MarkMcJizzy

Hey Pat, Please send me a PM Mark

The auto belayer at Stone Gardens is manufactured by either DBI-Sala, or MSA (Mine Safety Appliances). These are companies that have been involved in industrial fall protection "forever". They are expensive, and only a fool would allow anyone but the manufacturer to crack the case. Auto belayers are a slightly different ( Lowering clutch versus complete stop clutch) version of the fall arrestors which are common in construction.

I'm wrong. I believe that the original Silent Running was about 60' right of the present route. I remember two sustained 5.9 pitches protected by beer can hangers, one pitch going over a small overlap. They seem very different from the modern route, which I most recently did a week ago.

I think that what ever "Magic Bus" is now, it in no way resembles what Peter Wojcik and I did in 1979. I think we placed two protection bolts, and two belay bolts. Whatever people are doing now is cool, and the fact that the name persists is nice. I have seen other routes transmogrified at Darrington. The first two hard pitches of Silent Running must be about 60' to the left of Silent Runnings initial pitches? I did Silent Running a bunch in 1980, and the route was much different.

No, it's not a typo. It is refered to as "Broomstick" once on page 78, three times on page 79, and once again each on pages 67, 103 and 109.

Bull fucking shit. I have Smaill right in front of me, and it's Broomstick. I showed you the goddamn book, remember. You saw it with your own fucking eyes. Broomstick Why are you two such dweebs?

Dave Anderson told me once, on an attempt of the North Norwegian Buttress, that Don Harder said: "I don't know about you fuckers, but I'm going down" Any truth to this Don?

Probably more like thirtyfive years

The definitive work on Columbia River Basalt distribution ( Bentley, Riedel, Swanson, and others (1987)), shows the CRB’s flowing out of the Columbia Basin, squeezed by the proto Cascades in the Columbia Gorge. The flows then entered the embayment of the Willamette, and extended to just south of Salem. In the Astoria area they were constrained by the Coast Range on the south. Breaching this, the flows traveled south along the coast, to at least Florence (if I remember correctly). I spent four fun filled days following the Columbia River Basalts to the ocean with Dr. Robert Bentley in 1984.

Today would have been my friends 51st birthday. Happy birthday John. RIP Here is a photo of the day I first met John and Peder Ourom, March 1979.

Yabo died in '91

Dennis Johnson, one of the greatest Seattle Sonics has died. He was instumental in the 'Supes '79 championship.

No, it wasn't.

...with rigid connections to the belay biner, that can crossload the belay biner. It's not gonna happen with something like a regular ATC or Trango Pyramid that only has a lightweight keeper wire. No, but many biners can turn 90* to the load, then suddenly the axis of the load is directly outward on the gate

Similar problems can occur with all devices. If I remember correctly, a Gri-gri blew apart a biner on a solo climber on El Cap several years ago. It was written up in the AINAM. The figure 8 may be more problematic though.

I was in Salt Lake City once, when a storm happened on October. It was almost as fucked up as here in Seattle two days ago.

I enjoyed the Machame Route. It is very scenic, and gains altitude in a pleasant manner. I have also heard good things about the Shira Route, which joins Machame at ~3800m. All these routes will be crowded, as will the Mweka Route. I believe that the Western Breach is still closed, and that the non-normal routes are also closed. A northern route would be interesting, but are supposed to be less scenic, and even more monotonous

Kurt's noggin is 100%, and he was sent home from the hospital at least a day early. It appears as though his motor skills and abilities have taken a quantum step upwards. There is about a 100% improvement since about a week ago

HEY!!!! YOUR ROADIE WILL BE THERE!!!!!!!!!

I have learned that Harvey Manning has died. He was an important environmentalist, and the author of many books.

rbwen says: Then, in response to all sorts of nonsence, I say: In case this isn't a sarcastic troll, "Syncro" is the name VW used for their 4WD Vanagons; similar to "Quattro" used by Audi, but a bit different in the way the system works. So, it is not my fault that people have been talking about apples and oranges here. Volkswagon can fuck off.

Oh my gosh, what a weekend: 1) rat and I visited Feck (AlpineK), and had a swell time watching “Shaft” and "Patton” Score; Good guys: 2 –Bad guys: 0 USA: 2 – Germany: 0 2) rat and Kurt needed to boost their self-esteem at the price of mine. They proceeded to gang up on me, and attempt to criticize me for various things. I realized that these actions were a cry for help, and Rolf was finally seeing the fallacy of his yin. My yang won out, and Rolf is now all sunny and nice. Score; yin:0 – yang: 1 3) rat and I then saw “Borat”. Rolf thought it was too plebian for his tastes, and would have been happier seeing “Waiting for Godot”. I actually thought that “Borat” was a little high-brow for me Score; Me:1 – rat: 0 4) We then took Feck to the Food Court at the Overlake Shopping Center. Kurt brought no money, so we had to pony up for our head injured pal Score; Kurt (Feck): 1- Rolf and I: 0 5) The Big Event - Seahawk Sunday. The newly yang powered Rolf cheered his lungs out for the hometown Seahawks as they rallied from behind to win. Score; Seahawks 24-St Louis 22 And a big “W” in Rolf’s positive energy column!

Kurt is slated to have his removed skull piece re-installed on Thursday, November 16. This is a milestone event in his recovery, and should allow him to travel with less concern. He should be in the hospital until the following Saturday.

Wow, what do you guys know? A syncro is short for syncromesh, a part of a standard transmission which allows the gears to mesh easier. Without a syncro, you have to double clutch

AlpineK said I don't know,but it looks like he's selling alot of shit. Bronco said (and I bring this up because Bronco is so insightful) Where is crazyjz, he's one of the better posters around here. Always says what's on his mind. Sincerely, Mark McKillop Ferns Crazy Uncle from the States