counterfeitfake

As I said elsewhere, the approach to GGB is far worse than it was a few years ago. I agree Dreamer is as good or better than Outer Space. I think it is a lot harder though. The warning about the rope-eating flake is very apt. To get down, I suggest you just move climber's right and rap down Safe Sex.

Yeah, those panos are AWESOME. Thanks for making them!

Just in case people reading this don't know any better... I climb at Edgeworks and disagree that it is a "bouldering gym". I think at least 3/4 of the space in there is dedicated to roped climbing, with a fairly healthy lead climbing section. The routesetting is good, and if you're in the neighborhood you should check it out.

Beacon Rock sits atop an intersection of several of the spray lines that crisscross the earth's surface.

Before I had ever been up Dragontail, I had read a lot about potentially rapping for the descent. Once I actually reached the summit I didn't understand at all. It was strictly a walk-off for me. Although in late season it is probably pretty icy. I'd imagine raps are sketch since few do them.

I assumed thirty years of marriage would arm one with an answer to this question, but you surely know better than I do.

I can't believe your approach to smoothing things over with your wife is to buy her a treadmill.

Jason is a professional guide and a really helpful guy. Let's not discourage him from being helpful on this forum by acting like dicks to him.

I just think it's pretty funny that you wankers are going on and on about how real climbers don't use tape, when our resident hardmen just tape up and go send. Less spray, more action.

Is this the rope that disintegrates on contact with rock? I thought you could not return climbing equipment to REI?

Yeah, that looks fine to me. I think the figure eight isn't really even necessary. I don't fully get what the manual says but selkirk's take on it seems reasonable. Crillz has a good point on using the rope, too.

You could probably rip that bolt hanger apart with your bare hands.

So who's going to break the news to these guys?

I don't understand exactly what you're describing, maybe you could take a photo or draw a picture. What do you mean by "feed each end around a tree"? What is the figure 8 for? It's probably fine though.

When were you last up there Ken? I've done the approach 3 times, we didn't make any wrong turns or anything. Fenderfour was with me, maybe he will agree or disagree. An hour seems very fast to me, but what do I know. Road is somewhat bikeable until it quits being a road... might be pretty muddy depending on recent rain. Doesn't seem worth it to me.

Depends on how tough your lady is. I was up there in July. It's gotten lots worse since I first did it 3 years ago. Depending on your vehicle you can drive farther- a high-clearance truck will get you past a wash and then around the big tree trunk. Probably buy you half a mile farther than a car. We parked at the 3 o'clock rock (bridge creek?) trailhead because someone had taken up the parking spots a ways up the road. We walked probably 45 minutes on road, and then headed up the totally defunct road into the forest. The trail has become more overgrown and has been wiped out in one spot by a slide- stick with it and follow clues to re-find the trail after about 100 feet of bushwhacking. Cross the river then get into an open meadow, and boulder hop past an old pipe to the big creek. If you don't know the right spot to turn right and uphill, it's going to be tough. It's above a big hunk of rock by the creek, where a dry creek bed is completely covered over by a canopy of trees. You're basically 'shwacking up a narrow tunnel for a few hundred feet, before it clears out. This is as far as we went because it started getting cold and windy and it was clear it was going to rain. I'd budget 3 hours to get to the base of Dreamer/Safe Sex. A few hours with a machete and a bow saw could do a lot to make this trail easier.

I like the spirit of this. But I don't know where the route starts and ends. Want to tell us? Maybe that crux pitch will clean up.

No one here questions how amazing this is (I think), but think of it much like guys watching the Miss Universe contest and critiquing a mole on an amazing girls' thigh..... No, it's not this at all. Climbing skill and douchiness of personality are independent of one another. Nobody was picking at a miniscule aspect of her climbing skill. It is more like laughing at Miss South Carolina's incomprehensible rant.

Viewed as a whole, her long discussions are just as awful as the sound bites that compose them. They are fractally intolerable.

sure it does, note the characteristic brokenness

These days when I'm cragging and reach a two-bolt anchor, I clip my personal leash into one bolt, and I clove hitch the rope into the other bolt. Simple. When rappelling I ad-lib depending on how sketched out I feel...

That's cool, I agree. I used your topo when I climbed the route (and it's good) but had heard the bottom is harder than suggested. When I got there I looked at it... and roped up. It's the Beckey guide that calls it 3rd class, isn't it? They just don't make hardmen like they used to, I guess.

I've done it twice. It didn't seem hard either time. The top seemed clear and straightforward. The bottom got more confusing but was never too bad. One time I rapped, and the other time I didn't. I think if you start bushwhacking you're doing it wrong and should back up and keep your eyes open. Also, you can find cairns everywhere... they won't necessarily lead you down the rap-free descent. But if you get to a rap, you may as well do it.

What are you talking about? You don't know how it was done, all you're doing is mindlessly pissing on someone else's achievement. I'm sure if you were half as good at climbing as you are at talking shit on the internet, you could go up there and show them how to lead 5.13 with style.

I don't see that. I don't think I can picture a 5.13 face climb bolted on lead. So the danger level is arbitrary, with bolts or a fixed line.