KirkW

Joseph, some times I couldn't agree with you more. Nicely put.

Maybe...maybe not. He was leading on doubles so I'm assuming he had gear in below him that should have saved him from "death". Scary shit for sure but there is nothing in that video that shows someone coming anywhere near death. Good example of why climber's should get their asses out of bed earlier.

Rooster Rock - 5.4 on nuts. That's a long ways to drive for 2 hrs of hiking That's a different Rooster Rock. I'm referring to the Rooster Rock just a few minutes east of Portland, in the Gorge. http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=507635 Oops. My bad. Thanks for pointing out that TR. Looks like I'll have to check out that Rooster Rock too.

Rooster Rock - 5.4 on nuts. That's a long ways to drive for 2 hrs of hiking, 40 ft of mossy, chossy, ledgy climbing and a few feet of scrambling. If you want to check out the area I'd highly recommend the Callis route on the south side. Much better climbing, but the R rating might be a little more excitement than you're looking for. Also, there's a solid 5.7 simply named South Face on Hen (I think?) rock just a little ways down hill and to the west. Good pro if you don't mind digging for it a little and fun climbing. Cool area but don't expect to be able to follow the chalk marks.

Not so bad me thinks. Of course I just got me first set of ski's this spring so I might be a little biased.

Maybe someone will be nice enough to chime in with more recent beta but this TR is from three weeks ago. The weather since then has been...pretty interesting, to say the least. The current weather might actually be improving conditions up there. Or turning them into a nightmare? Good luck if you head up there.

This Washingtonian thinks our state will survive just fine without your "tourist dollars", your "facilities inspections", and, your incessant complaining. I propose a "whiney baby" forum be added to cc.com. It would be a catch all for this type of "discussion". It shouldn't be in a climbing forum IMO... I'll nominate KirkW to be the moderator of this new forum. Mods? Please? d Ya know Doug if I didn't know better I'd think you're pretty sick and tired of hearing my opinion. You are welcome to ignore it. It's not like I'm sending you PM's and protesting outside your house but you've accused me of whining so many times that it's making you look, well, kind of whiney. I'm not sure what it is about my opinions specifically that puts sand in your panties but I'll go ahead and apologize if I've done something to personally offend you. :kisss: If you're waiting for me to shut up about this issue you better have a comfortable seat, 'cause it's gonna be a while before I drop this one. I actually find it amazing that you guys haven't gotten rid of this stupid policy yet, considering the results.

A quick google check didn't come up with the source for that number you just quoted Joe. You got a source for that other than secret information you got from the ranger at Beacon? Also, ever since My last trip to the Gorge I've heeded your advice and just stayed the hell out of WA state parks. I've stayed the hell out of WA actually. Not only did they not get my $30 for this bullshit pass they've missed out on all the other tourist dollars I would have spent there, as well as the dollars from several other people that I know of that think this whole thing is bullshit and just another way to rape the public. Since so many people feel this way Joe I suppose you would be in favor of just closing the WA parks down to anyone who doesn't have extra income to help pay for locked shitters and massive parking lots? How much money do you have to make to be able to experience public lands? I don't personally have as big of a problem with paying for access to public lands as I do with the way this program was developed and launched on the public with little warning and in a way that was obviously intended to gather as many dollars from penalties as it was from the actual pass. We were planning a trip to WA this summer with some friends but the "pass" situation in your state convinced the WA natives to come down here to OR and check out some of our lesser traveled areas instead of tossing their paychecks into the money grinder that is the WA state parks system. And, the Ranger's actions in this situation are indefensible and I'm glad to hear the judge threw this trash out.

2:23:51 Unbelievable that Hans is still doing this. Looks like he finally found the right partner! This one might stand for a while.

That's what I was hoping to hear. Thanks for the info!

Nice job. What elevation did you hit continuous snow at?

Sorry to not be very helpful.

True, being from snow country, the last thing I want is a weak algorithm managing any skids I happen to get into. So yeah, I similarly don't delegate belaying to a device either and don't think belaying off anchors is a particularly good idea. But it does play into doing other things than belaying when belaying if one is already so inclined. Weak algorithm? You obviously don't know anything about antilock brakes produced after 1990. Is the advice your doling out regarding climbing as up to date as your opinions towards automotive technology?

http://www.nwac.us/forecast/avalanche/current/zone/13/

For posterity, as they say. What a fucking douche bag.

I need a set of steel (not aluminum) pons to fit my tele boots. Don't need to be new and shiny just in serviceable condition however I wouldn't turn down a sweet deal on a newer pair. PM or kirkwinklerat gmail DOT com

I never realized that Wayne had such a massive beard. I guess most pictures I've seen of the man were taken from below and the center of focus usually seemed to be his ass hanging out of a crack with very little, if any, pro in the frame. Can't really judge a man's facial hair from that angle. I think you and Shapp and I should go skiing and straighten this whole timeline thing out. The slog up the Palmer would give us plenty of time to discuss and I've never climbed Hood. Then I could finally write that Hood South Side TR that I've been dreaming of. In regards to the columns and the rock fall and all that. Yeah, they're falling apart. Just like everything else. The stories of shifting columns will continue. Glad the city is taking it seriously. It'd be a shame to loose this place. Thanks Joe for keeping the rest of us informed.

I would concur with Water. I was over on the N last weekend and what was decent skinning and skiing conditions would have been a miserable suck fest without flotation. With the recent weather you may find either fresh snow or rain saturated slush. If you have limited experience in the cascades I'd definitely recommend flotation of some sort, a single mountain axe, poles and pons if you plan on traveling early in the morning on any steep slopes. Good luck and post up a conditions report if you go.

Sounds like Alpine et's skins are just a little too small under foot so I'm still looking if you've got some collecting dust.

Sorry for not putting the little smiley in to indicate my poor use of sarcasm. I'm having trouble figuring out what your talking about because the rock fall that was recently cleaned up and closed 1/3 of the columns happened after the block fell off Limp Dick. Way after actually. The two events are completely un-related. So if you climbed el Limpo "shortly" before the rock fall I'm trying to discern exactly what "shifted" on you because that top block wasn't there.

Sweet! Sent you a PM.

I need something that will fit a 175 at least 90 under foot. Looking for something to make it through the rest of this season with so they don't need to be in perfect condition if the price is right. Thanks!

My apologies for the snarky comment Shapp but you did say just before the first rock fall/closure. The top of LD fell off(was removed?) years before the first big rock fall came down on the right side and has absolutely nothing to do with the current state of the columns. Perhaps your talking about the FIRST first rock fall/shifting/ closure that happened before Orton's guide came out? Or maybe you're referring to the some other rock fall/closure that occurred that I'm not aware of? And, for the record, I didn't climb LD. I fell up it.

We skied off the notch at the base of the NE arete (around 7800)on the N sister on Sunday and found perfect corn well into the trees. We didn't take our skies off until around 6000 . Granted, the last 500 ft was survival skiing but it really wasn't that bad if I could do it. TONS of good snow left in there and I'm getting new planks tomorrow! Get some before it's gone.

Looks like a gumby dumping a bunch of gear they bought but never/rarely used. What about his posting would make anyone think it's stolen gear?