counterfeitfake

Right on! We passed you guys on the way to the Grand Wall. Watching you lower out from that roof reminded me why I haven't been aid climbing in a while...

I think that is not called retrobolting. Just bolt replacement.

Get a laptop and a satellite internet connection so you can participate in SPAMROD.

he was trying to make a joke

Jens is my favorite troll.

Hey, bivy wherever you want, do what makes you happy. But if you bivy uncomfortably on the summit when you had time to descend a short distance to a plush spot, that can fairly be called "contrived".

made by my friend Jon Morris

How is her left arm shaped like that??

Way to go Will. I like your style, dude.

I've often wondered about a beer/coffee only day. How does that work for you?

your all idiots

We're talking about a guy who had as his signature for many years, "I love pussy but never the bitch it's attached to." How are any of you taking the guy seriously at all?

I think racking with a clean nose wiregate might prevent wired gear from freeing itself and taking the plunge. A while ago I was on a quest to find the ultimate racking 'biner. I thought it would be a clean nose wiregate, and bought about 5 different kinds. I was picky and found all of them lacking in some regard. Some of them have really small gate openings. I know I own a Helium but I can't remember which one that is. I am still mostly using Neutrinos.

No, we stayed in the hut because we are SOFTMEN. Although that extra 45 minutes of approach every day was an ass-kicker. I might think about tenting it next time.

I just returned from the Bugaboos and they are in great condition. B-S col is still mostly filled in, the 'schrund is just starting to open. The glaciers are mostly covered with no crevasses showing. Most routes seem to be free of snow. The weather was nice for 3 days in a row. Go get it!

That is quite a spree, nice job!

P2 of McTech Arete. The most strikingly beautiful line I've ever climbed. I did it a couple months after leading my first 5.10a and I remember it as one of the hardest leads I've ever done. I think I didn't hang, but don't quote me on that...

That is awesome.

If you can't reach it, you can't retreive it. Routes where this is the standard approach will therefore usually have a piece fixed there. If you're just cleaning a traverse, hopefully your follower left the pieces close enough together that you can clean each one. You can also re-aid a section, if you have the gear for it.

w00t!

I don't know nothin' about the smoke, but climb Nutcracker!

The purpose of an EMP attack, unlike a nuclear attack on land, is not to kill people, but "to kill electrons," as Graham explained. Worst analogy ever.

Yeah, I too would be interested in knowing exactly what we're talking about. Where is Free At Last?

Now that the rock has fallen, shouldn't it be less worrying?

Fox, I am not talking about that, although we had a look at it on the way down. Looks good, and a party we met up there had just come off it and gave it the thumbs-up. Peter is right, it's the wide crack in the left side of the bay, up the right side of which goes Rattletale P3. Vertical to slightly overhanging, and probably 9" wide, not quite wide enough to get my hip in, but narrow enough for heel-toe most of the way and good chicken-winging (if there is such a thing). Oh and dirty and mossy, although less so today than yesterday. Is that Chasin' the Lizard? I was guessing it would be an Index 5.10a OW but I don't know me offwidths so good.