counterfeitfake

BIG WOMAN

I suggest the top of R&D. Behind that sketchy boulder.

Looks hard. I'll stick with Index.

That the boulder might not be a safe anchor IS a reasonable argument... edited: I should say MIGHT BE, not IS

How many bolts are you going to put in to make it "safe"? It's a trad line, and properly so. Lots of features. Easy to build gear anchors. Ledges. Sitting belays. Low-angle. This may be a "high-traffic newbie area" but it is still a multipitch trad line. It's climbed by beginner multipitch trad climbers, to learn beginning multipitch trad. You shouldn't climb R&D if you don't know how to place trad gear. You shouldn't go on this route if you don't know how to build a gear anchor. You shouldn't go on multipitch routes if you don't know self-rescue. This is a case-in-point. I still don't understand your reasoning and don't think you've explained it very well. For adding bolts to an easily-protectable trad route, if the best argument you can come up with is "what could it hurt", then, I think no. No bolts.

aw jesus here we go

What situation? The one where you need to rappel down to rescue someone? Bolts would be more convenient, sure, but I don't think that boulder is considered unsafe. As far as I know people have been evaluating it as safe and anchoring to it for a long time... I think these guys could have gotten in over their heads on many other routes. Many routes have pitches longer than half a ropelength. How many routes are going to need "rescue bolts"? I guess I don't really understand your reasoning. Also, not to kick anyone when they're down, but IMO that crack on R&D shouldn't be too hard for anyone to get up on toprope. Whatever sketchy business they did to get him off the rock was surely harder and more dangerous than him just sucking it up and climbing. Or even using a pair of prusiks to aid past the hard part. I'm sure the pair learned a lot from this, and hope they apply it effectively the next time they go out. bad judgment -> experience -> good judgment

I'd try just to be courteous. But I don't think it's mandatory.

The direct start is gnar as fuck.

Yes, if you take it easy in places.

Right on! We passed you guys on the way to the Grand Wall. Watching you lower out from that roof reminded me why I haven't been aid climbing in a while...

I think that is not called retrobolting. Just bolt replacement.

Get a laptop and a satellite internet connection so you can participate in SPAMROD.

he was trying to make a joke

Jens is my favorite troll.

Hey, bivy wherever you want, do what makes you happy. But if you bivy uncomfortably on the summit when you had time to descend a short distance to a plush spot, that can fairly be called "contrived".

made by my friend Jon Morris

How is her left arm shaped like that??

Way to go Will. I like your style, dude.

I've often wondered about a beer/coffee only day. How does that work for you?

your all idiots

We're talking about a guy who had as his signature for many years, "I love pussy but never the bitch it's attached to." How are any of you taking the guy seriously at all?

I think racking with a clean nose wiregate might prevent wired gear from freeing itself and taking the plunge. A while ago I was on a quest to find the ultimate racking 'biner. I thought it would be a clean nose wiregate, and bought about 5 different kinds. I was picky and found all of them lacking in some regard. Some of them have really small gate openings. I know I own a Helium but I can't remember which one that is. I am still mostly using Neutrinos.

No, we stayed in the hut because we are SOFTMEN. Although that extra 45 minutes of approach every day was an ass-kicker. I might think about tenting it next time.

I just returned from the Bugaboos and they are in great condition. B-S col is still mostly filled in, the 'schrund is just starting to open. The glaciers are mostly covered with no crevasses showing. Most routes seem to be free of snow. The weather was nice for 3 days in a row. Go get it!