counterfeitfake

I toproped the offwidth to the left of P3 Rattletale last night and got my ass pretty well kicked. Does anybody know what this is called or rated? Is it in Sky Valley Rock?

I always wonder how gear gets "forgotten" especially in the middle of a pitch.

That doesn't work. I don't know the answer.

Listen, fuckers. Generally, the directive "don't be a dick when it's not necessary" is not very controversial. What do you gain by being angry and negative toward everyone? Here the response is, "get a thicker skin!" I don't advocate censorship and I think people should be able to act however they want here. I can take shit-talking just fine and I hate oversensitivity. All the same, you get what you give. This website generally gets the dregs. Recognize that as a sprayer, you have an impact on this.

Where'd you come up with this gem of knowledge? Most good climbers are out climbing.... not sitting in front of a keyboard. A messageboard populated by good climbers would be mostly blank then die because there's nothing posted. you sound like one of those telemarktips douchebags who really just wants to read a blog and fellate someone in the comments section You think most good climbers climb SO MUCH that they never go on the internet? I bet most of the comments in here happen when posters are at work, slacking off. Your argument does not work.

How can you tell the difference between a TDO5 16G and a TDO5 18G without taking the housing apart?

This is the point. Mean-spirited angry people are fostering the culture here that they want. Don't wonder why many good climbers think this place is a joke. Don't wonder about the lack of content. This site does not live up to it's potential and this is the reason. That assholish behavior is relegated to a sub-forum does not change the fact that it part of the board, and part of the culture of the board. This could be a good place to talk about non-climbing-related stuff with people who are climbers. Instead, anything that isn't climbing-related is categorized "spray". In "spray" you are allowed to be a dick. Some posters take great joy in it. I think we'd be better off with a "bickering" corner where kevbone, KKK, raindawg and tvash could all go at it without bringing the rest of us down.

I saw a fixed line on it a while ago and had heard someone cleaned it. So what is the "problem"?

I agree. This forum is largely the same five people bitching back and forth about the same things over and over, and it's pretty stupid. I may not be completely innocent, but I try to keep it constructive most of the time. I really appreciate those who write trip reports, provide good advice, and talk about climbing.

I can't tell if this is a joke or some trick of n00bery and misunderstanding English. But it's funny. To the OP: Why would you buy all this shit, label it, and never use it?

It's been a while since I did it, but I remember Pete Lake to Spectacle Lake being pretty money. Pete Lake is a short hike, 4 miles in, and flat. You can spend the night there, then the next day go on to Spectacle Lake which I think is another 7 miles. On the third day the hike out would be 11 miles, but pretty easy. More info says the vertical gain is 1550 feet (in 18.5 miles, which isn't quite in agreement).

I remember that too, in hindsight I don't know why any of us bought the "mandatory tyrolean traverse" business.

nice

KEVBONE! Probably not. There is a rap route. Look at the topo!!

If I bring a 60 meter rope... and your route has 30 meter pitches... I RAP YOUR ROUTE.

Given how often I see people on the UTW who aren't climbing Green Drag-on or Town Crier or Davis-Holland, I think this is unlikely to be a problem. Besides, there are many routes where rapping the route is the standard descent.

Thanks Blake, yeah I had seen the rap option, but wasn't positive about where Golden Road was and didn't bring the picture. I liked walking off anyway, we were wrung out enough that rapping would have been stressful. I really thought about the roof to start P3, it didn't look very hard but it did look unprotectable. Doubtful.

Coming down from the Tooth, along the cat track between Source Lake and Alpental, I found a headlamp. If it's yours I'd be glad to return it.

