counterfeitfake

Godzilla? Pretend you're leading as you follow it, then lead it, it's really not a bad lead. Look for rests from which to place gear. Toxic Shock is a great 5.9. Follow Breakfast of Champions. Lead the first 2 pitches of GM and follow the third pitch of Heart of the Country. Libra crack isn't exactly fair, the start of that one is really thin and hard. Really, every route is different, there is no one ten that you can follow to be prepared for all nines. Just lead a route you have followed already so you are more comfortable with it.

I also think it's worth mentioning that falls as severe as those in the test are nearly impossible in the real world.

I don't see the need to extend your rappel device, and don't really get what you're asking. But I think you're taking the wrong message away from that video, the message is just that you should not fall directly onto a sling. I often use a Metolius PAS and make an effort to keep it tight as long as I'm anchored in.

I watched the video and didn't really see anything that was new, here is what I got from it: - Nylon is not very elastic. - Dyneema is even less elastic. - Tying a knot in Dyneema halves it's strength (I believe similar is true with nylon). - If you anchor in with either of these inelastic materials, you SHOULD NOT put yourself in a position to fall upon the anchor. Even falling 2 feet can put a huge amount of force on the system. - All the forces at which slings failed this test are above the point where pro and human bodies start to break.

Here's a picture that shows how it could go wrong: http://www.petzl.com/us/node/9886 This looks like fundamentally the same problem with clipping a biner into the end of a daisy chain as well as one of the bar-tacked loops.

Where do you get writeups like this?

Toproping in the seracs is a great idea. I'd wait a little while for some more snow to melt, once the holes are all open you can walk around pretty safely. I have found conditions pretty good by late July. Make sure you know how to build a really good anchor and then have fun.

Burgundy Spire would be great, but the snow on the approach can be pretty hard depending on the weather. Maybe give a crash course in crampons. Or, kick steps the evening before.

sweet blog

I think I've got a decent handle on how to judge weather forecasts in the US. How do you guess what the weather is going to be in Squamish? Enviro Canada and weather.ca have wildly different takes on the coming weekend.

Hike up from the top of Gorilla, and climb Plum Pudding! Very fun 5.9 lieback corner. Maybe like Sr. Citizens but steeper. Ah shit, Cummins says Plum Pudding is 10a. http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/index/middle.gif vs http://mountainproject.com/v/washington/index_town_walls/mid_wall/106386419 Can 5.10a feel like 5.9?? Don't ask me, I've never even climbed at Index.

...because you can't wait to gtf off the mountain. I was in pretty good shape, Rainier was my first high climb, I seem to recall leaving around midnight, summitting around 7am, getting back to Muir around 1pm, getting back to the cars around 5pm. The hike down from Muir was pretty brutal.

hahahaha... no you're right I've never climbed at Index. Carry on.

if being right on the internet is wrong, i don't want to be right

I WOULD say it's as hard as the crux of Davis-Holland. Are you high? You said there are a couple 5.9 moves. You voted 5.9+ for it on Mountainproject. Now, you say it was a 10b but you'll give it a 10a? What the hell.

NOOOO BOLTS = SPORT DUH ...are you for real? Thanks for the phone number beta.

Yeah, kind of funny. I thought ratings had to do with the hardest move, not the length. There was definitely a 5.9 move or two. ... so it's a 5.9 then? Good. (however, route grades OFTEN take into consideration how sustained the difficulties are) Anyway, the CURRENT MOUNTAINPROJECT CONSENSUS is 5.9! STAY TUNED FOR MORE EXCITING ROUTE GRADING DEVELOPMENTS!

Them is a good route. Much easier than Godzilla. Easier than Princely. Short.

lol this columbia gorge forum is so great

Just threw down $300. Index is the best crag we've got!

I think it's awesome that you'd charge into the unknown like this with no planned option for retreat, on a cold windy day no less. And bailing INTO Epinephrine is incredible and funny. My hat is off to you!

aw jesus

Ha, when I was up there it actually looked like this. Nice job! I wonder if you actually climbed the 5.4 pitch mentioned here? BOLD! I agree the routefinding in that area is difficult for some reason, and there isn't a ton of good beta. For anyone interested in the traverse, I put together the best info I could at mountainproject.

oooookay.

I am pretty sure it's the 3rd pitch, although they are relatively short pitches. It should be noted that access to it can be had by following GM which keeps the entire climb moderate. Yes, third pitch. You mean the part where it's not steep anymore? Up to that point it's thin hands? Yeah, Rattletale really depends on your hand size, it's wide for me too and my hand gets torn up at the top. But, if you can only do a jam at one specific width, you aren't much of a crack climber, so here's to practice. I'm trying to think of other great hand cracks... the ones that are obvious to me have been named. Breakfast of Champions deserves mention although the straight-up hand jamming doesn't last too long. Oh! Of course, Thin Fingers has a very good hand jamming section. Jam Exam is a great crack that requires some versatility. Karate Crack is SWEET although I think a lot of it is just finding constrictions and using your hand as a chock.