counterfeitfake

Absolutely wear a helmet. If he fell far enough to invert, the second piece was a ways down there. Double up your placements, triple them, whatever.

On Flying Circus it would be possible to snag a foot on a ledge and flip. I think practice falls are ridiculous, especially onto trad gear. Aid climbing gives you the experience you're looking for. But if you must practice fall onto trad gear... sew it up. Please. That is the real foolishness of this story.

My second time up R&D I was rusty and overconfident. Going up the short fist crack on P3 (I think?), I blew it and fell backwards. A gold DMM cam caught me. I wound up lying on my back in the little low-angle ditch. Silly. For some reason I remember the second one, falling onto a red ABC Huevo on Clandestine Affair, in Squamish. That one was actually vertical and much more exciting.

I think most would say that is too much excess weight. So you have to make one of the compromises you mention.

They didn't have it at REI. What is up with that? When did it come out?

But it's still true that they don't like cold. You can search around here and the rest of the internet, and find various heat exchanger solutions people have made.

Use chain.

That is very sad. I generally don't like to armchair-speculate. But I can't understand going up there with way the weather has been.

What is the short-axis strength of a 'biner? Isn't it more than 10 kN? Don't you think when a force around 10 kN was applied to a carabiner attached to your soft belay loop, the 'biner would rotate into the long-axis configuration? If anyone has ever caught a falling leader and had the 'biner remain stuck in the short-axis configuration, I want to hear about it.

Another option would be to buy an ice axe that works decently on ice, like a BD Venom, and then buy a single real ice tool (probably with a hammer). If you're climbing snow routes with short semi-technical icy sections this could be good. And you can always buy a matching tool later.

I tried neti. It wasn't very unpleasant but it also didn't do much good.

SUPER FUN and then flipping us the bird... thank you for your contribution.

Nice job, sounds terrifying!

I'm all for sharing stoke... but this is so content-free it's pointless. Don't you have any pictures or stories?

Well... the first one is a nut, and I can't tell what the second one is. Kind of looks like a bolt. It does look like quite a whipper if she peeled off right there!

Since when is gunk desirable?

You can also buy Clint Cummins's book at the store in Index. Or print it out yourself.

I've never used the brakes but I have heard from a lot of people that they make life difficult. They make it hard to rotate the heel piece and also might increase the force needed to release by causing extra friction. I think the breakable leash is the way to go. I have seen plenty of alpine skis go rocketing down slopes despite brakes, I think brakes just don't work very well ever. To the OP, I almost never come out of my Dynafits before I should. When you step in you might need to clean some snow out from under the toe. Otherwise I wonder if there is some misalignment in your toe piece or something? Does everything look cool? Maybe snap your boots into the bindings and check it out thoroughly. If that's all good maybe there's something in your skiing style? I don't know. I have a pretty bad backseat habit and the toes still keep me in. I actually usually ski with the lever flipped up but without ratcheting it up at all. BTW The ONLY way you should be able to release from the binding in tour mode is if you pivot so far forward that the boot toe flips the switch out of touring mode. If you're releasing when in tour mode my guess is you weren't really locked in- you have to pull up pretty hard and make it click four or five times. At least my TLT classics are like this. I always use one finger on the front tab and my thumb on the back tab and pull HARD.

What is gunks?

Technically no, the rope is not designed or rated for this. But some people do it.

Seriously you guys.

Yeah, you can't do it with a sling anchor, really. If the knot comes out you fall to your death. I think the stopper knot idea only works with chain anchors. What you CAN do is clip a biner through whatever the knot is, and then clip the rope back onto itself (around the anchor). Now it just tightens up when weighted, but you can pull the retrieval line to undo it all. Just make sure the whole mess will move properly when you pull the retrieval line.

I... I tried but I don't have a gag for the body of this post. Try to come up with your own.

Well... I think calling canyondweller a wanker there was a little harsh with the info given. I guess maybe Crillz is rock-solid at the grades given but we just don't know it. I am a pretty seasoned trad leader, and RC to BOC is stellar. When climbing it, I was glad that I know how to place gear that will unquestionably hold me if I fall on it. There was gear readily available the whole way. Make your own decision. At Private Idaho, Battered Sandwich seemed like it would be an awkward lead (it was an awkward follow). But if you like weird chimneying bring some big gear and go for it. Magic Fern and Senior Citizens in Space were easily protectable and fun, the latter would be especially casual.

Someone seriously thinks she will be on the ticket? I think that is absurd.