MarkMcJizzy

It is probably due to localized mafic enclaves, and has nothing to due with Pliestocene glaciations. Snow Lake is a cirque lake, and it's former glacier seemingly projects higher than the top of the SCW. Glacial features are also found high in the Enchantments. Large igneous complexes like the Mount Stuart Batholith are composed of a number of plutonic masses which vary in composition through time, and three dimensionally. I always considered the chicken heads the dispersed mass of an older, more mafic portion of the batholith, which was intruded by younger, more acid rocks. I remember seeing higher in the Snow Creek valley a site where this relationship was more clear.

Fred ain't OK in the Antarctic No, Ben pointed out that Fred is still alive. Nevertheless, your goodie goodie two shoes merit badge is in the mail How about the US Board of Geographic Names? Or the Washington Board of Gepgraphic Names, of which Fred is a former advisor? I would think that his many friends there will do a fine job without us.

Wrong again, dumb dumb This true in US but other countries this is not always the case. For instance, several peaks in Antarctica were just named after the members of the expedition that made the first ascent of Vinson. Most of which are still alive. Not sure who regulates peak names in Antarctica but I would guess that the USGS Board was involved. But the whole premise was an American Cascade Peak, not a peak in another country I nominate the Lower of the Twin Shit for Brains summits as Mount Scared Silly

Wrong again, dumb dumb

The phone book, eatonville wa

19.375

Describe

He fell while leading, probably in October of 1977. I believe that the late Reese Martin belayed him, and the next responder was Charlie Hampson. He was known for running it out, and was using just a couple of stoppers. The upper one failed, and he hit the large ledge. He was being belayed through a Stitch plate, and it was thought by some, most notably Ed Leeper, that belay devices cause higher impact forces, leading to more placement failures. Leeper did an in-depth analysis of this accident, and his suppositions on rope-dynamics/fall forces can be found in Summit (cira 1978).

I found this on Supertopo. I do not know if it is real or not, but here is a pasted copy from ST. FOR IMMEDIATE RELEASE: The Orange CCH Alien cam that was reportedly involved in the Paradise Forks incident, has turned out to be dated 10-05, rather than the highly publicized date of early 2004. This information has been verified the by the Coconino County Sheriffs Depart both verbally and in photographic form, with Dave Waggoner of CCH, during CCH’s own internal investigation. It is however still unknown if this unit was clearly dimpled. The window of the recall was 11-04 to 12-05, thus any Alien cams date coded during this period should be tested, dimpled or not. CCH will tensile test customers’ Aliens, of any manufacture date at no charge, to ensure that they will withstand a fall. Testing is done to 2/3 the rated tensile strength. After testing, all cams are currently being identified with a “Tensile Tested” stamp on the main swage above the loop. We will test and return cams to our customers within 1 week of receiving them. Please attach your complete contact information to each unit being returned for testing, to facilitate a speedy turn-around. Dave Waggoner Colorado Custom Hardware Inc. 115 East Lyon Street Laramie, WY 82072 USA (307) 721-9385

1) There has been discussion of the suitability of stainless bolts in a marine environment http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=239389&f=140&b=0. The main concern seems to be the activity of the chlorine ion causing stress corrosion cracking. That said, I have spent a lot of time in pulp mills with highly corrosive marine, acid, and basic environments. SS is used often, and I have never heard of an engineer ever being concerned about stress corrosion. 2) Simpson glue is available in tubes that use a standard caulking gun. Their glue conforms to many of the same specifications as Hilti glue. With any glue, cleanliness of the hole is of prime importance. 3) If the rock is well indurated (competent), I would think that the matrix would be the best place to drill. I disagree with much of this. There are many examples of shear cutting through the cobbles and the indurated matrix of rocks in clearly sedimentary terranes. This can be seen in several locations of the Peshastin Pinnacles. The main factor determining joints propagation is the dynamics of the jointing. Shear jointing will travel thru cobbles in even rather poorly indurated sandstones. Unloading joints will follow the surface of the cobbles. Metaconglomerates are a very common metamorphic rock, and are likely to be found where continental sediments have been metamorphosed. The Cascade River Schist has some nice examples.

