counterfeitfake

Hm. I have a friend who took a healthy fall onto a C3 and it blew, and sustained lobe damage like it sounds is described above. Does this happen to other cams?

P2 of Davis-Holland is an awesome thin hands crack.

Last summer? Sounds like them. The blonde was the badder ass of the two and knew how to hand jam. The dark-haired one wasn't so comfortable doing that so she just followed the entire pillar as a layback. Just ridiculous. We were around town for a week and ended up giving them car rides a couple of times. Got to hear a story about eating marmot in some European mountain range...

Yeah Nate, I was joking, although I saw it done once by this badass Slovenian girl. Uh, Angel is not a hand crack.

As was established, OS is a face climb with a crack for pro. P2 Rattletale? I would say Split Pillar but everyone knows you can just lieback that.

I dunno man, that 2.5 cm could no doubt save your ass at some point. That's easily the difference between a fist jam and an arm bar. Versus saving 3 ounces? That's for the people who haven't bought one yet, obviously OP will be able to make it work.

don't do it dawg

Rapping seems goofy to me. Just walk down to the Lane/Bryant saddle and then walk the rest of the way down.

The crack gradually widens. To protect it well you need a new C4 (or WC) #5 and #6. I think that means an old #4.5 and #5. It sucks to lug all that cam around for the one pitch. You could always run it out at the bottom or top. It might be scary.

marriage sounds fun

no

I haven't used that thing, but it doesn't look like it would be anything like drytooling.

So this big chunk of metal you're taking with you on ice climbs can't clean out an ice screw that is more than 3.5 inches long?

WD-40 is kids stuff, go with PB Blaster.

Damn, is that half a WRX? Ice on rock good, ice on road bad.

Do you want to really ski, or just approach climbs? Skiing in mountaineering boots is extremely hard and probably not at all fun. Climbing moderate snow and ice in randonnee boots is not too bad.

I've been there in late December/Early January. Sure, it is worth the trip. The weather was cool in the morning and at night, and warm during the day. The climbing is almost 100% bolted, and there are lots of long multipitch routes. From one of the nearby campgrounds it's about a 15 minute walk to the first crags. You can also rent a room at one of these places, and there are several little restaurants nearby so if you don't want to cook for yourself you don't have to. I'd say it's easy to find partners there if you're friendly, the campgrounds all have a good social scene going on. I flew to Austin and took a bus to Monterrey, this is NOT the best way to get there. I don't recommend it at all, it saves on airfare but is not worth the time and headache. I would fly into Monterrey. From there you take a bus for a few hours, to Hidalgo I believe, and from the center of town you can take a taxi to one of the campgrounds, or you could make the walk in under an hour.

Where do you live?

I just bought a new pair of Vipers. They came with a micro hammer and micro adze. I'm looking for opinions from people who have used them: How much harder is it to drive a piton with the micro hammer? How much harder is it to chop ice with the micro adze? I've seen it argued (dane?) that you don't need an adze... I am probably more concerned about the hammer anyway. I've also seen some people claim that the tools swing better with the full-size hammer.

I have heard of this. Were there bolts for pro too, or no? That would have been gnar as fuck.

Dude.. layback like 15 ft and there is a good foot edge out left... stem off that and start jamming. Its tight hands but there are nice contrictions. I think we have the same idea and I was just guessing on the height. But laybacking on the sword pitch above the pillar and Perry's wide crack above that seems nearly mandatory. Not to mention the Sail Flake! Once I'd climbed that route and made it back down to the ground, my buddy said to me over a beer, "Dude... there's a lot of laybacking on that route."

yeah all they need to do is like drive a truck over to the nearest oil well and fill 'er up why does it cost so much

classic

gotta go with donny on this one. But... that's Walter.

You obviously have not been paying any attention. Look around, info is very easy to find.