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counterfeitfake

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Everything posted by counterfeitfake

  1. Damn, is that half a WRX? Ice on rock good, ice on road bad.
  2. Do you want to really ski, or just approach climbs? Skiing in mountaineering boots is extremely hard and probably not at all fun. Climbing moderate snow and ice in randonnee boots is not too bad.
  3. I've been there in late December/Early January. Sure, it is worth the trip. The weather was cool in the morning and at night, and warm during the day. The climbing is almost 100% bolted, and there are lots of long multipitch routes. From one of the nearby campgrounds it's about a 15 minute walk to the first crags. You can also rent a room at one of these places, and there are several little restaurants nearby so if you don't want to cook for yourself you don't have to. I'd say it's easy to find partners there if you're friendly, the campgrounds all have a good social scene going on. I flew to Austin and took a bus to Monterrey, this is NOT the best way to get there. I don't recommend it at all, it saves on airfare but is not worth the time and headache. I would fly into Monterrey. From there you take a bus for a few hours, to Hidalgo I believe, and from the center of town you can take a taxi to one of the campgrounds, or you could make the walk in under an hour.
  4. Where do you live?
  5. I just bought a new pair of Vipers. They came with a micro hammer and micro adze. I'm looking for opinions from people who have used them: How much harder is it to drive a piton with the micro hammer? How much harder is it to chop ice with the micro adze? I've seen it argued (dane?) that you don't need an adze... I am probably more concerned about the hammer anyway. I've also seen some people claim that the tools swing better with the full-size hammer.
  6. I have heard of this. Were there bolts for pro too, or no? That would have been gnar as fuck.
  7. Dude.. layback like 15 ft and there is a good foot edge out left... stem off that and start jamming. Its tight hands but there are nice contrictions. I think we have the same idea and I was just guessing on the height. But laybacking on the sword pitch above the pillar and Perry's wide crack above that seems nearly mandatory. Not to mention the Sail Flake! Once I'd climbed that route and made it back down to the ground, my buddy said to me over a beer, "Dude... there's a lot of laybacking on that route."
  8. yeah all they need to do is like drive a truck over to the nearest oil well and fill 'er up why does it cost so much
  9. gotta go with donny on this one. But... that's Walter.
  10. You obviously have not been paying any attention. Look around, info is very easy to find.
  11. As I said elsewhere, the approach to GGB is far worse than it was a few years ago. I agree Dreamer is as good or better than Outer Space. I think it is a lot harder though. The warning about the rope-eating flake is very apt. To get down, I suggest you just move climber's right and rap down Safe Sex.
  12. Yeah, those panos are AWESOME. Thanks for making them!
  13. Just in case people reading this don't know any better... I climb at Edgeworks and disagree that it is a "bouldering gym". I think at least 3/4 of the space in there is dedicated to roped climbing, with a fairly healthy lead climbing section. The routesetting is good, and if you're in the neighborhood you should check it out.
  14. Beacon Rock sits atop an intersection of several of the spray lines that crisscross the earth's surface.
  15. Before I had ever been up Dragontail, I had read a lot about potentially rapping for the descent. Once I actually reached the summit I didn't understand at all. It was strictly a walk-off for me. Although in late season it is probably pretty icy. I'd imagine raps are sketch since few do them.
  16. I assumed thirty years of marriage would arm one with an answer to this question, but you surely know better than I do.
  17. I can't believe your approach to smoothing things over with your wife is to buy her a treadmill.
  18. Jason is a professional guide and a really helpful guy. Let's not discourage him from being helpful on this forum by acting like dicks to him.
  19. I just think it's pretty funny that you wankers are going on and on about how real climbers don't use tape, when our resident hardmen just tape up and go send. Less spray, more action.
  20. Is this the rope that disintegrates on contact with rock? I thought you could not return climbing equipment to REI?
  21. Yeah, that looks fine to me. I think the figure eight isn't really even necessary. I don't fully get what the manual says but selkirk's take on it seems reasonable. Crillz has a good point on using the rope, too.
  22. You could probably rip that bolt hanger apart with your bare hands.
  23. So who's going to break the news to these guys?
  24. I don't understand exactly what you're describing, maybe you could take a photo or draw a picture. What do you mean by "feed each end around a tree"? What is the figure 8 for? It's probably fine though.
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