I have climbed this route, and did not have a topo. In regards to your need for a detailed topo, the topo referenced is six pages long! Do you need seven? Follow all the bolts until they disapear for awhile in the middle, follow your topo thru this section, then follow the bolts again. Except for the middle section, the route is very, very easy to follow. And the detailed topo will get you thru the middle. Bring two ropes, water, a bunch of QD's, your topo, and maybe a few small nuts and cams for the middle section.

But you're OK with Manke running their Cat up there to re-grade the road for the express benefit of boulderers? They have to pay for their Cat and fuel somehow, and they are a lumber company. Your tone reminds me of someone who wants to bite the hand that feeds them.

There was no bouldering, and limited access to Zeke's wall, prior to the initial logging. In my mind, this whole climbing area is a product of logging. As such, a disruption to climbing by renewed logging should be viewed as temporary problem.

Well, after three weeks, a Kurt update is probably in order. Kurt is living at his folks house, and waiting for some tests to determine when his skull can be all zipped up. I speak to him often, and saw him yesterday. He has all his facilities, his personality, and his sense of humor. He gets tuckered out, but is healing up well. It is only a matter of time before he is hosting crazed parties at his house.

Linda Goldsworthy and John Zehren will be hosting a rummage sale for Kurt this Friday and Saturday. All proceeds will go to Kurt. The sale is in the Broadview area of Seattle 12533 1st Ave NW

John Bachar has apparently been seriously injured in a car accident, and his climbing partner has died in the same accident. Link to this news on Supertopo.

I would guess that mid-September may be too early for Kurt to attend, but there is an outside chance that he could attend at a later date. No, it's not. The intrusive rocks stop at about 6,000m. These intrude, and are in fault contact with, Tethyan and other supracrustal rocks.

Your path to temporary riches

Ban somebody, ban somebody for me. The first evening, JZ and I went to your house to secure things, and I turned off your computer. I never once thought (OK, maybe once)of logging into CC on your identity, and banning a bunch of people. You owe me a bunch of Uberator like banning. Also, the following CC folk showed up at Arborview one time or another: Klenke, Mattp, Allison, Jeff Hansell, Porter, Pax, Dru, Jordop and probably more. Rolf, TFM, Don, and Glo also visited. We all had many fun filled conversations regarding various torture schemes you wanted visited on members of the Tippy Turtle Alpine Goupe. Some of us were even nominated for NASA's Man/Monkey Space Injection Program. All in all, normal behavior for yourself.

Over two days, Jeff Hansel, Tom Hisey, Rich Turley, Linda Goldsworthy, Audrey Zehren, Rolf Larson, and myself worked on Kurt's house in preperation for his eventual return. We ripped up a bunch of old flooring, so Doug Klewin can laydown Pergo with no trip hazards, put up some guard rails, and threw away construction debris. Rich Turley is a saint He worked his ass off for more than eight hours for a person he has never met face to face, just to do the right thing. If anyone needs any quality remodeling by a quality person, i recomend Rich and RWT Construction. He does fine work, and has a huge quality of good karma he totes to the job site.

Wow, That pin sucks. It is at least as old as the FA of Heart of the Country, although it may be as old as GM. I know that Randy beat the shit out of it on the FA of Heart, but that was 26 years ago. There was some talk of replacing it with a bolt, which I feel is totally justified in this case, a old pin with a death fall potential.

Please feel free to visit Kurt when ever you would like.

I would think that in reality, that global cooling causes much much more erosion and mass wasting than global warming. The volume of material removed by pliestocene glaciers dwarfs anything else.

Kurt is funny and smart, and has a good understanding of what has happened to him. He understands the importance of his safety measures, and the reasons why. There are ample reasons to believe that a 100% recovery is possible, something that I was pessimistic about just a week ago.

As posted quite awile back, Kurt's house will need a work party to alleviate trip hazards, etc. Who could help, and when? One or two days this weekend would be good for me. Any skill level is OK.