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MarkMcJizzy

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Everything posted by MarkMcJizzy

  1. How about these protection bolts at Marble Canyon. There are seven of these protecting a 5.4c. All have hardware store "biners" afixed, so those don't even have to be brought to the crag. I don't have a particular problem with a well bolted beginner route, but the large fixed chains in leu of QD's, and the dangerous use of non-carabiners is pathetic.
  2. Static slab is rotting away. Most of the anchors are A3 piles of shit. Until alot of the anchors are replaced, Static point will remain the stupidest place to climb in Washington.
  3. Takeda's book is poorly written, and goes off into many spurious tangents (is this book really the proper place to recount the {erroneous} industrial history of Gore-Tex). It is sadly too much about Pete Tadeka, and not enough about Nanda Devi. A couple of more books that deal with this region "War at the top of the world: The Struggle for Afghanistan, Kashmir, and Tibet" by Eric Margolis (2000) Reviews "Spies in the Himalayas: Secret missions and perilous climbs" by M.S. Kohli (2003) Reviews Much of the first book is now dated, as it was written prior to 2001. Never the less, is an excellent primer on the volatile nature of this area, and it's historical chapters are first-rate. The second book recounts the placements of several nuclear powered "listening" devices in the Indian Himalaya, in the early to mid 1960. This book is much better than Pete Takeda's, although there were a couple of minor errors which Pete Takeda points out. Most of the errors were due to the unavailability in internal Indian documents. The participation of civilian American climbers caused much controversy, and the false accusations that the 1975 American K2 Expedition was involved in a similar cause is recounted in Galen Rowells book "In the Throne Room of the Mountain Gods"
  4. None. I am sure that given the distances you were dealing with, plane surveying is completely applicable.
  5. I could, and so could
  6. The above is from a thread where MattP decided to "out" me and my avatar, without my permission, because he knew better. Also, previous to this,when I was posting anonymously, I recieved calls at my house on several evenings to discuss BS from this site. Creepy. The calls were from a well known moderator (who is not my friend Feck). If people want to remain anonymous so they don't recieve late night calls from creep moderators, they should be allowed. And moderators should leave people alone. This site, and this site alone, is the proper place to discuss CC.
  7. I bet someone wishes they had remained anonymous
  8. Areas that have been substantially logged are considered inappropriate for Wilderness designation. There are examples to the contrary, such as areas impacted by mining and activities ancillary to mining. Some spots inside the Glacier Peak Wilderness are examples of these uses. But areas which have undergone northwest style industrial logging do not get included into wilderness areas.
  9. Never had snowblindness, but I have been (welding) arc flashed a couple of times, including in one eye. Normally passes quickly (a day or two).
  10. No, dumbass. Best Friends in on Bothell Way. 522 changes at Ballinger Monday: Bikini Day Taboo Tuesday Booty Short Wednesday Thursday: Various
  11. Kenmore Air , but very few lakes in the Cascades are accessable by float planes, and those that are, would probably offer little in the way of climbing. Lake Chelan, thence up to Holden or the Stehekin River, or possibily Ross Lake.
  12. Do not ever do this This will remove the battery from the circuit, where it is needed to "temper" the voltage coming out of the regulator. This is a good way to fry your ignition chip and printed circuits. I learned the hard way.
  13. You'll be down to 195 after six hours of jack hammering. Now hurry the fuck up, you should owe me money, goddamn it.
  14. Donn Heller is unfortunately dead, and Don Harder lives in California. He posts at this site The FA was the FFA They were in existence when I first climbed Sag in 1980.
  15. That's a laughable bunch of crap. Static was one of the very first crags in North America to have seen the extensive use of a roto-hammer. Not very traditional
  16. Today was Bikini day at Best Friends! I can hardly wait until tomorrow!
  17. Anker doesn't like Mallory as much as the late Dave Chesmond did. When I first met Dave Chesmond, he told me "I'm just back from Everest, buggering Mallory's dead body"
  18. National Geographis TOPO! maps are re-packaged and re-manipulated USGS maps. My point is, except in very few cases, when you buy a topographic map in the USA, you are in the final analysis, buying a USGS map.
  19. Is my battery charger included?
  20. There was a published study in "Climbing" circa 1991-1993, by a BSME which stated that caulking in anchors could and would lead to a greater and quicker degree of degradation. I wish I could do a better job of providing references.
  21. Does it come with chips?
  22. Whoa you're not alone pal
  23. Some may disagree, but many feel that USGS maps are the bench mark which all cartographers in the world strive. Some smaller countries have very excellent maps, and some private endevors make good maps of special areas, but no one else has done as great a job of high quality mapping of a large country as the USGS. Most privately produced topographic maps in the US (Green Trails as an example) use the topographic mapping of the USGS.
  24. This is weird. Second hand information, using RC as a confirmation, which is in turn using CC as a source. Chicken and the egg all together And implications that the media in Bend has "Blacked out" the story. Lame
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