counterfeitfake

Might have been done on lead but poor form. IMO. Why? Why is clipping bolts for a lead better form that clipping a fixed line? I really want to know the logic.

Man, thank goodness you've got the camera though... great report.

Are there glaciers in the 'Gunks? I've never been there.

Dude, I don't know what the problem here is. You just told us that the North Ridge of Stuart is like a 'Gunks 5.3 and that the West Ridge of Forbidden is like a 'Gunks 5.0. We all think these are dumb apples-to-kiwi fruit comparisons. I don't think being solid on 'Gunks 5.3 prepares you to climb Stuart. I've never been there, but a quick look shows an awful lot of low-fifth class routes. If you guys really know the difference between 5.2 and 5.3, then yes, I'd say you do something different from us over here. Washington 5.0-5.5 is all low-fifth to me. Yes, if the hardest pitch on Stuart's easy N Ridge were magically teleported to New York within walking distance of a parking lot, it would probably wind up with a lower grade. No, I do not think "the guidebooks are wildly imprecise." It's rare that I encounter a case where I think the book is more than a letter-grade off. When you grade an alpine route by the hardest single move on it, it's obvious that you're going to end up with something that is overall easier than a crag route at the same grade. I think it's also obvious that on an alpine route there are a hundred other factors that can make the route seem easier or harder than what the book says. That is the nature of alpine climbing. Yes you're getting flamed. You asked for it!

As a matter of fact, if you enter "5.9" in babelfish and select Gunks->PNW translation, it spits out "5.4". So I take back what I said before. Hell with all his hardcore 'Gunks training he could probably hop right on Liberty Crack. Babelfish says it's only a 5.11.

Yes. Do that.

The whole problem here is that you have to check your backpack at the front desk?

Sounds like n00b epic.

I did it back in my early days of climbing, I think it took us 14 hours. We moved pretty quick on the way up, but did take a nap at the base of the summit pyramid.

I was there two weeks ago. Conditions were dirty.

Wow, those sure do look exactly like C4s.

Does the 5.10- on TS compare closely with the bonus pitch on SR? How is that 5.11a Superfly pitch, is it straight-up friction? I'd doubt my ability to pull friction moves that are that hard...

The venue may have changed, but spray is eminently trad.

Shit, $110 each? Petzls are real nice.

Yeah, that Bachar/Yerian route? Total sport climb dude. You'll notice I never mentioned sport in my post, dude. Bolted climbs are not trad IMHO, regardless of whether they are ground-up, onsight, and bolted by hand from hooks or rappel bolted with a Hilti. If your trad defn is different then post it and let the discussion continue. This is exactly the point I think is up for debate. People typically try to think of climbing as divided between sport and trad. Something has to budge because neither the Grand Wall nor Dreamer is a sport route. I wouldn't even call Silent Running a sport route. Infinite Bliss is no sport route. I don't think that is debateable. But if you argue they aren't trad routes either... what are they? I think that a climb establshed ground-up, bolted on lead and by hand can qualify to be called trad. "Trad" means "traditional" right? What is the tradition? When was the term invented? I feel that it would be harder to get more "traditional" than some of the hard lines put up in Yosemite in the 60s, for example. There are more than a few bolt ladders on those. To me the essence of trad is not the type of protection used, but the spirit required. For once I may find myself agreeing with Pink.

I do not believe that only three people wish to vote in this very important poll.

Why were they build like that? Do you get instructions when you buy them? Can you even buy them anymore?

Silent Running is a very fun route! It is really cool to feel yourself getting more and more comfortable trusting your feet on friction. Nick placed a #3 on the last pitch, but it could have been mostly to prove that he could. Does anyone know why the climb doesn't keep going past the bonus pitch? Just curious, it seemed like it would be short to get to the top. Now I want to check out Total Soul. Anyone know how it compares?

Which is more trad?

Yes, trailing a second rope. Pretty necessary in aid climbing anyway, althought this probably isn't a great aid harness. Tying a cord would mess up the waistband, the webbing would bunch up. I also hang my chalk bag from it, which is apparently frowned upon by gym rats, which makes me enjoy it more.

Oh Snap! Whoa there, learning from Fender made me the gumby I am today, and I am grateful. I heard Donini tapes at IC. Slander? (now libel?) At any rate, this is not a tape-is-aid discussion. For one thing, aid is pretty damn trad. For another, you have much more skin from which to bleed, than merely that on your hands.

A commonly voiced opinion, but one I think is mostly spray.

Which is more trad?

I climbed for five years on a $35 Rock Empire harness and thought it was just great the whole time. I still use it in the gym and since it's getting old, I'm thinking about buying another one just for that. For outdoors I've since upgraded to one of the fancy new Arcteryx ones and have to say it's nice. Very light, very comfortable. Kind of expensive. It does not have a real haul loop which is weird to me but it hasn't caused trouble yet. If you need to drop trou, the little catch at the back of the harness is a REAL pain in the ass to fiddle with. It might loosen up with time but for now it sucks. The leg loops on mine are not adjustable which is a slight inconvenience but they make some that aren't like that.

Wow. Love the way he presents the North Norwegian Buttress right next to the Beckey Route. Seems pretty fair, 5.9 and 5.6 are only 3 number grades apart.