KirkW

OMG! You know someone who saw OBL once! That totally changes my mind about everything. I can assume you did not watch the video then? Even though you keep insisting that someone show you some evidence that doesn't jive with the official conspiracy theory? On an unrelated note...I hiked up Mary's Peak last week and was able to see the ocean with a good pair of binoculars. I guess that makes me a professor of nautical engineering.

Not that this video, recently aired on PBS, is going to do anything to make you guys give any story other than the official one, any consideration. But I thought I'd share it anyway. PBS documentary. I'm sure all those scientists as well as the thousands upon thousands of people all around the world that are still pointing out that the official story just doesn't add up are all just a bunch of conspiracy idiots and the governments unwillingness to directly answer some VERY SIMPLE QUESTIONS can be easily explained away as "security concerns". Also...please explain how working for the government or military makes your opinion more valid or accurate than someone's opinion who does not? Oh wait, you're just another loud mouthed fuck face on the internet and what you do for a job doesn't mean shit in regards to this subject. Keep telling yourself you've got it all figured out though if that's working for you. Spray away dipshit. ...and for fucks sake Kev. Stand up for yourself. They keep asking for evidence and you just keep blabbering on about sheep. There's so many unanswered questions and inconsistencies in the official story that I'd think you'd have to be a conspiracy theorist to believe it.

Sorry. We decided to go choss surfing on Diamond, Washington and Broken top instead. When I showed my brother this thread he just kind of rolled his eye at me and said "ummm, no thanks". Guess it'll have to wait until next year for me. I'd love to see some photos of it though if anyone's been up there?

Couldn't have said it better myself. I missed that thread Matt. Got a link?

I've Z clipped only once. It happened on one of the 5.8 pitches on Eagles Dare on Acker rock. I wonder who bolted that route? I don't think I was a solid 5.8 climber at that point so I guess I didn't deserve to lead that pitch either. Actually, now that I think about it, I'm still not a solid 5.8 climber so I should really sell all my gear and head back to the gym until I get my 5.6 lead cert card. Anyone wanna buy a double rack of cams? Most of them have only be dropped a couple times. I've hung on most of 'em quite a few times though.

So you're saying that one doesn't deserve to lead climb unless you feel completely confident on grades higher than 5.6? What does that even mean Greg, and when did you turn into such an elitist prick? Why would you ever even bother with putting a bolt on anything less than 5.10 then? Sorry we're not all hardmen of yor. This is the kind of shit I'd expect from Checat but after seeing your work all over Oregon I had a much higher opinion of you. Guess I was wrong. I've done a shit ton of climbing in the last couple of years and I've only clipped my way up a hand full of sport routes in that time so as far as I'm concerned you guys can go ahead and chop any and every sport route you encounter whether it's for a 5.12 hardman or a gumby 5.6 trembler. Considering the number of bolts that you have personally sunk in the last decade I'd think that you should have asked these questions a hell of a long time ago. Or you're trolling. Either way I'm a little disappointed to see this kind of crap coming from you.

Thanks Will. Let you know if conditions have changed any by next week when we go check it out.

Anyone been up Jefferson this summer? Curious myself about the shape of the Jeff Park route.

Have your partner carry them and send them up on the tag line one at a time. Shouldn't take too long and they won't get tangled up with your cow bells that way.

Info HERE with an illustration. More HERE Looks like it would work well for a two person team with both partners carrying enough excess rope to reach each other. If self extraction is possible (often likely) the fallen climber can use the pre tied knots in conjunction with a single (pre rigged ) prussik to ascend back to the lip and can also be backup belayed by the partner up top the entire time. 30m of rope is plenty to do this with but it doesn't leave any room for error when you're tired and trying to measure it out by the arm load in a white out. I would mark just past the one third points of both ends ahead of time to make this easy when it's time to pull the rope out.

We also climbed and skied Adams this weekend. Conditions on the standard climbing route were mostly perfect with only a few spots of rock that required us to take our skis off on the way up. Snow conditions from the summit all the way down the SW chutes were perfect! We were able to ski all the way back down to within a couple hundred meters of the TH except for the short traverse/ climb to get back to the climbing route, but it's melting fast and won't last long with these temps. There had to be at least 300 people on the mountain on Saturday. Get some.

quality

Skis are much faster, both up and down than booting it. I went from Paradise to Muir in 90 minues on skis. My fastest outing on boots was 2 hours. Just saying. You didn't bother to read the rest of my post did you?

