MarkMcJizzy

Nope, never climbed with Werner, played football with him, Russ Erickson, Cal, Anderson, and McKenna though

Looking like that in 1982, and still getting up the thing 25 years later

Here are some (poor) photographs Most of the avy rounds I have seen were fired from a recoiless rifle, and were concussive rounds. These appear to be anti-personnel. And, they probably required a heavier gun than most avy control shooting

Edit to add: Thats fucked that this board is so scared of Dan H o w i t that I can't spell h o w i t z e r

What does shrapnel from a howitzer look like? I have been finding chunks of a metallic material, about 3/8 of an inch, by 3/8, by up to six inches long, below the east face of Liberty Bell. It is clearly not a mineral, and some portions may retain some machining. It seems too thick for the shell of a howitzer used for avalanche control, and I'm not aware of any artillery control up there. I'm wondering if it could be the remains of a big aerial iron bomb dumped by an aircraft during an emergency during WWII

Gilkey Trench, Juneau Icefields

How do you know I'm not? Dumbass Edit to add: We are in no way even yet Dru, watch out, your time is coming.

It goes thru several tunnels, probably with strainers in attendence. For all I know, it could go thru a siphon. There have been several deaths of Police Divers in irrigation canals in Washington in the last twenty years. A really good way to die a stupid death

Mead is not well

Hunting is legal in Wilderness. Deer high hunt is soon, also.

No you didn't, you said: Which came off as standard Dru bullshit. Pot, kettle, black

Fuck off Buddy

It's also a little self-serving how the only part of this thread that you moved to spray is the portion pertaining to yourself. Is not Chuckles and CBS spray worthy?

It is difficult to rectify those two statements. But you mention it every other sentence I have no idea what is on Magic Bus, because it has been retro bolted like mad. When I did it, there were three bolts total on it. And immediately after the FA, I thought it was the stupidest route in the world. That is something that you don't know Now it is the time for you to try to get the last word. Rattling your chain is like shooting ducks on a pond.

Wow, don't hurt your shoulder patting yourself on the back. You're such a needy person, just buck up, shut up, and quit telling everyone how selfless you are. um, yea. What else was available in 1979? Pre recall? And your point is?

No Matt, I'm sorry I irritated your thin skin, I just shocked that an expert bolter like you would not be aware of Ed Leeper's well publicized recall Yea, yea, like I'm really interested in keeping you informed on my whereabouts You are a selfless individual, and deserving of canonization

That's a little snide, like a 1% failure rate on a critical item is no big deal Whats that have to do with anything?

My main concern is that they look like total shit. I didn't have a cresent, or I would have removed them.

From: Greg Barnes Ed Leeper is once again reiterating the warning of the danger present in his recalled hangers. Between 1962 and 1984, 95,000 of them were sold, and at this time, almost one in a hundred is prone to sudden catastrophic failure - even if has never once been weighted. Copy hangers that were homemade are even more likely to suddenly break, even with only body weight, let alone a fall. This appears to be a form of stress corrosion cracking, but he is not sure. The rate of failure increases if the hanger is visibly 'dished' out by an over-tightened bolt. The full text of the updated warning is on the ASCA info page as a small PDF file. If you know of any cases, or see any out climbing, where a Leeper hanger (not the bolt) broke, please call Ed immediately at (303) 442-3773. Well Matt, the guy who made them, wants them all removed from service because he feels that they are very dangerous. This has been common knowledge for about 15 years, announcements in mags, etc.

Absolutely not. Most of the belays are composed of one rusty 3/8, a 1/4 button head, and a 1/4 thread head. Many of the hangers are Leepers. A2, A3 Whatever. They are still unjustifiable pieces of shit.

How about these protection bolts at Marble Canyon. There are seven of these protecting a 5.4c. All have hardware store "biners" afixed, so those don't even have to be brought to the crag. I don't have a particular problem with a well bolted beginner route, but the large fixed chains in leu of QD's, and the dangerous use of non-carabiners is pathetic.

Static slab is rotting away. Most of the anchors are A3 piles of shit. Until alot of the anchors are replaced, Static point will remain the stupidest place to climb in Washington.

Takeda's book is poorly written, and goes off into many spurious tangents (is this book really the proper place to recount the {erroneous} industrial history of Gore-Tex). It is sadly too much about Pete Tadeka, and not enough about Nanda Devi. A couple of more books that deal with this region "War at the top of the world: The Struggle for Afghanistan, Kashmir, and Tibet" by Eric Margolis (2000) Reviews "Spies in the Himalayas: Secret missions and perilous climbs" by M.S. Kohli (2003) Reviews Much of the first book is now dated, as it was written prior to 2001. Never the less, is an excellent primer on the volatile nature of this area, and it's historical chapters are first-rate. The second book recounts the placements of several nuclear powered "listening" devices in the Indian Himalaya, in the early to mid 1960. This book is much better than Pete Takeda's, although there were a couple of minor errors which Pete Takeda points out. Most of the errors were due to the unavailability in internal Indian documents. The participation of civilian American climbers caused much controversy, and the false accusations that the 1975 American K2 Expedition was involved in a similar cause is recounted in Galen Rowells book "In the Throne Room of the Mountain Gods"

Amen to that