigating ourselves was much easier and faster. The snow in the photo is either garbage at this point or it's gone. The hike in was EXCELLENT considering we only hiked scree for about 1/4 mile up on the ridge. Doesn't happen often on Jack when the rest of the route is in. Get some. Sorry I didn't post this BEFORE this weekend.
  19. Thanks for the info. Glad to know that it's at least open to Red Creek. We're going to hike in and see if we can find that log jam he's talking about. Hope it doesn't rearrange itself while we're in there.
  20. So I can tell the Ranger that I have your permission then if we get busted taking them all the way into the hut on the North Fork? By the way we're ditching the bike idea and taking these instead...
  21. I'm attempting glacier next weekend or the following. Waiting to see what the weather does. We're going to bike the 4 rd miles and hike/ski the rest as normal. We're planning on being in there for 3 days. I'll post again when we get out and let you know how this works out. I've been told that the biggest obstacle might be getting across Red Creek? Anyone have anything to add?
  22. uh oh...looks like someone is gonna get in trouble with the mods. LOL.
  23. Thanks. Apparently too many F bombs. I guess I offended someone with my language since my post seems to have been deleted. FUCK! this forum and most of the idiots on it.
  24. I don't care if they have dish network in their cave. It wouldn't have done them any good since SAR and MR couldn't get to them until today. END OF CONVERSATION ON THIS THREAD. GET IT! Please take your idiot conversation else where. Thank you.
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