counterfeitfake

You clearly haven't read any of the discussions. You can have whatever uninformed opinion you want about the gear, but your logic is faulty and nobody else should listen to you.

Crazy, I was pretty convinced one could act like a complete asshole here and never suffer any consequences. Guess I was wrong!

Why has nobody just put in another anchor on that wall? I don't think extra bolts are always the answer, but on a route this popular, when two more bolts would mean nobody has to trail an extra rope, it seems like it might be justified.

Who has climbed on one of those? It looks like it would be a really weird experience. What is the advantage over doing up/down laps on an easy gym route? Besides not needing a belayer?

Is there a good story about why you were bailing off Givler's?

So what makes your opinion valuable? We just had a firsthand account of a bolt wiggling when touched. Do you have anything that is actually worthwhile to add, or should we just conclude you trust bolts as much as your average sport-cragger?

Man, this place sucks.

Why do you think that? Here is the RC.com thread, which has a lot of good info. Those who are saying "It failed at X, that is still pretty strong" are desperately missing the point. The point is this company told you it was rated to Y. Their manufacturing process is inconsistent enough that there is no way to know what you're getting. Pull testing is a joke, especially under these circumstances. Having a consistent process and testing a representative sample to failure is the only way to be trustworthy. When pieces fail they should fail considerably above their rated strength, and with a consistent failure mode. Multiple failure modes at well below rated strength... how can anyone argue that this is not a huge problem? It is a shame, because Aliens are so nice to use, but they plainly can't be trusted. If you are so in love with them that you want to continue using them, that is your business, and I do not criticize you for it. But stop spouting horrible faulty stupid logic.

Please, stop with the anecdotal evidence on this topic. It shows that you don't really understand the issue at hand. "Mine haven't failed" is not AT ALL a sound or reasonable argument.

Man, fuuuuuuuuck that thing. I did eventually make it.

That... is brilliant. I don't know why I didn't think of that.

Wait, you're saying that crags with a 30 second approach were crowded on a sunny weekend?

Thank you for having the wall. It was totally cool and responsible for 4 of my visits to SG this winter.

http://cascadeclimbers.com/forum/ubbthreads.php/topics/814303/Re_The_sad_f_ing_truth#Post814303

Worst I've ever seen it.

No.

Ah sweet, it's been a while since Gary started a thread about how the world should work better and make more sense.

I believe the AFD is designed to work with AT boots. Some potentially relevant info.

Can anyone tell me what current ice conditions are in the Hyalite/Bozeman area? Is everything covered in snow? I've never been there. Montanaice.com seems almost devoid of information. If anyone knows another relevant site I'd love to be pointed in the right direction.

Whoa, that's like having your cake and eating it too! Only if your cake sketches you out when you try to eat it...

I'd like it to be the way it was before. Can you make a CSS that does that?

You guys just periodically need to fuck around with things?

Gary... are you being an insulting twat on purpose or accident?

Whaaaaaaat are you talking about.

I followed Sagittarius (hey look, I figured out how to spell it) so I am not sure what I'd do, but I think my leader left the #6 near the top of the "chimney" section. He probably put it in somewhere near the middle and walked it. Maybe my memory is off though.