Thanks for posting up about your trip. Sounds like a great time. I've spent the last few years booting or slow shoeing up the cascade volcanoes and then, at best, sliding part of the way down on my ass. Based on my previous experiences, your time up and down would have seemed impossibly fast and I'd have said you were lying, crazy, dangerous or some combination of the three. This year I learned how to ski (kinda) and my view of what's possible on a volcano has completely changed. Although I'll never be making speed attempts on RainyR I can appreciate those that are out there pushing boundaries and redefining the "normal". Nice job and ignore the haters!

Got a link to any of that reading? I'd be curious to know the story behind this.

Not that having the entire sheet of ice you're climbing peal off the mountain isn't a shit inducing episode. I'm certain I'd have to change or abandon my undergarments after an incident like that. ...and Rob, you're welcome to go fuck yourself with your ice tools. Sorry if I missed your little joke. I guess I don't spend every waking moment trolling internet forums so I can insult people I don't know to make myself feel better. Happy climbing!

Joseph, some times I couldn't agree with you more. Nicely put.

Maybe...maybe not. He was leading on doubles so I'm assuming he had gear in below him that should have saved him from "death". Scary shit for sure but there is nothing in that video that shows someone coming anywhere near death. Good example of why climber's should get their asses out of bed earlier.

Rooster Rock - 5.4 on nuts. That's a long ways to drive for 2 hrs of hiking That's a different Rooster Rock. I'm referring to the Rooster Rock just a few minutes east of Portland, in the Gorge. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=507635 Oops. My bad. Thanks for pointing out that TR. Looks like I'll have to check out that Rooster Rock too.

Rooster Rock - 5.4 on nuts. That's a long ways to drive for 2 hrs of hiking, 40 ft of mossy, chossy, ledgy climbing and a few feet of scrambling. If you want to check out the area I'd highly recommend the Callis route on the south side. Much better climbing, but the R rating might be a little more excitement than you're looking for. Also, there's a solid 5.7 simply named South Face on Hen (I think?) rock just a little ways down hill and to the west. Good pro if you don't mind digging for it a little and fun climbing. Cool area but don't expect to be able to follow the chalk marks.

Not so bad me thinks. Of course I just got me first set of ski's this spring so I might be a little biased.

Maybe someone will be nice enough to chime in with more recent beta but this TR is from three weeks ago. The weather since then has been...pretty interesting, to say the least. The current weather might actually be improving conditions up there. Or turning them into a nightmare? Good luck if you head up there.

This Washingtonian thinks our state will survive just fine without your "tourist dollars", your "facilities inspections", and, your incessant complaining. I propose a "whiney baby" forum be added to cc.com. It would be a catch all for this type of "discussion". It shouldn't be in a climbing forum IMO... I'll nominate KirkW to be the moderator of this new forum. Mods? Please? d Ya know Doug if I didn't know better I'd think you're pretty sick and tired of hearing my opinion. You are welcome to ignore it. It's not like I'm sending you PM's and protesting outside your house but you've accused me of whining so many times that it's making you look, well, kind of whiney. I'm not sure what it is about my opinions specifically that puts sand in your panties but I'll go ahead and apologize if I've done something to personally offend you. :kisss: If you're waiting for me to shut up about this issue you better have a comfortable seat, 'cause it's gonna be a while before I drop this one. I actually find it amazing that you guys haven't gotten rid of this stupid policy yet, considering the results.

A quick google check didn't come up with the source for that number you just quoted Joe. You got a source for that other than secret information you got from the ranger at Beacon? Also, ever since My last trip to the Gorge I've heeded your advice and just stayed the hell out of WA state parks. I've stayed the hell out of WA actually. Not only did they not get my $30 for this bullshit pass they've missed out on all the other tourist dollars I would have spent there, as well as the dollars from several other people that I know of that think this whole thing is bullshit and just another way to rape the public. Since so many people feel this way Joe I suppose you would be in favor of just closing the WA parks down to anyone who doesn't have extra income to help pay for locked shitters and massive parking lots? How much money do you have to make to be able to experience public lands? I don't personally have as big of a problem with paying for access to public lands as I do with the way this program was developed and launched on the public with little warning and in a way that was obviously intended to gather as many dollars from penalties as it was from the actual pass. We were planning a trip to WA this summer with some friends but the "pass" situation in your state convinced the WA natives to come down here to OR and check out some of our lesser traveled areas instead of tossing their paychecks into the money grinder that is the WA state parks system. And, the Ranger's actions in this situation are indefensible and I'm glad to hear the judge threw this trash out.

2:23:51 Unbelievable that Hans is still doing this. Looks like he finally found the right partner! This one might stand for a while.