TwoFortyJeff

I sent a message for some screws and the alpine and ice & mixed books.

I try not to go out in really bad weather, but I if I know the clouds will be coming and going, I will sometimes bring wands so I can find my way back down. For going up I use a map, compass, and altimeter. I'll mark waypoints on the map and write down what the bearing is. I use my altimeter to let me know when I reach a new waypoint on a line. It's not perfect, but it always works out.

Does anyone have any first hand experience with using this tent in the Cascades? I am looking to pick one up for winter ski trips (think snow dumps) and spring/summer volcano climbs in case the weather turns bad. I realize that it is small. I can live with that.

What size is the Speed 40? There should be a little tag somewhere. Probably where the should strap meets to lower pack.

Old #4 C4s are purple

Spend as much money as you can on a down bag that meets your needs. 12 years ago I was a college student but I scraped together a few hundred bucks to get a top of the line bag (on sale). It's the only piece of gear that was lasted over 10 years and I expect to get 10+ more out of it. Today the same bag would cost twice as much.

I can buy that. Backcountry created something of an online community and they are enjoying a lot of business. I would think the two are related. REI has said they want a strong web presence. Maybe they will find a way to incorporate the MP community into it. Very refreshing to hear that MP is being allowed to continue to do what they do.

That is quite an unexpected market for REI considering how their climbing aisle at many stores has been shrinking.

How were the bugs?

Do you recall if the north face of concord looked dry?

Whoops, I was thinking of Baker for some reason. Anyways, if you do the approach from the south, running shoes work great. Buying based on fit is the most important thing.

I just use running shoes for most approaches. I take boots if there will be any steep snow or glacier travel. For the North Ridge specifically I would do the entire thing in lightly insulated mountaineering boots. It's such a short approach that swapping out boots for shoes wouldn't gain much. Doing it in ski boots is common.

So there are some new bouldering routes on the ground now?

I was up there in September so I can't comment on current conditions. I forgot the exact mileage, but the road is closed at a major bridge about half way up. Bring a mountain bike for the long ride in. The road was in great condition.

That's a lot of Patagonia and Montbell for a student budget. I think that is too many layers for up top. You'll want a baselayer, a warmer midlayer (fleece), a hardshell, and a warm jacket. The windshirt and softshell are a bit redundant. I would go with: 1) Whatever zip neck midweight baselayer you can find on sale 2) Any lightweight fleece (think 100 wt or R1, etc). You can get these at thrift stores, Marshalls, TJMax, etc. Add a thick powerstretch balaclava and you have something cheaper and more versatile than an r1 hoody. 3) The First Ascent hardshells are a great value and always on sale. Try it on with your helmet. 4) Down jackets are also expensive. This is where I would spend most of my money (they last forever). The UL Down will not be warm enough unless the weather is just awesome. The Alpine Light is nice. A windshirt is nice if your hardshell is not breathable and the weather isn't too bad. Softshells are comfy, but too heavy for what you get. Pant layering is easy. Light softshell pants that cut the wind just a little, midweight baselayer, and a hardshell pant. It's nice to have full zips for the hardshell pants, but not necessary. The main thing that matters for boots is fit, so you're just going to have to try on every pair you can find. You can usually score used plastics on craigslist for next to nothing. Definitely get something insulated if you have cold feet.