Trip: Index - Davis-Holland to Lovin' Arms Date: 6/28/2008 Trip Report: As Jared points out, hand jams are hard when you're sweating, but if you don't bring enough water you'll eventually dry out. My hope for this summer has been to push my climbing into some new grades and become less intimidated by hard routes. My buddy jaredvg is on the same mission. Having recently led my first 5.10a at Index, what better way to push it than embark on a 6-pitch 5.10c? And just to ensure we weren't going to wuss out partway up, how about we don't bring along enough rope to retreat? Sounds good. We met at the smokestack in Monroe* around 9 am, and it was already hot. After stopping for a quick bite from the Sultan Bakery, we were packing up in the Index LTW parking lot. The approach to the UTW was short but steep, and it was hot, and we were sweaty by the time we got to the base of the route. We were also both nervous about what we knew would be one of the toughtest climbs we'd ever done, but we knew we had it in us and just had to get moving. Davis-Holland: We found there was a group above us, but a quick assessment showed that they were moving plenty quick to not be an issue for us. We threw rock paper scissors for first lead, and I got it. P1- 90 feet of kind-of-awkward 5.9 gives way to 4th class grass. I couldn't find my chalk bag so we were sharing one, and I felt bad for Jared sliding out of the crack on sweaty hand jams. P2- The business starts. Jared leads up off the anchors into the steep thin-hands dihedral above. It continues to be hot and the jams continue to be greasy. This pitch is excellent, very sustained and seemed like some of the hardest climbing on the route. There's even a surprise little bit of offwidth just before the anchor. P3- The "crux". Right off the belay we were confused- there is a bolt around the corner to left, in what looks like tricky face climbing terrain, before you get some decent holds in a corner and up into a grassy right-facing corner. I could see the crux above but how to get there? I deliberated a long time before committing to the face moves. They felt hard and I was stressed out, but it would be easier if I did it again. About 40 more feet up the nice easy corner and you're at the 5.10c crux of the route. It's super unintimidating. You get to stand in a solid stem and look up at it, and there's a very good fixed nut you can clip before really committing to the move. Then if you're tall like me, a little footwork and a reach or two solves it. I was shocked by how simple it was; your mileage may vary. Easy terrain above and the anchors finishes Davis-Holland. Lovin' Arms: It didn't make sense, but we had both been really fixated on the lower 3 pitches of DH and not paying much attention to what was above. We had also elected to not bring a topo with us, which I KNOW is foolish... P1- Standing at the anchors we really didn't know what to do. It seems LA gets way less traffic than DH, as there was nothing but lichen above. I had told Jared that this section was "I think like 5.8 or something." After a little wandering back and forth and looking up he was freaking out. I would have been too. After getting a little gear in, Jared sucked it up and went. It worked. We would look at the topo upon returning to the car, and find it was supposedly 5.10b. Nice. After the sketchiness you get into a nice hand crack, and then a mossy chimney with all kinds of options. The final moves to the anchors felt pretty hard on toprope but I believe I was just distracted. Jared was hugely relieved after the stressful lead, and was happily chatting away. Meanwhile I was thrutching on toprope, sweaty and tired, and thinking about the next pitch I had to tackle. P2- The original route goes right off the anchor, to a bolt which is the single point of aid used by the FA. Or it goes free at 5.11c. I didn't like either idea and decided to try the high traverse, which goes farther up the chimney and then rightward to gain the little corner system you follow up farther. The hand traverse to get there was awesome and you get a nice tiny ledge to stand on while you contemplate what is above. It looks thin and tricky but really isn't very bad, as you climb ample pro and handholds present themselves. Reaching to some jugs and traversing, then mantling a ledge brings you to the anchors. P3- Now I was glad I was done leading, and Jared got the stress of the final pitch. We remembered the topo had one bolt above, and we saw it, but for some reason we'd been guessing some more bolts had been added. Not so. There is "enough" pro but it's not a trivial pitch. Jared described it as "lots of disappointing handholds." The face is kind of a quartzy rock with a lot of little edges, but many of them are downsloping. Overall not so bad, but not trivial. You can escape left on a ledge, which we did, or you can continue another 20 feet up the face, which we should have done. Solid ground, FINALLY! We looked at the time and it was around 4:30. We had been pretty slow, but not abysmally so. Time for the summit shot and to do the walk-off. The trail is easy to find, just go to the big dirt road, follow it down to the cable fence, and turn left. I don't remember ever being so dehydrated before. When we got to the base of the wall to retrieve our packs, we decided to chance taking a drink from the dripping waterfall. So far, so good. A half hour later we were cooling our feet in the river and drinking gatorade and beer. This combo of two routes is excellent. The climbing is varied and you get to do a little of everything. It is also very sustained, every pitch has something hard about it. Definitely the hardest multipitch I've done and a good way to get summer properly underway. * We've been parking at the smokestack in Monroe for a long time. Very recently, unbeknownst to us, "NO PARKING" signs were put up. We came back to find Jared's car had been towed, and it cost him $400 to get it out of impound. Ouch. Learn from our mistake. Gear Notes: Nuts, TCUs, double set of C4s to #2, one #3. Would have been nice to have: - more water - more chalk - a topo Approach Notes: Trail is steep and always a little harder than I expect.

Oh My God

If you descend the North Dome Gulley, be prepared.

Hahaha... I don't!

So HOW did you do the mantle? I am probably in awe of you. I understand what you're saying. Even so, with two practice runs I almost feel like I could lead it now. With the A0 finish. It's short and bolted, after all. Oh yeah, the bottom part is pretty hard too...

DON'T FEED THE TROLLS PEOPLE

Come on Kevbone, I say it right there AND provide a link to a topo.